Need a new 12V starter for my 59AB

38bill

38bill

Well-known member
So the rear plate in my existing 12V starter fractured in 3 places where the shaft goes through it. It looks like there is additional damage where the shaft wobbled around so I'm in need of a new starter. I'm not really finding much and what is offered seems to be questionable. Can anyone suggest a replacement? Thanks.
 
Got mine at Joe's. I believe that Mac Van Pelt also carries them. Or did when I was in the market for one.
 
i removed the new generic 12v starter that was in my 1941 passenger car when purchased. i pulled it off because the previous owner installed it, and i'm guessing here, because they thought it was would work with their cobbled together 8v system they installed. possibly because they though it would fix an imagined starting problem (real problem was burnt out points and condenser caused by the 8v battery that they had installed). the whole starting system had to eventually be replaced.

when removing it the stator was removed from the housing along with the new bendix. all the parts were saved and you can have it...gratis. pm me for details if you want it.

this offer is extended to the OP only.
 
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This is what I did:

"Default Re: Has anybody here bought this starter?
Here is a post from Ronnie with a comment from me. This works and is a lot cheaper than 185 bucks. Ed

"Take your flathead starter apart. Keep the long through-bolts and end plate with the armature and bendix. Turn the armature if required. Don't under-cut the copper bars on armature. Use the starter from 332, 352, 360, 390 or 406 c.i. Ford FE engines as the conversion starter. Disassemble the FE starter. Keep the end plate with brushes and case with field coils. Check the bushing in the end plate and replace if necessary. The wire size and number of windings on the FE and flathead armatures and they are the same.

Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.

You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself."

This works. I have done this for two 12 volt starter conversions. On the last one I got a rebuilt starter from O'Reilly's to use the case. It was for a 1964 Ford Galaxy; 390 cu in. engine. The part # is 03-0214 and the line is ULT. Cost was $39.99 plus 20 bucks for the core. So, for 60 bucks, you can have a 12 volt starter that works great.
Ed"
 
glennpm said:
This is what I did:

"Default Re: Has anybody here bought this starter?
Here is a post from Ronnie with a comment from me. This works and is a lot cheaper than 185 bucks. Ed

"Take your flathead starter apart. Keep the long through-bolts and end plate with the armature and bendix. Turn the armature if required. Don't under-cut the copper bars on armature. Use the starter from 332, 352, 360, 390 or 406 c.i. Ford FE engines as the conversion starter. Disassemble the FE starter. Keep the end plate with brushes and case with field coils. Check the bushing in the end plate and replace if necessary. The wire size and number of windings on the FE and flathead armatures and they are the same.

Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.

You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself."

This works. I have done this for two 12 volt starter conversions. On the last one I got a rebuilt starter from O'Reilly's to use the case. It was for a 1964 Ford Galaxy; 390 cu in. engine. The part # is 03-0214 and the line is ULT. Cost was $39.99 plus 20 bucks for the core. So, for 60 bucks, you can have a 12 volt starter that works great.
Ed"
Click to expand...

what I did years ago. also bought a couple of spare bendix springs.
 
Yep, I did the 12V conversion from a late starter as well. I like the early style Bendix - have had very few problems with them. Even when I used to run a 6V starter on 12V, never broke a Bendix spring (maybe I was lucky!).
 
I've done the same conversion for starters using Y block 12V units as my donors and used early GM truck generators to convert generators to 12V. All work really well and can be done for under $100 without a core. That said, rebuilt GM generators have jumped in price as they get harder to source.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I like the early style Bendix - have had very few problems with them. Even when I used to run a 6V starter on 12V, never broke a Bendix spring (maybe I was lucky!).
Click to expand...

Same experience for me. When I changed to the Ford FE starter, I put on the new type. Lasted about two years and the Bendix was broken. I put a good original type in it's place and have had no more problems.

Nice thread with photos from Jim

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211141&highlight=converting+starter+12v
 
@glennpm Thanks for posting the link for the starter conversion. I freshened up my original 6V starter years ago and ended up converting my truck to 12 V. The starter is still 6 V and working but I should build one of these to have on hand.

Scott in AZ.
 
Thanks the ideas. I have a couple of starters and I think I will try to put one good one together.

Any good hints on dealing with getting the armature and brushes installed?
 
Yes I do and did this,

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1689620&postcount=28

"The brush springs and holding the brushes back was a little tricky. I found that if pulled the springs back with my scribe hook toward the corner of the brush guide/retainer, that it would hold the brushes out and in place. After doing this and going to put the long bolts in, I found that the end plate holes weren't drilled out for my 5/16" threaded end original bolts, just 1/4". So pulled the FE case again and drilled the two end plate holes out.

It works great and turns over real good without too high an RPM like it did with the 6volt shoes. I think people that had trouble were using the FE armature and not the original flathead one."

378184


378185
 
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