1931 Deluxe Roadster Door Strike

Lona

Well-known member
When I bought my roadster several years ago, the passenger side door would not close properly. The handle bolt would not catch in the strike and click to keep the door closed. The driver side door worked fine. No amount of adjusting the strike could make it close and fasten properly.

In trying to fix the problem, I noticed the two strikes are a little different. Per the photo attached, the yellow one appears to be original while the black one looks like a modern replacement. The black one is on the passenger side door which does not fasten correctly. I took the yellow one off the driver side and when I put it on the passenger side, it worked fine.

Looking at the two together, I noticed the black one is made with a 90 degree angle while the yellow one which works on either door has a slanted back, somewhat more than 90 degrees.

Looking at replacements from several of our great vendors, it appears they are all offering the shape of my black one which I can't get to work properly.

Can anyone advise where I can get a replacement strike like my original? A used one would be fine as I am in the process of painting the car anyway,

Glen
 

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Maybe it's the photo but it looks as if there is enough material on the reproduction one that could be filed away to match the profile of the original one.
 
Here's a better photo showing the difference. I've checked with Berts and several other vendors who all show the vertical back black strike but not the one I have. All of their descriptions say the black one is for roadsters and phaetons but for some reason, that shape will not work on my car
 

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The only ones with correct shape that I am aware of are Bob Drakes stainless ones. They sell them as 1932 (which they are... the interchange is 1928-32). I stock them.
 
Karl,
Thanks for your reply. I checked Bob Drake's website and his '32 strikes are similar in shape but appear to be 90 degrees rather than the slanted back of mine. You mention you stock them. Are yours right angled or slanted and what would be the price of one? Drake sells them in pairs at $36.99 per set and they are stainless steel.
 
Seven months after the last post on trying to find the correct door strike for my '31 roadster door, I have still not found one. I'm posting the same request again in the hope some members did not see the original post or that some new folks will see this.

I would very much appreciate hearing from anyone who can help me find a strike that will work on my car.

Glen
 
Hello, I had a similar experience, I put a large pry bar in between the mounting area and ‘hook’ area and careful bent the repro latch until it would catch on lock . Didn’t take much, also you might want to check the lock assembly for wear , repro are available but the welds on them are some what poor, or disassemble the original, weld up the latch and reshape it, also check for weak or broken spring.
 
Hello, I had a similar experience, I put a large pry bar in between the mounting area and ‘hook’ area and careful bent the repro latch until it would catch on lock . Didn’t take much, also you might want to check the lock assembly for wear , repro are available but the welds on them are some what poor, or disassemble the original, weld up the latch and reshape it, also check for weak or broken spring.

Thanks, not a bad idea to cut the one that won't work and reweld it to the same shape as the good one. The strike is a beefy chunk of steel ... don't see how you could bend it but that's worth a try too.

Glen
 
Hello again, I was referring to latch assembly in the door, the part that latches to the part you are referring to. Four screws hold it to the inner door also check the hinges for wear and door alignment. Body blocks should be tight, roadster bodies are quite flexible if everything isn’t tight.
 
As Karl Westcott stated above, the ones that are correct shape and should work are the Bob Drake 1932 ones sold by Drake, Westcott's and likely others. The originals were apparently unchanged from 1928-32, and I'm not sure but 26-27 Model T were apparently the same also according to some sources. Have you tried the Drake ones? Picture from an old thread:

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1926-27 are different from 1928-32 as there is a wedge cast between the tang and the mount plane, the latch has a corresponding V cut out. This acts as a dovetail. There is a small possibility that the 1926-27 one may have shown up on some extremely early 1928's, as I have seen at least one 1928 latch with the V cutout.


As Karl Westcott stated above, the ones that are correct shape and should work are the Bob Drake 1932 ones sold by Drake, Westcott's and likely others. The originals were apparently unchanged from 1928-32, and I'm not sure but 26-27 Model T were apparently the same also according to some sources. Have you tried the Drake ones? Picture from an old thread:

-
575657
 
As Karl Westcott stated above, the ones that are correct shape and should work are the Bob Drake 1932 ones sold by Drake, Westcott's and likely others. The originals were apparently unchanged from 1928-32, and I'm not sure but 26-27 Model T were apparently the same also according to some sources. Have you tried the Drake ones? Picture from an old thread:

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575657

I really appreciate this input. The center striker in your photo has a slanted back, just what I need. However, I contacted Bob Drake and they were good enough to send me photos of their striker. One shows it on a desk pressed against a wall, clearly showing it is 90 degrees and not the slanted one I need. Wonder where the one in your photo came from..... maybe someone will recognize it as coming from some other car make and year. As was said above, there are probably some of these lying around in the parts bins of many Model A old timers. Problem is finding them. I'll keep on looking or cut off the back of mine and re-weld it with the proper angle.

I also went through the CG Ford Parts Co. on-line catalog. They show several strikers for newer Fords but none match what I need.

Glen
 
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