Timing light shows 30 deg off? Speedway Electronic Distributor

W

willysspeed

Junior Member
Head scratcher here.

Just picked up a 35 ford w/ a 21 stud flathead that has been in slumber for 25+ years.

Helmet style distributor needed to be sent out, and after messing with the generator could not get it to charge, plus all battery cables were 2ga (would also want to purchase 00 to stay w/ 6v), so figured for the marginal cost difference it'd be a good time to swap to a 12v neg ground electronic ignition and alt setup.

Made myself a timing marker to go onto the timing cover, and with the big zip tie method, got 2 timing marks and split the difference to get TDC. Verified 3 times.

Installed the distributor and looked to be about perfectly visually clocked when I aligned to TDC, which i would expect.

Fired right up, ran great. When I hooked up my dial back timing light (Innova 5568) it was showing 30 degrees advance at idle. There is no vacuum advance. Just as a dummy test, I clocked the timing back and it started running worse. Not to sound pretentious, but I'm pretty damn positive my timing mark on the pulley is right, and the motor sounds like it has the correct timing (or pretty damn close).

Yes I can dial in timing with a vacuum gage from where I am, but I hate when things don't make sense and I would like to use a light to verify where I'm at when I tweak timing. Why is my timing light showing 30 degrees off? Anyone have any similar experiences?
 
I've never heard of anyone using a timing light on a Hemet style distributor. You need to set the timing on a Sun Distributor tester or a Ford/Heyer tester.


I'm probably wrong, a few pros will come along and destroy me soon.
 
Hi Seth,

That helmet style was originally on the car, I am using a speedway electronic crab style now which has some additional timing adjustment you can play with.

I can't post a link but its called "1932-41 Ford Flathead 3 Bolt Electronic Distributor" from Speedway.
 
Repeated the procedure 3 times. Rotating the motor over in between times until I was at the compression stroke then did it again. Yea taking the head off would be more accurate. But I dont see this method being 30 deg off or having a motor start up and run great that far off.
 
How about checking timing with a vacuum gauge. Set it up for best vacuum at idle, once warmed up. You say you have no vaccum advance? Only mechanical. Once happy with vacuum gauge method cross check using you dial back timing light. Should then be able to compare for operation of timing light.
Phil NZ
 
Thanks Phil. I think that will be the game plan. Yes only mechanical. I would have experimented longer but am waiting on water pumps and hoses to hookup the rad so didnt want to run it too long.
 
At what RPM are you checking the timing?
Have you tried to rev the engine to see if advance increases?
The info says to use resistor core plug wires.

I read some of the website and it says the timing advance is not adjustable. Most comments from experienced members here seem to think 22-24 degrees is all a flathead needs. I would be on the alert for detonation if you don't find a way to get reasonable timing readings. Speedway seems confident that they have many happy users of the unit. I hope you get it worked out.
 
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I am with B&S, A flathead is as far as I know the only V8 where cylinder #1 is NOT the one farthest forward. MANY people get confused about which cylinder is #1 on a flathead.
The engine couldn't run with the timing off by 30 degrees.
 
I know a guy that once installed a GM converted distributor 180 degrees out. Ol' Bubba walked me/him through getting it right. Just saying, "I know a guy"... lol Great memory. Chap
 
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