Wheel Balancing Beads-History

Bob Bidonde

Bob Bidonde

Well-known member
I am considering using beads to balance the wheels in my Model A's. Has there been any negatives by those using the beads after several thousands of miles of driving?
 
A couple of times when I was checking pressure a bead got stuck in the Schrader Valve, causing it to leek. Easy fix but annoying, blow air thru the valve. IIRC the valve was at the bottom of the tire when I checked it.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
I am considering using beads to balance the wheels in my Model A's. Has there been any negatives by those using the beads after several thousands of miles of driving?
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Used in all my Model A Tires for years no problems!!Look up balance beads google to read history of:May truckers and motorcycles use them. I use a engraving tool vibration against the tube while pouring in beads.
 
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As much as I believe in using the beads, I have never been able to successfully place them in the tubes.

I have a HF tire balancer and use stick-on weights only on the inside.
 
Added 4oz to my car tubes and the spares, have had no issues, I was skeptical but went for it. I have radial 21" tires, tire balance is very good. I did have to ream the valve stems per the instructions to get the beads in. Decided if they didn't work, I would go with lead wound onto the spokes. But, two thumbs up. Also, I haven't had my car over 55. So don't know how they do at higher speeds.
 
Gary, Good idea using a ********. I don't have the engraving tool but will try my electric tooth brush.
 
I tried balancing beads when I replaced tires last. I used a hand orbital sander to vibrate them in. Once I got them in, the vibration was worse than no beads at all. I deemed the gamble with beads to be a loss. So I ended up installing four new tubes and then balancing using the "loosen the front hub nut a bit and find the heavy spot" method.
 
This has worked well for me to get the beads in.

Mount the wheel on the car.
Using a jack lower the tire down to the ground allowing the tire to squish down forcing air out of the valve stem. Once the air has quit flowing out attach the tube and feed beads in until they stop flowing.
Then jack up the tire a bit causing air (and beads) to be pulled in.
Keep feeding in beads until it stops again.
Jack the tire up a bit more... repeat...

You may need to disconnect the tube and lower the tire back down to repeat the process until all the beads are in.

I've ran with beads for several years now with no problems.
 
Will they work with original valve stems or just the modern rubber ones? Or should I add them when I cut rubber stem off and before I add the washer and valve stem?

Mike
 
The beads depend on the inside of the tire/tube being completely concentric. Turn the wheels/tires over to observe whether they are concentric before trying to use the beads.

Above the critical speed the heavy part of the tire revolves at a smaller radius than the light part causing the beads to migrate to the light part of the tire. Consult your college text book on dynamics.
 
JayJay said:
So I ended up installing four new tubes and then balancing using the "loosen the front hub nut a bit and find the heavy spot" method.
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If the wheel bearings are adjusted properly, you shouldn't have to "loosen the front hub nut a bit".
 
katy said:
If the wheel bearings are adjusted properly, you shouldn't have to "loosen the front hub nut a bit".
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I set the bearings with just a hair of preload, been doing it that way as long as I've adjusted bearings. Better a hair snug than a hair loose.
 
Balancing beads are unnecessary expense I feel,most times with quality tires and wheels balance can be achieved by rotating the tire on the rim.
Most of you are afraid to drive much over 35 and balance beads don’t start finding the place to congregate until higher speeds.
moisture in your air it say can cause clumping— how many of your air compressor setups have dedicated moisture removal system?
Balance beads won’t correct dynamic imbalance just work at correcting static conditions.
 
I've tried beads. In my opinion the beads are worthless. I can run my roadster 50-55mph on 21" tires with no shakes, shimmies or vibrations...smoooth (three o's). No weights or beads just tires and tubes. Tires wear even, no flat spots, cupping or anything like that. I keep them rotated. I'm lucky however, to get 10,000 miles out of a set of Firestones, beads or no beads.
 
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On the advice of my good friend Ted Kafer, I have decided to try the balancing beads. They are a pain to get down the valve stems but I discovered a few tricks.


  1. Install the beads with the tire off the ground so that it can be rotated.
  2. Pouring the beads down the valve stem with the stem vertical does not work because they just get jammed up.
  3. The beads just be blown into the stem using the air in the squeeze bottle.
  4. A combination of blowing and sucking keeps the stem clear.
  5. Just a few beads at a time in the plastic tube works best.
  6. The stem located so that it is slightly down hill works best. Experiment with the stem angle by rotating the tire slightly.
  7. The tire can be rotated so that the outlet of the stem is pointed down to clear a jam. Squeeze and relax the bottle in this position to clear a jam. Blow and suck.
  8. Heating the plastic tube on the ends with a heat gun or flame allows it to expand to fit the stem and bottle and makes a better seal.
  9. The electric tooth brush did not work. Hitting it with a screwdriver helped but using the air to blow a few beads at a time worked best for me.
  10. It takes a long time. Be patient. Just a few beads at a time.

Here is a video that shows how the beads distribute themselves inside the tire. That starts about 4:50 into the video. It is interesting to see how the tire flexes as it rotate to the road: www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZQXPLfOPXc
 
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Kurt in NJ said:
Balancing beads are unnecessary expense I feel, most times with quality tires and wheels balance can be achieved by rotating the tire on the rim.
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Ah, but then you lose "points". The brand and stem should be at the top of the spare tire.

That said, that is exactly what I did when I mounted my American Classic Radials and they are almost spot on.

nkaminar said:
TAbove the critical speed the heavy part of the tire revolves at a smaller radius than the light part causing the beads to migrate to the light part of the tire.
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OK, someone is going to have to 'splain that one to me. How can the heavy part rotate at a smaller radius then the light part on a tire??
 
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