Waking up a Sleeping Beauty, 1934 5 window
- Thread starter The Art Doctor
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The Art Doctor
Senior Member
I got my 27oz jute padding in. I ordered a 36" x 36" piece which was long enough but a little narrow, which was OK by me as I did not want to have to order a second yard just to have two extra inches in width. I used the new rubber mat as a template to trim it to shape. It was hard to cut smoothly with a sharp razor blade and I wound up using a pair of kitchen scissors to good if hand weary result. The Rubber mat is a good match to the old V8 shop one it replaces. I had to do some edge trimming and cutting around the peddles as the new mat did not have a punch-out for a brake peddle, just the clutch. I had to adjust nearly all the cutouts, they just didn't line up or rubbed and caused the mat to flap with each peddle press. Even the hole for the steering column was too small causing the rubber to pucker around it. I am not thrilled with my cuts, they look ragged compared to the factory punch-outs. For a guy that does perfection for a living they bug me, buy when I'm in the drivers seat I cannot see them past my big size 13's. And the necessity of having splits to get it around the peddles leads to it not laying flat there, even with duck tape on the backside. Its in, paid for and will stay until it fails in a way I cannot stand and then I will replace it with carpeting, paying someone to do a nice bound edge job. I did clean up and straighten the aluminum scuff plates, they are old reproductions judging by the blue ink stamp on the back that said "for 5 window coupe". They are a bit shiny now but will dull over the next 50 years as they had before.
I got my Box 'o Bends of exhaust tubing in. That is the next job to get done.
pics, pre-existing aluminum faced jute, new rubber mat, new jute cut to shape, new jute installed, final instillation.
I got my Box 'o Bends of exhaust tubing in. That is the next job to get done.
pics, pre-existing aluminum faced jute, new rubber mat, new jute cut to shape, new jute installed, final instillation.
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petehoovie
Well-known member
The Art Doctor
Senior Member
I have developed a whining, occasionally dripping and grease flinging drivers side water pump. Just to make sure I'm not missing it; there is no drain on the radiator despite the hole and channel below it in the sheet metal, just two petcocks in the block near the lower mounts, correct?
I have a single extra NOS pump I got out if the classifieds a while back. I filled it up with fresh water pump grease, and painted it so its ready to go for a change out on Sunday. Its the later style with the port for a temperature sender that I intend to use to add a gauge, eventually. Last time out she ran 175* measured on the heads with the laser on an 82* day after 55 minutes to go 35 miles of surface street driving with red lights and traffic as usual.
Pics: Grease flung on the inside of the hood, offending water pump with grease covered sheave.
I have a single extra NOS pump I got out if the classifieds a while back. I filled it up with fresh water pump grease, and painted it so its ready to go for a change out on Sunday. Its the later style with the port for a temperature sender that I intend to use to add a gauge, eventually. Last time out she ran 175* measured on the heads with the laser on an 82* day after 55 minutes to go 35 miles of surface street driving with red lights and traffic as usual.
Pics: Grease flung on the inside of the hood, offending water pump with grease covered sheave.
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petehoovie
Well-known member
kevinshea
Senior Member
A few suggestions: rebuild all the engine compartment parts distributor, generator, fuel pump, carb... just start out knowing that everything is in order....all the sources for rebuilders can be found here in previous posts. I would take a look at the brakes, but given the low mileage, shoes and drums will likely be fine ... I would add StarBrite enzyme to the gas tank to clean up any gum or varnish, then, when running, the same stuff should clean up the lines. Drive it for short trip to trust your ride and when comfortable, start driving it around and smile when folks drive by and give you the thumbs up!
The Art Doctor
Senior Member
Job done. I painted up the replacement water pump with some very old Bob Drake engine enamel I got from a deceased V8 members garage a few years ago. It is darker than what was on there but better matches the correct color. Eventually I should refresh the whole engine but that would mean cleaning it first. I'll add that to the very bottom of the list.
Looking into Terry's note I have new grease fittings in my wish list at 3rd Gen, I will replace when I get enough needs to make an order. I think the original pump's housing may be cracked, possibly from too much grease with a high pressure gun? The bad pump had been rebuilt with a different style impeller too. As its stamped with a 40- part number I will clean it up and see what the problem actually was, eventually. Possibly it could be saved. I filled the new one with proper water pump grease through the screw on sheet metal opening using a Popsicle stick and put the cover back on.
While I had the coolant drained I went ahead and put in the missing thermostats. I went with 180's. These are 1 3/4" diameter with an integral o-ring seal at the perimeter and a cage to keep them from twisting if it were just the disc. The original application is for Pontiac Fiero and they come in 160, 180 and 190 (stock Fiero is 190). I always test them before hand in a pot of water to make sure they are opening, and later closing, at the same temperature. I did a test drive afterwords on a 60* day and the heads measured 175* just the same as they did on the 82* day with no stats but the radiator itself was a cool 120* meaning the thermostats are doing their job keeping the engine at a stable operating temp. I added the extra hose clamp to make it look more authentic but their is some slight chance it could slip up the hose with enough pump pressure and this will keep it from doing so.
Next stop is the Georgia Tech Auto Show this upcoming Saturday morning.
Pics: All done newly installed pump, new pump showing off its pollen dusting, new pump bottom, new thermostats, testing thermostats, old pump with possible housing crack.
Looking into Terry's note I have new grease fittings in my wish list at 3rd Gen, I will replace when I get enough needs to make an order. I think the original pump's housing may be cracked, possibly from too much grease with a high pressure gun? The bad pump had been rebuilt with a different style impeller too. As its stamped with a 40- part number I will clean it up and see what the problem actually was, eventually. Possibly it could be saved. I filled the new one with proper water pump grease through the screw on sheet metal opening using a Popsicle stick and put the cover back on.
While I had the coolant drained I went ahead and put in the missing thermostats. I went with 180's. These are 1 3/4" diameter with an integral o-ring seal at the perimeter and a cage to keep them from twisting if it were just the disc. The original application is for Pontiac Fiero and they come in 160, 180 and 190 (stock Fiero is 190). I always test them before hand in a pot of water to make sure they are opening, and later closing, at the same temperature. I did a test drive afterwords on a 60* day and the heads measured 175* just the same as they did on the 82* day with no stats but the radiator itself was a cool 120* meaning the thermostats are doing their job keeping the engine at a stable operating temp. I added the extra hose clamp to make it look more authentic but their is some slight chance it could slip up the hose with enough pump pressure and this will keep it from doing so.
Next stop is the Georgia Tech Auto Show this upcoming Saturday morning.
Pics: All done newly installed pump, new pump showing off its pollen dusting, new pump bottom, new thermostats, testing thermostats, old pump with possible housing crack.
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The Art Doctor
Senior Member
Made it down and back to the Georgia Tech Show down deep in the city. We were given an early arrival time to place our car near the center of the show and the big sculpture in the design and engineering end of campus. The show basically filled in around us. I was right behind a Cadillac Town Sedan that was originally a V16 car that when found as a derelict shell in the 80's was resurrected as street rod with modern, I believe Jaguar V12 power and suspension. That Caddy made the Ford look tiny but it held its own in the class and beauty department with the big Full Classic. The wife in our 2004 Ford Taurus wagon was across the isle from me. The '34 got tons of lookers both old and young, but the wagon really pulled in the little kids. I guess they have only known high roof SUV's and a wagon was something totally foreign to them. I don't have a total car count but it was over 200 with a provided BBQ lunch for all participants. Everything from a Ferrari F40 to a ratty student owned 77 4-door LTD with a 5-cylinder turbo diesel swap. Keynote speaker was head of Hyundai Global Design, who flew in from the New York auto show for three hours and then flew back right afterwords, and his talk was very interesting. Great show and will be going again next year.
Pics Me and my '34, Big Caddy, our 2004 Taurus Wagon, Show filling in around us.
Pics Me and my '34, Big Caddy, our 2004 Taurus Wagon, Show filling in around us.
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34fordy
Well-known member
The Art Doctor
Senior Member
Its possible. I learned to cut my own hair in undergrad using clippers and two mirrors. I have not paid for a hair cut since the mid 1990's. My son is 19 and ony his first cut was by his grandfather's barber, I have done all the rest. I have super curly Sicilian hair and gave up on brushing out the knots about 4.5 years ago. Dreadlocks do take some effort but once going are fairly hands off. I turn 55 this year and as long as I still have a full head of hair I will be rocking some sort of offbeat look.
The Art Doctor
Senior Member
Good to see you two as well woog and sister.
Ive had a busy month or so with the car. Made it to and from the Hot Rod Revival in *******, GA which is about 40 miles from me. I won the Bitchin' Prohibition Award for most likely to have hauled 'shine back in the day. That gave me courage to to try a longer trip to the Ridz By the River which was about 55 miles. I made it to two shows that morning on the way there and she quit about 5 miles from the final destination. It was starting to get warm on a 55mph hill so I slowed a bit and she stopped running. I got a lift back home from my buddy Dave and his ramp truck. I wound up changing out to two new Carpenter water pumps with sealed bearings. The existing were ok but both were flinging grease in my clean engine compartment and I'd had enough of cleaning it up. I pulled the thermostats just in case they were the issue. Replaced the ignition condenser, filled it up with gas and she was back on the road. I then went to the Cruisin' Main Street show in downtown Tucker where I ran into Woog. That was 25 miles on a 92* day. She did OK there but the last three miles home I got a bit of water spitting out of the top of radiator but not terrible. I need a better seal at the cap as it was shooting droplets on the windshield and hood. I did take home a Top 20 award at the show. There we around 80 cars at the show which will get 150 in the cooler weather months.
Ive had a busy month or so with the car. Made it to and from the Hot Rod Revival in *******, GA which is about 40 miles from me. I won the Bitchin' Prohibition Award for most likely to have hauled 'shine back in the day. That gave me courage to to try a longer trip to the Ridz By the River which was about 55 miles. I made it to two shows that morning on the way there and she quit about 5 miles from the final destination. It was starting to get warm on a 55mph hill so I slowed a bit and she stopped running. I got a lift back home from my buddy Dave and his ramp truck. I wound up changing out to two new Carpenter water pumps with sealed bearings. The existing were ok but both were flinging grease in my clean engine compartment and I'd had enough of cleaning it up. I pulled the thermostats just in case they were the issue. Replaced the ignition condenser, filled it up with gas and she was back on the road. I then went to the Cruisin' Main Street show in downtown Tucker where I ran into Woog. That was 25 miles on a 92* day. She did OK there but the last three miles home I got a bit of water spitting out of the top of radiator but not terrible. I need a better seal at the cap as it was shooting droplets on the windshield and hood. I did take home a Top 20 award at the show. There we around 80 cars at the show which will get 150 in the cooler weather months.
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Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
If water is spitting out of the top of the radiator while on the road (after a longer trip on a hot day), it is most likely overheating (boiling).
Mine will overflow if I overfill it, but once it has "found its correct level" it will not continue to do it. If I was experiencing your situation, I'd be a bit worried about overheating the engine. There can be a lot of causes of this . . . rust, scale, radiator, etc..
Mine will overflow if I overfill it, but once it has "found its correct level" it will not continue to do it. If I was experiencing your situation, I'd be a bit worried about overheating the engine. There can be a lot of causes of this . . . rust, scale, radiator, etc..
petehoovie
Well-known member
The Art Doctor
Senior Member
I have yet to add a temperature gauge inside the cabin to monitor the situation while driving. The new pumps have bosses for one in each. For now I will add just one I already own as I haven not yet found any I like the look of enough to have two of them in there. I read the right bank is usually hotter, best to put a single gauge on that side? Ive been using a laser gun thing and it seems to be reading 195* at the top of the radiator, warm but not yet boiling when she is working hard on a hot day. The radiator looks to me to be an old original. The top sealing surface of the radiator fill neck is a bit scarred and I think I may be getting some seepage past the gouges. I'm going to try and add another layer to the gasket surface of the cap. The level once found is about 1/2" of liquid visible through the fill hole over the brass "pan" I can see straight down for lack of a better term. I need to double check and see if the overflow tube visible there is clear, I believe it is as I'm missing water. For now it is just water. I filled it up and just gravity drained it out the drain ***** 4 times before putting on the new pumps. I got out some brown liquid the first 2 times but the last two were essentially clear. I'm going to drain and fill again as I need to crack into it to put in the gauge sender. I'm thinking July and August heat in the deep south may be too much. I will report when I have more details.