This might slow my oil burning

corvette8n

corvette8n

Well-known member
I didn’t know this existed. 60wt. Oil with high zinc.
 

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19Fordy said:
How does 60W affect bearings?
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My thought too. That is not a multi-weight oil, so it will be the full 60 weight when cold. Before the engine warms and thins the oil, will 60-weight be able to get to everywhere its needed? I don't know. Maybe no problem. But maybe a dry bearing somewhere.
 
corvette8n said:
Worn rings I believe, 60 lbs compression on each cylinder, getting 40 miles of driving to the quart. I hope to swap in a Flathead motor I picked up a few years back this spring.
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ya, 40 miles eh? sounds like a good idea. ...people behind must be wondering if they're following the Queen Mary. ha :)
 
Back in the early 70s I had a friend who drove an old rambler wagon. She would pull into the gas station and tell the attendant, "Fill it with oil and check the gas"... Personally. I have run a few loose engines on straight 40w with a couple cans of STP to quiet things down.
 
I never did open up my 59L in my ‘38 to see how it was built. It had compression in the 60’s, never dripped oil, l used Mobil 1 10-50, never had to add oil, changed oil & filter every 500 miles. 3.78 diff, top speed on the Becada desert was 78 before an occasional missed beat. I wish I hadn’t sold it.
 
34fordy said:
I didn't realize there was a non dripper with that much wear. Geeesh
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I don't think it was wear. it didn't burn oil, and a 59L is a low compression engine anyway.

Ya know, I think i ought to qualify that low compression further: I was ignorant of the need to warm up an engine before taking a compression reading, so it might have had better compression than I thought at the time.
 
Also typically used when burning Nitro methane fuel. The amount of fuel flowing into the cylinders is so massive the engine oil gets contaminated. Heavy weight oil such as 60 wt is needed so the engine bearing's survive a 1/4 mile run.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnieroadster said:
Also typically used when burning Nitro methane fuel. The amount of fuel flowing into the cylinders is so massive the engine oil gets contaminated. Heavy weight oil such as 60 wt is needed so the engine bearing's survive a 1/4 mile run.
Ronnieroadster
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Hadn’t thought of that. Would a dry sump work?
 
Racing oil is engineered for a very short drop time not continued use. It is supposed to be run at the track one time and changed, not driven around for weeks and months. It does not have the proper additives to combat contamination and for long term stability. It has very low levels of detergents and dispersants and is designed to be used at high heat levels for short intervals. Now if you are racing your flatty, I stand corrected.
 
My Dad worked in sales for Texaco starting in the 1940's. For a time, his company car was a Plymouth with the flathead six. That thing was a lemon from day one and it burned oil to the tune of a quart every 100 miles. A company warehouse guy suggested the use of SAE 60 weight oil that was referred to as Aircraft-60. That stopped the smoking and extended the range to one quart per 500 miles but it was hard to start on a cold day.
 
Maybe the same idea with GM's recall on their 6.2 engines. The fix was going from 0-20w oil to 0-40w. The feds are taking a second look at that fix.
 
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