Rear Hub "safeties" Installation

D

Don W/Norfolk

Senior Member
I've decided to install "safeties" on my rear hubs. Since they did not come with instructions, I've a simple question.
Must I remove the brake drums to install them?
TIA,
dw
 
If you're talking of the U shaped brackets that fit over the edge of the drum and attach to the wheel cylinder bolts, then No.
If you are talking about the type that fit around the hub and need a ring welding to the hub, then Yes.
 
What you may find is that they may rub on your particular brake drums a bit. I usually have to "clearance them" with a rotary file such that they are in the correct place to do their job (if ever needed), but don't rub and make horrible noises on my brake drums.

Also, make sure you use Grade 5 or better bolts and that they are LONGER than stock to make up for the added thickness of the bracket/device.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
What you may find is that they may rub on your particular brake drums a bit. I usually have to "clearance them" with a rotary file such that they are in the correct place to do their job (if ever needed), but don't rub and make horrible noises on my brake drums.

Also, make sure you use Grade 5 or better bolts and that they are LONGER than stock to make up for the added thickness of the bracket/device.
Click to expand...

Same experience for me. When I put them back on now, I snug each bolt up while holding the bracket up and away from the drum. Look at the gap and position using a small pry bar or screwdriver, then do the final tightening. I have star lock washers which often tend to twist the bracket CW when tightening. Spin the drum to check that you have clearance.
 
Here's some home made that bolt on. Rear drums are MT Products.
Car is 40 Ford. Steel is 1/4 inch thick. I first made a wooden mock up - then steel.
Follow same install techniques as B&S and Glennpm
 

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That’s a nice setup 19Fordy! Are those welded together? They almost look like they are forged, or cast.
 
Ralph: Not cast or forged. The "u" shaped piece that bolts to the backing plate wheel cylinder holes is made of 1/4 in. thick mild steel. You saw it out and file contours to fit. The "lip" piece that overhangs the drum is made of 1/8 inch x 1/2 mild steel and is cut and filed to match contour needed. Mine is 7/16 in. wide. The steel piece that fits between the top of the "u" shaped piece and the "lip" piece is mild steel sawed out and curved to fit depending on width of drum.

The 3 pieces are then tack welded together for a trial fit - then finish welded. I used a MIG welder. Then grind and file retainer until it is nice and smooth. Three coats of paint and you are good to go.

PS: I first made several wooden test patterns.
 

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19Fordy said:
Ralph: Not cast or forged. The "u" shaped piece that bolts to the backing plate wheel cylinder holes is made of 1/4 in. thick mild steel. You saw it out and file contours to fit. The "lip" piece that overhangs the drum is made of 1/8 inch x 1/2 mild steel and is cut and filed to match contour needed. Mine is 7/16 in. wide. The steel piece that fits between the top of the "u" shaped piece and the "lip" piece is mild steel sawed out and curved to fit depending on width of drum.

The 3 pieces are then tack welded together for a trial fit - then finish welded. I used a MIG welder. Then grind and file retainer until it is nice and smooth. Three coats of paint and you are good to go.

PS: I first made several wooden test patterns.
Click to expand...
587396


587398
 
Wooden patterns have been sold for postage.


Just a final note. I still have the wooden pattern shown in the photos. If anyone would like them , they are yours for the cost of postage.
 
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