OD Solenoid seal clarification needed

[Scott52]

I am working on a 1952 R10 Overdrive. I have read Info from Mac VP, Randy Rundle and various posts to get me more familiar. My 52 Crestline had the OD R10 transmission mounted to the dead 8BA in the car when I got it.


I am getting ready to reinstall the 12V Solenoid Into the R10 on the bench.
Several sources advise to replace the seal in the transmission. I purchased a Solenoid seal, 7693R, some a couple years ago and it is not the same as the one I dug out of the solenoid, all hard solid rubber. The new one has a metal side and a smaller diameter rubber side that fits the Solenoid rod. Which way does it go into the solenoid.


Also Since the some posts and articles reference a seal in the transmission, is there a different seal that fits into the hole the solenoid goes rod goes thru to engage the pawl? I don't see one on drawings.


Thanks for any help clarifying.

 

[petehoovie]

I am working on a 1952 R10 Overdrive. I have read Info from Mac VP, Randy Rundle and various posts to get me more familiar. My 52 Crestline had the OD R10 transmission mounted to the dead 8BA in the car when I got it.


I am getting ready to reinstall the 12V Solenoid Into the R10 on the bench.
Several sources advise to replace the seal in the transmission. I purchased a Solenoid seal, 7693R, some a couple years ago and it is not the same as the one I dug out of the solenoid, all hard solid rubber. The new one has a metal side and a smaller diameter rubber side that fits the Solenoid rod. Which way does it go into the solenoid.


Also Since the some posts and articles reference a seal in the transmission, is there a different seal that fits into the hole the solenoid goes rod goes thru to engage the pawl? I don't see one on drawings.


Thanks for any help clarifying.

 

[Bob C]

This is the seal I just installed in my OD trans.

 

[Scott52]

P/N. From which supplier
And did it go into the transmission?
I am being very cautious, due to loss of brain cells due to age!

 

[Bob C]

The Ford part number is 26H-7693. The seal I used is an
SKF 3060 .312 ID, .635 OD, .175 W. It fit fine.

 

[rjlester]

I ordered the SKF 3060 seal from rockauto and installed it in my 1954 Meteor. Works fine and looks like the one in the picture Bob C posted.

 

[Scott52]

I see how I messed up. I dug out the seal in the solenoid unit itself. Now I have to disassemble it to get all the original seal out and take a measurement. I saw in an old post that Mac Van Pelt had those seals at one time but does not repair solenoids now. Anyone know a p/n or someone who repairs original solenoids?

 

[petehoovie]

I see how I messed up. I dug out the seal in the solenoid unit itself. Now I have to disassemble it to get all the original seal out and take a measurement. I saw in an old post that Mac Van Pelt had those seals at one time but does not repair solenoids now. Anyone know a p/n or someone who repairs original solenoids?

 

[Scott52]

Bringing back a thread that didn't spark a lot of interest. But I hate being left hanging and wondering how a problem got solved. And someone might mess up like I did in the future. I ordered two O rings from McMaster-Carr, a square profile and a round profile. The square was too small and the round was just right. 1/8 cross section .294 ID and .574 OD. The shaft diameter was .305. Disassembling the solenoid was easy. You need to mark the plunger orientation as it has a hex shaft than can go in six ways. The toughest part was cleaning out the old seal. It was either very hard and brittle old rubber or really glued in there. Various picks did the job. I reassembled solenoid and energized it (a few youtube videos can help here). With the shaft extended added a small amount of silicon grease on the shaft with out getting any on the seal surface. Luckily the hole the shaft protrudes through is quite a bit bigger diameter than the shaft. With she shaft still extended, put the O ring on the shaft and press it down into the seal area until it bottoms out. I used a long socket to help with this but was not a big deal. De-engergize the solenoid and the shaft passes down through the O ring. I then "glued" it in place with 3M Black Weather strip adhesive. Sat overnight and looks good.
As an added bonus for reading the conclusion, anyone who wants a couple of the O rings, (I had to buy 100 each) can have a couple for free and I'll pay the postage.

 

[petehoovie]

Bringing back a thread that didn't spark a lot of interest. But I hate being left hanging and wondering how a problem got solved. And someone might mess up like I did in the future. I ordered two O rings from McMaster-Carr, a square profile and a round profile. The square was too small and the round was just right. 1/8 cross section .294 ID and .574 OD. The shaft diameter was .305. Disassembling the solenoid was easy. You need to mark the plunger orientation as it has a hex shaft than can go in six ways. The toughest part was cleaning out the old seal. It was either very hard and brittle old rubber or really glued in there. Various picks did the job. I reassembled solenoid and energized it (a few youtube videos can help here). With the shaft extended added a small amount of silicon grease on the shaft with out getting any on the seal surface. Luckily the hole the shaft protrudes through is quite a bit bigger diameter than the shaft. With she shaft still extended, put the O ring on the shaft and press it down into the seal area until it bottoms out. I used a long socket to help with this but was not a big deal. De-engergize the solenoid and the shaft passes down through the O ring. I then "glued" it in place with 3M Black Weather strip adhesive. Sat overnight and looks good.
As an added bonus for reading the conclusion, anyone who wants a couple of the O rings, (I had to buy 100 each) can have a couple for free and I'll pay the postage.

 

[40cpe]

thanks for closing the loop on this thread. It will no doubt help someone in the future.