1930 ford rear brakes

dac

Junior Member
Hello, I have a general question on how do you know if you need to replace your brake pads or anything else you might see in these photos. The car is a 1930 Ford Model A. All advice appreciated.

Thanks,
David
 

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It looks to me, from the photos, like it is time to replace the linings. How was the car stopping? What is the reason you removed the drums? Do you have cast iron drums?

Brakes are an important safety system and it is worthwhile spending some time getting them in good condition.

One thing that i found in the rear on some cars that I worked on was that the cam, the part that pushes on the rollers for the shoes, was not moving in the cam holder. It must be free to move back and forth for good braking. On one car I had to replace the cam and the holder because the cam did not come free even with some major force. A light smear of grease is used on the cam.

In the second photo, there should be a dust cap over the housing for the adjustment wedge. See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977533&cat=41655
 
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The car was stopping fine, it was that I bought the car 1 year ago and I'd never removed the rear hubs to see how everything was and that is what I found. I am just trying to repair everything I can before the spring season so I can be out driving her around. I do not have cast iron hubs would you advise me to change them both to cast iron?
 
I do not have cast iron hubs would you advise me to change them both to cast iron?

Cast iron drums are the single change that makes the Model A "compete" with modern traffic.

Ford himself saw the weakness of pressed steel drums - which in time wear thin, are subject to heating due to the thin section, and when heated "fade" making the brakes less effective.

Ford solution late in 1931 was cast iron drums, a convention he carried over into the Model B and Model 18 cars.

Today's Mel Gross drums ARE THE WAY TO GO if you're involved in any amount of brake work. (Sorry for yelling - I do it for emphasis)

I would do all four at the same time. 2/3rds of your braking will come on the front. You will be amazed at how well it stops.


Joe K
 
Cast iron drums are the single change that makes the Model A "compete" with modern traffic.

Ford himself saw the weakness of pressed steel drums - which in time wear thin, are subject to heating due to the thin section, and when heated "fade" making the brakes less effective.

Ford solution late in 1931 was cast iron drums, a convention he carried over into the Model B and Model 18 cars.

Today's Mel Gross drums ARE THE WAY TO GO if you're involved in any amount of brake work. (Sorry for yelling - I do it for emphasis)

I would do all four at the same time. 2/3rds of your braking will come on the front. You will be amazed at how well it stops.

Joe K

I agree, get Mel Gross (Randy Gross) brake shoes while you are at it.
 
Only you know your future Model A driving dreams.

Your service brakes appear to have bonded linings, not the best for original Ford pressed steel drums. Easy to replace those with a woven lining while you con$ider the cast drum up grade.

No need to replace your emergency brake bands, enough there to last several life times.

When & if your rear axle seals begin leaking all over your brake shoes, then a different story. Until then, drive & enjoy you car while you learn.
 
Cast iron drums are the single change that makes the Model A "compete" with modern traffic.

Ford himself saw the weakness of pressed steel drums - which in time wear thin, are subject to heating due to the thin section, and when heated "fade" making the brakes less effective.

Ford solution late in 1931 was cast iron drums, a convention he carried over into the Model B and Model 18 cars.

Today's Mel Gross drums ARE THE WAY TO GO if you're involved in any amount of brake work. (Sorry for yelling - I do it for emphasis)

I would do all four at the same time. 2/3rds of your braking will come on the front. You will be amazed at how well it stops.


Joe K
Where does one purchase these drums from?
 
With grease on the parking brake band I would replace that at the same time you replace the brake shoes. You are there now so you might as well make it one complete job vs. going back in at a later date. You need to remove the parking band anyhow so get new drums, shoes and a new band.

Mike
 
The car was stopping fine, it was that I bought the car 1 year ago and I'd never removed the rear hubs to see how everything was and that is what I found. I am just trying to repair everything I can before the spring season so I can be out driving her around. I do not have cast iron hubs would you advise me to change them both to cast iron?

Don’t try to fix something that’s not broken.

How many miles are planning on driving the car over the next few years?

If low mileage, I would suggest you put it back together. Enjoy your ride.

Remember to torque the rear axle nuts to at least 100 .
 
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