New head gasket fault

5

56thunderbird

Junior Member
Had to replace Best head gasket on 1930A as it started to weep after 4000 miles. On removal the gasket had delaminated at rear corner. Luckily I had a brand new Best gasket on the shelf. Opening it up I discovered that it has also delaminated without ever being out of the box. Photos are of this new gasket. Is this common with Best gaskets and is there anything I can do to make this new one useable?
 

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Failing all else, you might try using one of those high temperature gasket sealers. I use a copper based one. Spray all surfaces in the delaminated area, then the top of the block, head and both surfaces of the gasket following the instructions. I think you will have a good chance of success.
Good luck and pls keep us informed.
 
Just an addition to Syncro909's post...I too recommend a copper spray sealer..BUT do not spray it onto the engine block unless you can tape it off very well. Any over-spray of the copper spray sealer is a bear to remove once it dries. I hang my gaskets from a string and spray both sides...let it dry a bit and then install.



I installed a Snyder's 6.1:1 head with a BEST gasket last year..put about 700 miles on it and no problems... yet. If you are replacing the gasket anyway...a jump to a "Police Head" or the 6.1:1 gives an enormous boost in performance...just a suggestion while you are already removing the head anyway.
 
I have had the best luck with the Best gasket #509G which is a graphite gasket. No leaks after many many miles. I spray both sides of the gasket with the copper gasket sealer.
 
From my experience successful head gasket life can be attributed to 4 things:


1. Having block and head surfaces that are machined flat with no more that a 0.002 gap.
2. Using a premium head gasket. I too like the Best 509G (graphite) with copper gasket sealer. They can be a real bugger to remove later, that's how good they seal.
3. Using new head studs and nuts. I like ARP brand head studs and have used them in small block Ford drag racing engines for a very long time. If you get head studs from a vendor you probably won't know who made them or how much stretch they will have.
4. Following a torquing and re-torquing regimen. My initial torque steps using the widely published Model A torque pattern are 25lb-ft, 35lb-ft, 45lb-ft and lastly 55lb-ft. Then, after the next four engine warming cycles I check them all again. And finally, I check them all again every time I change engine oil. At the same time I check all manifold stud nuts.
 
Last edited:
BButturff said:
From my experience successful head gasket life can be attributed to 4 things:


1. Having block and head surfaces that are machined flat with no more that a 0.002 gap.
2. Using a premium head gasket. I too like the Best 509G (graphite) with copper gasket sealer. They can be a real bugger to remove later, that's how good they seal.
3. Using new head studs and nuts. I like ARP brand head studs and have used them in small block Ford drag racing engines for a very long time. If you get head studs from a vendor you probably won't know who made them or how much stretch they will have.
4. Following a torquing and re-torquing regimen. My initial torque steps using the widely published Model A torque pattern are 25lb-ft, 35lb-ft, 45lb-ft and lastly 55lb-ft. Then, after the next four engine warming cycles I check them all again. And finally, I check them all again every time I change engine oil. At the same time I check all manifold stud nuts.
Click to expand...


One other thing I do while checking head nut torque during oil changes is to remove the distributor. Why not just use one of those new fandangled bendy wrenches to allow access to the head nuts close to the distributor? They're fine, they work perfectly well. But I remove the distributor so I can wipe a small amount of grease on the contact areas with the block to prevent the distributor from seizing in the block. Some day, you or someone like you, will be very happy you did!
 
katy said:
I use nevr-sieze when installing the distributor.
Click to expand...


There's nothing wrong with using an anti-seize product when installing the distributor. I will add that removing the distributor provides me with the opportunity to check/set the point gap, lube the points cam, inspect for distributor bushing play, lube both upper and lower distributor bushings, check distributor drive shaft wear and even test the condenser condition (μF) all from the comfort of a workbench. I've been told I'm a little bit OCD...that is a fair assessment.
 
BButturff said:
From my experience successful head gasket life can be attributed to 4 things:


1. Having block and head surfaces that are machined flat with no more that a 0.002 gap.
2. Using a premium head gasket. I too like the Best 509G (graphite) with copper gasket sealer. They can be a real bugger to remove later, that's how good they seal.
3. Using new head studs and nuts. I like ARP brand head studs and have used them in small block Ford drag racing engines for a very long time. If you get head studs from a vendor you probably won't know who made them or how much stretch they will have.
4. Following a torquing and re-torquing regimen. My initial torque steps using the widely published Model A torque pattern are 25lb-ft, 35lb-ft, 45lb-ft and lastly 55lb-ft. Then, after the next four engine warming cycles I check them all again. And finally, I check them all again every time I change engine oil. At the same time I check all manifold stud nuts.
Click to expand...

All of the above...
 
B Butturff: "I've been told I'm a little bit OCD...that is a fair assessment."

OCD: Often Checking Distributor?
 
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