Clutch won't dis-engage

M

macbubba

Junior Member
Hi All, All of a sudden o`nite my clutch won't dis-engage. checked arm on trans, linkage to pedal all look OK. Didn't`t hear any weird noises while it was working, now it`s stuck in gear ???? Thanks for any help.
 
I had a truck that the clutch disc would stick to the flywheel. It was intermittent. If you have a lot of room and nothing to hit, start it in gear and hit the brakes hard after it's running. Be ready to kill the ignition too.
 
I also had this happen on my '51 club coupe after being stored over the winter. "GB"'s advice is spot on. After it broke loose, I was very leery about it for about a week, but it came around 100%.
 
yeah, all good advise above. I drive around with the clutch pedal down and jump on and off the gas. They break loose and usually not happen again. Seems as though you need to drive it more often!
 
Yes, all good advice. I've had it happen too because I was slipping the clutch while backing a trailer up hill on a narrow driveway. I drove it for a couple of miles with the clutch pedal down before it broke loose.
If it is a column shift you might have two gears selected. Hit the starter with the ignition off and the clutch pedal down. If the motor turns over and the car remains stationary It is the transmission. If the car moves it's the clutch.
To disengage the transmission. Chock one rear wheel front and back, jack the other side rear wheel off the ground (parking brake off) If it is column shift, put the shift lever somewhere near the neutral position. Open the hood and check the selectors near the firewall, they should be at the same height. You can move them by hand until they are. If this is your problem you need to take the side cover off the transmission and get it repaired.
 
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oldbugger said:
Seems to happen in moist conditions, the metal flecks in the clutch disc rusts to the flywheel
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You musta looked at our weather report for this week in the Puget Sound region. On my old 2 ton jailbar I finally cut a stick that kept the clutch pedal depressed all winter. I cut a V notch in the top of the stick that caught in the bottom of the steering wheel's rim.
 
I have done that in the past also, but wondered if that would weaken the springs in the clutch cover.
 
I had this happen a couple of months ago. We couldn’t get it to break loose. Had to take the transmission out to free it. I replaced the clutch and threw that one in the trash, it was an all day job.

JB
 
I have always been lucky enought to free it up by putting it in 3rd gear, hold the clutch down and hit the starter
 
GB SISSON said:
I had a truck that the clutch disc would stick to the flywheel. It was intermittent. If you have a lot of room and nothing to hit, start it in gear and hit the brakes hard after it's running. Be ready to kill the ignition too.
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Hey GB....Don't you mean "start it up in "NEUTRAL" (since the clutch is "sticking") then hit the brakes??? That is how I've always done it.....Jack the A$$ off the ground...start it up.....hit the brake peddle!!! Whaaaa Laaaa OR IF you have plenty of room in front of you THEN you don't need to jack it up, just start it in neutral and hit the brake when it starts
 
rockfla said:
Hey GB....Don't you mean "start it up in "NEUTRAL" (since the clutch is "sticking") then hit the brakes??? That is how I've always done it.....Jack the A$$ off the ground...start it up.....hit the brake peddle!!! Whaaaa Laaaa OR IF you have plenty of room in front of you THEN you don't need to jack it up, just start it in neutral and hit the brake when it starts
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I have always found it hard to get it into gear once it's running and in neutral. Never jacked up the rear to remedy this, but seems you are saying that one can shift in and out of gear with no clutch action as long as a rear wheel is off the ground?
 
Me...I start it in neutral, let it warm up a bit so it will re start with the trans in 1st gear.

Then drive around my circle driveway, or quiet street and get violent on the gas pedal with the clutch pedal down to the floor the whole time.
 
cas3 said:
Me...I start it in neutral, let it warm up a bit so it will re start with the trans in 1st gear.

Then drive around my circle driveway, or quiet street and get violent on the gas pedal with the clutch pedal down to the floor the whole time.
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Fine, so you are a little smarter than me. Makes perfect sense. Warm it up first... Me, I just pull the choke out about half way, put it in reverse, hit the ignition toggle switch, then starter button and back outa the shed at about 10 mph. Before jamming on the brakes and the violent stuff. As a kid we had a 'Sisson Family Coat of Arms' in a little frame in the hallway. Under the elaborate scrollwork and shield was the family motto.
Not 'Work hard and Save your Money' or 'Strive for Excellence' or anything practical. It just read:

'Hope for the Best'
 
"IF" it's a "stuck" clutch....that means its "stuck" in drive mode whether the transmission is "IN" gear OR in "NEUTRAL"........OR am I missing something (from the "clutch" side of the equation)? SO....."IF" the clutch is stuck.....you crank the car.....car moves, IN gear or IN neutral!!!! SO....."IF" the clutch is "stuck"....jack the rear wheels OFF the ground.....start the car IN neutral (rear wheels are turning because the clutch is "stuck") THEN just hit the brake!!! Clutch brakes loose from the flywheel surface!! OR......"IF" and this is a big "riskier" IF.....there is enough open space in front of the car, put it in neutral, then crank the car over.....as soon as the car starts to roll, hit the brake peddle!!!! Done both ways several time over the years.
 
How come no one has mentioned the 'big bang' that you will hear when it breaks free?

That alone, could be a scary noise from the release.
 
Rockfla, when the transmission is in neutral, that means the input shaft bone is no longer connected to the output shaft bone.

Input shaft will turn at crank speed (with clutch engaged), and since the counter shaft, or cluster gear is meshed with the input shaft at all times, those two will turn freely since no gears on the main shaft are engaged. Same as when you roll a car around in neutral not running
 
rockfla said:
"IF" it's a "stuck" clutch....that means its "stuck" in drive mode whether the transmission is "IN" gear OR in "NEUTRAL"........OR am I missing something (from the "clutch" side of the equation)? SO....."IF" the clutch is stuck.....you crank the car.....car moves, IN gear or IN neutral!!!! SO....."IF" the clutch is "stuck"....jack the rear wheels OFF the ground.....start the car IN neutral (rear wheels are turning because the clutch is "stuck") THEN just hit the brake!!! Clutch brakes loose from the flywheel surface!! OR......"IF" and this is a big "riskier" IF.....there is enough open space in front of the car, put it in neutral, then crank the car over.....as soon as the car starts to roll, hit the brake peddle!!!! Done both ways several time over the years.
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If the clutch is stuck to the flywheel, it will react the same way, whether the clutch pedal is up or down.
If the transmission is in neutral and you turn the rear wheels, the input shaft (clutch) will be stationary. There will be no force at the clutch face
Park your car on a hill in neutral, clutch pedal out, brakes off. The car will move but the engine won't turn.
To create a force to break the clutch free from the flywheel, the transmission must be in a gear, and the clutch pedal must be down.
You don't need to depress the pedal when you are starting the car in neutral.
 
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