Dimensions for .083" pistons and removed liners

Eodcoduto

Member
I see a lot of references to removing the .040" steel sleeves in a 221 and using .083" pistons. I'll be sourcing pistons from NOS or some one's crusty old shelf, does anyone have the specs for piston to wall clearance with this setup?
 
Clearance specifications remain the same regardless of piston diameter.
The pistons you seek are very scarce.
 
I have my machinist hone to .0025 - .003" clearance. The pistons will be hard to find but they are out there. Last time I used some I used .080" rings as the .083" rings are hard to find. I had more ring gap than I would have desired but only by a couple Thousandths
 
When removing the factory thin wall sleeves I usually see one problem. The cylinder walls now uncovered are not in very good shape. Rather than looking for those .083 oversize pistons I simply bore the block for 3-3/16 pistons lost count as to how many times so far.
Ronnieroadster
 
When removing the factory thin wall sleeves I usually see one problem. The cylinder walls now uncovered are not in very good shape. Rather than looking for those .083 oversize pistons I simply bore the block for 3-3/16 pistons lost count as to how many times so far.
Ronnieroadster

Yes sir. I could not agree with you more.
In all my years I have done but one by simply pulling the sleeves. All the others were bored.
 
I believe I have a complete kit if you go that route. Pistons and rings. .083 over. Actually, if I’m not mistaken, the dimensions were .0835 if that makes a difference to you. Email me at v8fordman@hotmail.com
 
I’ve found a few kits so far and haven’t made up my mind yet on which direction to go. I knocked the liners out yesterday and the bores are nice and not pitted but I still need to mic them to see where they stand.
 
I'm with Ronnie and others --> If you want to have the bores finished as they should be, you pretty much need to bore it, hone it and ensure everything is done correctly. Buying STD 3 3/16 pistons and rings is what I would do - no question is my mind!
 
be sure to taper the top of the block after removing liners, so you do not have trouble installing new piston/rings. I do this a lot also
 
Good call, machine shops around me are extinct so the search is on for one within driving distance that has a good reputation with old iron.
 
I got a set of those from fordbarn member Chuck Kuntz. Don't know if he has any more...
The bores were outstanding when I removed the sleeves, and didn't want to pay extra setup to bore the block with studs still in. Egge has rings in .080 over. I machined a slug with an offset that catches the edge of the sleeve, and drove out with BFH.
 

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I got a set of those from fordbarn member Chuck Kuntz. Don't know if he has any more...
The bores were outstanding when I removed the sleeves, and didn't want to pay extra setup to bore the block with studs still in. Egge has rings in .080 over. I machined a slug with an offset that catches the edge of the sleeve, and drove out with BFH.
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That’s much better than the aluminum wedge I used to collapse mine and knock out. If I go back with liners, I’ll turn up a manual to keep them from collapsing . It looks like boring out to stock 239 dimensions would be the easiest to find pistons, if I found a cheap set of .083 over slugs and liners that would save on machine work, but I think it’s all going to be about the same in the end.
 
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