How would you fix this horn? (picture!)

spdway1

spdway1

Well-known member
Working on my A, and this part of the horn fell off.:mad: I can't seem to get it to fit securely back on. I am afraid it will pop off again from the vibration of driving. I am not an advocate for JB Weld on any Model A :eek:.
What do you suggest? :confused:

I know it is not an original horn; it is what came on it from the previous owner. Thanks for your ideas.
 

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Loctite offers many adhesives beyond thread locker. They have a metal to metal glue any many others.
 
It's pretty thin metal find an artist with a tig welder.
There was a guy with a shop next to a friend of mine where they made the black boxes for airplanes. We'd sit around after work having a few beers and he'd be welding the empty cans into art without burning holes in them.
 
Got some JB Weld?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpvkLQWfPBk

>>"There was a guy with a shop next to a friend of mine where they made the black boxes for airplanes."
There is a building named after the guy that invented the black box in the 50's.
It wasn't thought of much here, but was taken up internationally.
https://www.dst.defence.gov.au/news/2014/05/27/black-box-inventor-honoured-with-building-name
My wife worked with Dr. Zelinsky for a number of years. He co founded Seeing Machines which has been taken up by Volvo trucks and others. It checks on driver fatigue. You will probably see it in new cars soon.
 
Replacement horns have been seen on Ebay in the $35 to $50 range.

Currently there is a "buy it now" for what the seller claims is a Sparton horn for $54. The horn is missing all the pole windings in the motor and who knows what else - as in a good donor horn for this "trumpet."

A "Spartonesque" horn has been reproduced by A&L in the past. They may have even resumed production since I see complete Spartons available on Ebay for as little as $125. One imagines a "new" horn from A&L might be preferable to one's "original seasoned veteran" and upgraders look for Ebay to recoup part of their outlay.

Joe K
 
David R. said:
You could clean it down to bare metal and solder it. Then repaint.
Click to expand...

i like this idea,
you need to get it shiny bare metal. you would only need to do a few small spots.
if you get a blob of solder you can file / sand it nice and smooth won't even see it.

that horn vibrates a lot JB weld may work but keep an eye on it.
 
Super Glue. I wouldn’t over think this one.

Keep it simple stupid. That’s a saying, I’m not talking about anyone.

Enjoy
 
Using JB Weld will not send you straight to Hell, esp. on a non-original part.

It appears the horn-bell slips into the straight section...with enough room for a sheet metal screw or three. Pop rivets might also work...but slot-head sheet metal screws might look more authentic.
 
I wouldn't sweat using any type of epoxy adhesive on an old repro Hutchins or other manufacturer's assembly. An alternative would be to carefully expand the fit end of that bell to make it fit tighter, The projector tube could also be shrunk with heat but it would have to be repainted to do that. The projectors come up on flea-pay now and then but may not fit.
 
updraught said:
There is a building named after the guy that invented the black box in the 50's.
My wife worked with Dr. Zelinsky for a number of years. He co founded Seeing Machines which has been taken up by Volvo trucks and others. It checks on driver fatigue. You will probably see it in new cars soon.
Click to expand...
A lot of new cars already have it. It keeps track of time behind the wheel and steering inputs. It will beep if it detects a change in your steering.
The black boxes were about 1/4" thick titanium. He had a big plexiglass box filled with argon so the welds were 100% shielded front and back. He used sand blast cabinet gloves so he could work inside the cabinet.
 
I personally would take it to a local restoration shop and get them to tig weld a few spots around the bell. Doesn't have to be fully welded, just a few spots should do it.
 
I agree with Ayers1. The originals had a few spot welds holding the bell on. I would even try with a mig weld after turning the heat low and holding the gun very close. Just a few very short contacts should permanently attach the bell.
 
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