Zenith leaks after many tests and settings

jerrytocci

Senior Member
My Zenith still leaks after testing fuel level (I bought a level tester) re-gasketed most of carb changed shut-off valve and looked for cracks many times. This a pro rebuilt. Is it possible a gasket is missing or maybe a bad jet? Also. I cannot get good results from curb adjustment or GAV.
 
I solved a pesky Zenith Model B carb leak last month that had defied stopping. I did all the usual things, such as changing the float level, installing a "modern" needle and seat, new gaskets, checking for cracks, etc. Still, there would always be a drop of gasoline each morning on the bottom of the main jet plug. I even tried a couple different drain plugs, brass and steel. No change. Drips continued, smelling up the garage.
I looked up on-line recommended fuel-proof sealants and found that Permatex Permashield Gasket Dressing, #85420, had good reviews. I bought a tube of it @ about $15.00 and applied it to the threads of the new drain plug I selected. I also bought a softer gasket at the hardware store that promised to compress better than the hard fiber gasket that typically comes with rebuild kits. This stuff stopped the leak overnight! No gasoline drips from the drain plug any more. I still shut the gas valve off after stopping the engine, but if I forget and go back into the garage the next morning, there is no gassy smell. The needle and float are doing their job and the Permatex sealant is doing its job. I think that perhaps the threads in the lower half of the carb body were worn oversized, which allowed gasoline to eventually by-pass the plug gasket. Anyway, this sealant really works at stopping gasoline drips. It might be a good idea to also smear some of this stuff on the on/off valve when installing it into the gas tank.
Try using this stuff on your drain plug and see if that solves the leaking problem.
Marshall
 

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I have done the same as Marshall, on the drain plug. I also put a light coat on the GAV housing threads to stop weeping out of there.

Besides that, make sure you don't have 2 gaskets on the Main Jet by accident. It is easy to miss one that is left behind in the hole, then you add a new gasket to the jet and install it. Two gaskets lowers the tip of the jet, and can cause fuel to weep out until the fuel level in the bowl is low enough for it to stop.
 
Sometimes the jets aren't properly seated. Some jet sockets can bind with the casting and it feels like it is seated but its not. Double check.
 
My Zenith still leaks after testing fuel level (I bought a level tester) re-gasketed most of carb changed shut-off valve and looked for cracks many times. This a pro rebuilt. Is it possible a gasket is missing or maybe a bad jet? Also. I cannot get good results from curb adjustment or GAV.
Where located? Send to me I'll fix for nothing! Just parts if needed and postage!!! Shouldn't need any sealants, Just ONE gasket on each jet except idle jet and make sure they are tight! And float level is proper height! Jets are proper length and diameter and dished properly. Have NEVER had a leaking carb! Just my three cents..
 

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Where. Does it leak? If it’s leaking out of the throat, then take the carb off ,drain the gas, and blow through the inlet connection with the carb up side down. You should not be able to pass air. I check the inlet valves with my mouth to make sure they work. Sometimes new, they don’t.
 
lots of places a Zenith can leak from... here's a list
 

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My Zenith still leaks after testing fuel level (I bought a level tester) re-gasketed most of carb changed shut-off valve and looked for cracks many times. This a pro rebuilt. Is it possible a gasket is missing or maybe a bad jet? Also. I cannot get good results from curb adjustment or GAV.
Did you fix your "leaking Carb"?
 
If you’re using an original (or repo) main jet, check the crimped connection of the tube to the body (hex portion). If it is not absolutely tight it will allow a drip to develop over 5-10 seconds.
 
So the threads on the gav are worn out??

No. The choke/GAV knob at the top of the choke rod is a screw-on knob on the reproduction choke rods. It is a common issue for that screwed on knob to be loose, so you turn the knob and you think you are changing the mixture, but you are not. The knob is just turning on the choke rod.

A simple fix is to remove the knob and put some thread lock on the threads, then screw the knob back on. After a few minutes, it is glued tight and when you turn the knob, you actually turn the adjustment needle down in the carb.
 
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