removing rear axle key?

Kube

Kube

Super Moderator
Okay, go ahead and give me crap but after all these years I have a key that I can't remove. Very clean car, no damage in that area whatsoever.

I know I'm getting older and forgetting more but yikes, what am I missing here?

Thanks guys.
 
Do you have the drum off? If yes, use a brass drift with a hammer, straight on the end of the key. The key will move inboard, and slide up the ramp and out.
 
I'm not that nice, no brass needed, whack it with a chisel or punch. Another method is clamp your sharpest vice grips on, and whack on that for a while. Any burrs or other destruction from my methods can be ground off, filed off, or replace the key.

Not a big issue IMHO
 
I use cas3's method. Smallest chisel on the inboard side where the keyway cut into the axle shaft is "sloped" and start giving it some whacks. Eventually the pressure should get the keyway to lift.

After fighting a few, I've started "fitting" them prior to installation. If super tight, I'll use some lapping compound to square it up so it fits snug, but not tight enough that it causes the issue you are encountering now.

Good luck. They can be bear to remove at times.
 
I have used all of the advised methods and simply can't budge either side. My next step (later today) is to slice each right down the middle. That should allow me to "crush" the key(s) inward and break their grip.
 
don't read any further unless you're a "glass half empty" guy...but,

i would be wondering if my drums were not torqued on to the tapered axle properly, and forced to do the major work under braking and/or acceleration to prevent the drum from turning on the end of the axles(s). if so, it might be bent or even be permanently galled to it.

it would be nice to see a pic. :)
 
The last one I did, was a real chore to get out. Eventually it did. My right forearm looked like Popeye's from the workout. LOL!
 
You might also consider some heat on the axle end - maybe it will expand a bit and the key will come out a bit easier.
 
hueyhoolihan said:
don't read any further unless you're a "glass half empty" guy...but,

i would be wondering if my drums were not torqued on to the tapered axle properly, and forced to do the major work under braking and/or acceleration to prevent the drum from turning on the end of the axles(s). if so, it might be bent or even be permanently galled to it.

it would be nice to see a pic. :)
Click to expand...

Good points but the axles are beautiful, the drums fit great.
I have worked on a zillion of these. This is the first time I have had so much trouble as not be able to remove the keys.
 
Another method,if available is to use the TIG torch to heat the top side of the key...even a short bead from a MIG welder will work. Breaks the bond.
 
Larger good quality diagonal cutters have been my go-to for stubborn keys. Worked slowly should at least get it moving upward.

Pat
 
I'd use a heat gun and get it up to 300-400 degrees which won't do any harm, that is change the properties of the axle. Before this find a a piece of plate that is about the same width and length as the key. Put is in the freezer. The larger the the piece the better away from what you'll use as the contact area against the key.

Heat it up Then grab the "quencher". Between the heat and the contraction of just the key, you should be able to hammer it out toward the center section.
 
Got them! I ended up cutting each key lengthwise and still had to beat the s--- out them. I must be getting old (read: weaker).
Thanks guys!
 
When I install new keys I add a slight chamfer to the lower outer edge of the key. So a tool can start to lift the key in that area.
 
The sharp top inner edge caught a the drum of a V8ers car-could not get the drum off. I slightly bevel that top inner edge now. Newc
 
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