Yes i will keep the od cable pulled out completely and the toggle off. should be safe that way. im used to driving the '37 3 spd. its more of a granny ****** than the '51 i believe. did you get my pm this morning. Tom.In my opinion, you would be wise to keep the overdrive locked out until you know exactly what you have. I have driven my current '51 for the last 39 years without one; it's not much of a sacrifice.
Farmertom, what color is your new car??
If I'm just driving around with some stop and go, I like to leave the switch off and the od engaged. It puts a little more wear on the brakes because of no engine braking which I like, but a lot less clutch wear and clutching. Saves having the solenoid kicking in and out a lot. I know the roads and don't anticipate a panic stop. Here's a great od manual. https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/TechData/BWOverdriveManual.pdf
If I'm just driving around with some stop and go, I like to leave the switch off and the od engaged. It puts a little more wear on the brakes because of no engine braking which I like, (freewheeling has it's advantages), but a lot less clutch wear and clutching. Saves having the solenoid kicking in and out a lot at the 28mph kick in. I know the roads and don't anticipate a panic stop. Here's a great od manual. https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/TechData/BWOverdriveManual.pdf Have fun learning the od. Do not disengage the lever uless at a full stop, or engine under load while accelerating. Do not try to back up with the lever engaged.
You have to remember that it is not hooked up in a strictly stock manner, so we don't know what safeguards may have been bypassed. To eliminate the possibility of damage to the internal overdrive components, I still recommend locking the overdrive out. Once he determines what is hooked up and how, further determination can be made. Separating the unit from the transmission (with all that entails) and going through it is not a lot of fun.
thanks so much tubman,for keeping me in the (disengaged) mode. im definitely keeping the cable pulled completely out. there is a transmission shop here that i owned and operated i beleive still by guy that started it in the late 1960s.i might have him look at the setup.he and i havent seen each other for since the 70s. oh yeah,hows your quest for a hood assist. i thought the '37 hood was heavy,man the '51 it is a heavy beast and even a struggle with one bad shoulder and a arthritic neck. Tom.You have to remember that it is not hooked up in a strictly stock manner, so we don't know what safeguards may have been bypassed. To eliminate the possibility of damage to the internal overdrive components, I still recommend locking the overdrive out. Once he determines what is hooked up and how, further determination can be made. Separating the unit from the transmission (with all that entails) and going through it is not a lot of fun.
thanks so much tubman, for keeping me in the (disengaged) mode. im definitely keeping the cable pulled completely out. there is a transmission shop here that i owned and operated i beleive still by guy that started it in the late 1960s.i might have him look at the setup.he and i havent seen each other for since the 70s. oh yeah,hows your quest for a hood assist. i thought the '37 hood was heavy,man the '51 it is a heavy beast and even a struggle with one bad shoulder and a arthritic neck. Tom.
sounds great,tubman will you be using a lift strut on each side? i know there is only one prop rod. wondering how it would work being lifted using one strut. let me /us know how it works out. pictures? Tom.I received the lift and associated parts I ordered the other day and have been playing around with them. The variety of lift struts (lengths and capacity) available are amazing, so I am sure I can come up with something. The problem is mounting it. I'd like to use some existing holes and am now leaning towards mounting the lift strut between the frame and hood hinge. I am trying to avoid using any sheet metal parts for mounting. Once I ger the mounting figured out, getting the proper strut should be easy. I'll keep you informed.
sounds great,tubman will you be using a lift strut on each side? i know there is only one prop rod. wondering how it would work being lifted using one strut. let me /us know how it works out. pictures? Tom.
I received the lift and associated parts I ordered the other day and have been playing around with them. The variety of lift struts (lengths and capacity) available are amazing, so I am sure I can come up with something. The problem is mounting it. I'd like to use some existing holes and am now leaning towards mounting the lift strut between the frame and hood hinge. I am trying to avoid using any sheet metal parts for mounting. Once I ger the mounting figured out, getting the proper strut should be easy. I'll keep you informed.
The trunk is even worse IMO, at least on the '50's w/exposed hinges. I was diagnosing a trunk leak and whacked out my shoulder. It's like doing a clean and jerk. lol
yeah,those hood hinges i assume only there to keep the hood aligned during the (clean and jerk). I have to wonder if henry ford ever attempted to lift those hoods. when was the first year he installed helper springs on the hood i wonder. Tom.I'm starting out with one side. When I get close, I will probably go to one on each side to keep from "tweaking" the hood (which is one of the reasons I don't want to use sheet metal as an attachment point). Since this is going to be a "trial and error" process, I am trying to keep the costs down for now. (I "flunked out" of the Mechanical Engineering program at the U of M in 1961, which was probably the best thing that ever happened to me.)
"Joe", thanks a lot; I haven't even tried the deck lid yet. Hopefully, it'll be OK, as I don't remember it being the problem that the hood always was.
BTW, I installed the missing hood springs; as I expected, they don't help with this prticular problem.