Tiny Bit of Metal Flake in Differential Fluid

shew01

shew01

Well-known member
Apparently, my differential has started leaking (around the torque tube connection). I noticed the differential was a little low; so, I drained maybe a half pint into a pan to check for metal flakes. At the time, I didn’t see any metal flakes; so, I topped off the differential with 600W from the Model A vendors and called it done.

For whatever reason, I left the fluid in the pan for several days. This morning, I started emptying the pan into my recycling jug and noticed a tiny bit of metal flakes that had settled into the bottom of the pan. I should have made a picture, but I didn’t think to do that.

At this point, I’m not sure how to proceed.


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Modern gear oils are so much better than the 600 W oil available from the vendors. The 85W-140 GL 5 gear oil has a chemical that coats the parts and wears instead of the parts, including gears and bearings. As the chemical wears away more is deposited. The multi viscosity means that it is good for summer and winter. 600 W is an antique rating that does not mean it is SAE 600 weight. The 85W-140 has just as high a viscosity.
 
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Drain, flush with a solvent, refill with what you like, drive 500-1000 miles, drain into a white cloth check for metal, no metal drive on, if you find a lot of metal go to you nearest ford dealership and trade for a new model A, the last statement is for humor.
 
That's the reason for oil changes.They flush out all those little bits from years of wear and tear.You could be seeing flakes that were placed there 60 years ago,but the modern quality oils are washing them out.
 
nkaminar said:
Modern gear oils are so much better than the 600 W oil available from the vendors. The 85W-140 GL 5 gear oil has a chemical that coats the parts and wears instead of the parts, including gears and bearings. As the chemical wears away more is deposited. The multi viscosity means that it is good for summer and winter. 600 W is an antique rating that does not mean it is SAE 600 weight. The 85W-140 has just as high a viscosity.
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Yes, I agree. That was why I had switched from 600W, and I think that caused the leak. (Nothing else changed in the differential.) The car came with 600W and did not leak until I switched to 85W140. So, I switched back to 600W a while back.


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Keith True said:
That's the reason for oil changes.They flush out all those little bits from years of wear and tear.You could be seeing flakes that were placed there 60 years ago,but the modern quality oils are washing them out.
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What Keith said. For that reason I install magnetic drain plugs in my transmission, O/D and rear end.
 
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I stumbled on to something about two weeks ago about these rear-end lubes of today. I will see if I can find it.
 
I really don’t want to take apart the differential if I can avoid it. (I don’t have the skill set for it.) Is there some sort of stop leak that I could try?


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Big hammer said:
Drain, flush with a solvent, refill with what you like, drive 500-1000 miles, drain into a white cloth check for metal, no metal drive on, if you find a lot of metal go to you nearest ford dealership and trade for a new model A, the last statement is for humor.
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What kind of solvent?


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shew01 said:
What kind of solvent?


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Kerosene or diesel fuel work well. I fill the case with whatever I am using, put the car on jack stands and run it in gear for only 10 seconds or so, then drain and check for more metal
FWIW, All of my cars have 4 drain pugs: sump, gearbox.O/d and differential. they ALL have a magnet on them. Buy some round ones just so they go through the hole. They will not move and you'll never have metal flakes recirculating around where you don't want them. Clean them off when you change the oil.
 
I have been using John Deere Cornhead grease which contain thixotropic agents. These agents cause the grease to change its viscosity when agitated. When installed in a rearend case this grease will flow rather than cake up or collect in one area which is the typical way most types of grease perform. The Cornhead grease is formulated for use in gear drive systems. As the gears turn the viscosity lowers allowing the grease to continuously circulate and provide excellent tooth contact lubrication. In my transmission I mix gear oil with the Cornhead grease which seems to provide the proper viscosity to aid in slowing down the idler when changing gears.
 
CT Jack said:
I have been using John Deere Cornhead grease which contain thixotropic agents. These agents cause the grease to change its viscosity when agitated. When installed in a rearend case this grease will flow rather than cake up or collect in one area which is the typical way most types of grease perform. The Cornhead grease is formulated for use in gear drive systems. As the gears turn the viscosity lowers allowing the grease to continuously circulate and provide excellent tooth contact lubrication. In my transmission I mix gear oil with the Cornhead grease which seems to provide the proper viscosity to aid in slowing down the idler when changing gears.
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I’ve been using corn head grease in my steering box, but I never thought about using it in the differential. Does it mix well with 600W and/or 85W140? How much corn head grease do you use?


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I cannot see how changing the oil in the rear end would cause a leak. Unless the new oil cleaned out gunk that was clogging up the leak area.
 
katy said:
Did you check: started leaking (around the torque tube connection)
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IIRC, the torque tube bolts are wired. Check to be sure they are tight, then wire them correctly. I find it’s sometimes easier to wire bolts two to a wire than trying to include more.
 
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