Do these have any value to someone?
- Thread starter 1930artdeco
- Start date
FWIW: I had a 1930 shell with a split that I had welded up (I am most assuredly NOT a welder!). Based upon CWPASADENA's experience, my welder used 308 TIG rod and it ended up looking great. (There is a thread from 2023 on this topic.)
I agree, do not toss those radiator shells. At a minimum $25 each at swap meets. I've seen pristine originals go for $300+.
I agree, do not toss those radiator shells. At a minimum $25 each at swap meets. I've seen pristine originals go for $300+.
Brad in Germany
Well-known member
Those are way cool! With the Snap-on vanity and the droplight pendant lamps, definitely bathrooms fit for any shop.How about making some bathroom mirror frames:
....or like this one with LED lighting around the inside:
Brad in Maryland
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Fullraceflathead
Well-known member
They are definitely worth saving They're more than good enough for a daily driver!!!
1930artdeco
Well-known member
I do have a 31 that is missing the top and bottom portions that I am probably going to cut up and practice my tig/SS skills.
Mike
Mike
katy
Well-known member
Bigsnapper43
Senior Member
Commercial kitchen people repair stainless everyday. They have the knowledge and expertise to repair and dress up a shell.
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
Dairy and brewery mechanical contractors would have very good stainless TIG welders, too.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Here is the trick to repairing. These were made of a low-grade stainless, and most stainless Tig wire will show up as discolored from the surrounding areas of the Shell. Find a damaged Shell to use as a sacrificial donor and cut that Shell into narrow strips to be used as filler wire. Once welded and metalfinished, the repair will almost be unnoticable.
Clamping and fixturing are your next issue(s) that you need to overcome. The reason they cracked in the first place is because the stamping process during manufacturing caused stress. Years later when they are stress-cracked, their shape has now been relaxed. Welding the crack(s) in the state the Shell is in now only adds or creates more tension or stress for the Shell which generally causes them to re-crack. Be aware of this.
Clamping and fixturing are your next issue(s) that you need to overcome. The reason they cracked in the first place is because the stamping process during manufacturing caused stress. Years later when they are stress-cracked, their shape has now been relaxed. Welding the crack(s) in the state the Shell is in now only adds or creates more tension or stress for the Shell which generally causes them to re-crack. Be aware of this.
1930artdeco
Well-known member
Brent, is there a way to remove the discoloration from a stainless weld on these shells? My good shell that I Want to use was welded down at the bottom-great weld-but there is the usual heat discoloration.
Mike
Mike
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
The welders at the dairy equipment company I worked for usually buffed it off (thicker metal, though) or had a commercial product that brushed on and I guess rinsed off for the discoloration. Welding supply companies might carry it.
There is a product called “Blue-Job” (honest! See attachment) that is used for removing heat blue from motorcycle pipes. I think I got it at a Harley dealer many years ago. I frankly don’t remember it working too well, though. I think it’s intended for use on chrome, and the pipes I had were stainless (and not Harley).
Attachments
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Mike, is the discoloration actually heat related or is it metal differences??