40 Ford Steering Box

Bazooka Joe

Bazooka Joe

Senior Member
I’m wanting to either rebuilt my existing original steering box. Seems a clanking noise and steering wheel shakes at approximately 35-40 MPH only. I believe it to be the box. Thou I will check, pitman arm, drag link, tie rod etc.

If I just remove the existing steering box and send out to get rebuilt how difficult is it to remove. There is a clamp with a nut and bolt directly above the box on the shaft. After removing screws from the mount and that clamp, does the box slide out?

Also has anyone used this set up WEEDETR Steering Upgrade Kit as I’m considering this option if it’s a straight forward replacement with no modifications. I would prefer to just use the box only and hook to existing shaft if possible. I do not see where the horn wire comes out on both ends, just on the right side of the shaft. I’ll have to get some clarification when I call them, probably tomorrow.

Thank You
 

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A bone stock steering setup done perfectly on a 40 with radial tires is a dream to drive. Finger tip steering up to and past 75 MPH. Fix the one you got.
My 40 drives great but it the whole system must be in perfect condition.
First check the adjustment on yours.
 
Yes I forgot to check the adjustment, thou there was not much grease/fluid in the box to start with so the damage may be done.

Do you know how easy it is to remove the steering box and what it entails. I’m hoping once removing the clamp and nut on shaft and steering box mount bolts that attach to the brace it will slide out.
 
Lots of good links here.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=how+to+remove+1940+Ford+steering+box&t=brave&ia=web

-- 01-24-2018 @ 12:34 PM
"It's a fairly straight forward process.
I am assuming you are doing some type of repair?
You'll need to remove the horn button after disconnecting the wire at the end of the gear box. Remove the steering wheel, the shift lever, the wiring from the ignition switch and the floor board. Remove the two bolts that fasten the steering column drop to the instrument panel nearly all the way (for now).
Disconnect the linkage from the two shift levers beneath the hood. I'd suggest you get the chassis as high off the ground, safely of course, as you possibly can. If a lift is available - great!
Remove the left engine pan, pitman arm and the three bolts / nuts that fasten the gear to the frame rail.
At this time, completely remove those two bolts between the column drop and instrument panel.

Now comes the fun part - remove the steering gear. You may find it easier if someone helps from within the passenger compartment while you manipulate the assembly from beneath the car. It'll come out of there but requires a bit of patience with the manipulation required.
If your spring is sagging, you may find it necessary to lift the body / frame up a bit while you allow the front chassis to hang. That gives you a little more room between the axle and gear housing. Kube"
 
OK, looks very labor intense, I guess my question is once the steering box and shaft are removed as one section? as I want to send the box out to get rebuilt, how does the shaft get removed from the steering box or it does not and I would send the steering box assembly ( shaft and box ) out. Doesn’t it separate into two sections?

I did a 39 Ford steering box but I rebuilt it myself, and remember the shaft was still attached to the box.

Thank You for your help
 
Thank You, yes I’ll probably send the steering box out, but I believe the shaft and box are integrated one piece setup and can not be separated, and I’ll have to send out the box and shaft as one unit?
 
V8Club RG #10 member is excellent and popular steering box rebuilder- Greg Edwards
Newc
 
Bazooka Joe said:
Thank You, yes I’ll probably send the steering box out, but I believe the shaft and box are integrated one piece setup and can not be separated, and I’ll have to send out the box and shaft as one unit?
Click to expand...

Correct, the worm on the bottom of the shaft is pressed on. I would check everything as you mention, king pins, " pitman arm, drag link, tie rod etc." and adjust the steering box per the attached article from Vanpelt. It is not all that difficult to rebuild the box especially if the worm and sector gears are in decent shape. Use cornhead grease which works very well with no leakage.
 

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Floyd said:
A bone stock steering setup done perfectly on a 40 with radial tires is a dream to drive. Finger tip steering up to and past 75 MPH. Fix the one you got.
My 40 drives great but it the whole system must be in perfect condition.
First check the adjustment on yours.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with you. The other thing to consider is when you start trying to install a non-Ford product, like this WEEDETR box, you will have to do many things to make it work. Stay with the stock box!

Glenn
 
We put an exchange box from Lares Corp. in a '40 and sent the old box back in for the core charge.

Not a complex job.

Most important part is to get the vehicle high enough to get the length of the box and shaft out.

You mentioned you rebuilt a '39 box, '40 is the same. Only hassle is pressing the worm off and the new one on.

The change to a 525 box is more involved; but easily doable. We usually use a mount like Weedetr's along with a good used OEM box, and modify the stock column ourselves.

I suspect a '40 box is more likely to suit your needs.
 
Thankx everyone, I checked the kingpins, drag link, tie rods, greased the front end, pushed out old grease in the box and greased the steering box with new stuff, the adjustment screw was way out, probably factory set and never needed a adjustment, turned the screw in and checked the side plate where the horn wire penetrated at the box. Took up the slack in the steering wheel, and the knocking noise also disappeared.

Hardly any play in the steering. Had it up to 55 no knocking noise, leaving it like it is, if I have issues again I’ll send out and get it rebuilt….

Here’s what the ole girl looks like..Standard with jump seats in the rear..
 

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Bazooka Joe said:
Thankx everyone, I checked the kingpins, drag link, tie rods, greased the front end, pushed out old grease in the box and greased the steering box with new stuff, the adjustment screw was way out, probably factory set and never needed a adjustment, turned the screw in and checked the side plate where the horn wire penetrated at the box. Took up the slack in the steering wheel, and the knocking noise also disappeared.

Hardly any play in the steering. Had it up to 55 no knocking noise, leaving it like it is, if I have issues again I’ll send out and get it rebuilt….

Here’s what the ole girl looks like..Standard with jump seats in the rear..
Click to expand...
577437
 
Bazooka Joe said:
Thankx everyone, I checked the kingpins, drag link, tie rods, greased the front end, pushed out old grease in the box and greased the steering box with new stuff, the adjustment screw was way out, probably factory set and never needed a adjustment, turned the screw in and checked the side plate where the horn wire penetrated at the box. Took up the slack in the steering wheel, and the knocking noise also disappeared.

Hardly any play in the steering. Had it up to 55 no knocking noise, leaving it like it is, if I have issues again I’ll send out and get it rebuilt….

Here’s what the ole girl looks like..Standard with jump seats in the rear..
Click to expand...

Good, glad you found that the adjustments did the trick.
Great looking '40!
 
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