King Pins

Woodie1

Woodie1

Well-known member
I went for a front toe in adjustment this morning & was told that the toe in was fine but one of the king pins was about out of spec. Is it possible to replace the king pins & bushings on a 1939 sedan without messing with the brakes? I don't want to have to rebleed the system if I can avoid it.
 
Woodie1 said:
I went for a front toe in adjustment this morning & was told that the toe in was fine but one of the king pins was about out of spec. Is it possible to replace the king pins & bushings on a 1939 sedan without messing with the brakes? I don't want to have to rebleed the system if I can avoid it.
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Yes, very possible and very doable.
Just don't remove the brake line.
You will of course need to remove the spindle assembly from the backing plate. But again, leave the wheel cylinder (line) attached.
 
That was what I was hoping for Kube. Didn't know if the backing plate could come off with the brake line still attached.
 
Woodie1 said:
That was what I was hoping for Kube. Didn't know if the backing plate could come off with the brake line still attached.
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Oh sure.
Me? I'd get all four nuts that hold the backing plate to the spindle ready to come off. In other words, pins removed, nuts loose and ready to remove. Then remove spindle pin and then remove the four nuts.
 
Bleeding the brakes would be the easiest part of the job. I've never attempted to do pins and bushings on the car, always axle out and use a big press to get the pins out. Normally, quite a fight. You can still leave the backing plates dangle with hose connected as above, but I'd be doing wheel cylinders and bearings while you're already there.
 
I rebuilt my front axle and had new king pins and bushings installed. When I went to connect the mechanical brakes I realized that I had installed the left king pin on the right side and vice versa. Rookie mistake. Off came the drums and then the backing plates and a few other parts. The king pins pulled out with no problem and went back into the correct side. The bushings were honed at an old-time shop and were a perfect fit - snug but don't bind. It was a pain to disassemble everything and then re-assemble all the parts just to get back to where it was supposed to be in the first place, but a good learning experience.
Hope your king pins come out as easily.
 
Model51 said:
I rebuilt my front axle and had new king pins and bushings installed. When I went to connect the mechanical brakes I realized that I had installed the left king pin on the right side and vice versa. Rookie mistake. Off came the drums and then the backing plates and a few other parts. The king pins pulled out with no problem and went back into the correct side. The bushings were honed at an old-time shop and were a perfect fit - snug but don't bind. It was a pain to disassemble everything and then re-assemble all the parts just to get back to where it was supposed to be in the first place, but a good learning experience.
Hope your king pins come out as easily.
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The spindle pins on a '39 are identical so can be placed left or right.
 
cas3 said:
Bleeding the brakes would be the easiest part of the job. I've never attempted to do pins and bushings on the car, always axle out and use a big press to get the pins out. Normally, quite a fight. You can still leave the backing plates dangle with hose connected as above, but I'd be doing wheel cylinders and bearings while you're already there.
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I have heard many such horror stories.
I believe I have been lucky, heck, I KNOW I have been lucky. I have never spent more than a half hour on any old pin removal. Even prior to getting the bolt on KRW press, none took more than a number of whacks with a 4# hammer to move them out.
To me, it was always a bigger PITA to remove the backing plate to spindle nuts / cotter pins.
 
Kube said:
I have heard many such horror stories.
I believe I have been lucky, heck, I KNOW I have been lucky. I have never spent more than a half hour on any old pin removal. Even prior to getting the bolt on KRW press, none took more than a number of whacks with a 4# hammer to move them out.
To me, it was always a bigger PITA to remove the backing plate to spindle nuts / cotter pins.
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couldn't agree more! two days ago i removed a rear backing plate and those nuts and cotters were a nightmare! i'm desperately thinking of ways to avoid replacing them. so far, my only thought is to use red locktite. i honestly have no idea how they managed to get them in!
 
cas3 said:
Bleeding the brakes would be the easiest part of the job. I've never attempted to do pins and bushings on the car, always axle out and use a big press to get the pins out. Normally, quite a fight. You can still leave the backing plates dangle with hose connected as above, but I'd be doing wheel cylinders and bearings while you're already there.
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This is the exact reason why I hunted down a vintage Snap On king pin press. Bonus was it also included the attachments to pull perch pins. Thankfully, I haven't had to use it yet.
 
Tim Ayers said:
This is the exact reason why I hunted down a vintage Snap On king pin press. Bonus was it also included the attachments to pull perch pins. Thankfully, I haven't had to use it yet.
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That's a good deal. I've had many more and more difficult problems with perch pins than king pins.
 
The trick I used to get the cotter pins installed was to see where the hole in the bolt was before putting a castle nut on. I attached a wrench to the bolt head and kept the wrench in the same position so the hole didn't change orientation. Then tightened the nut until secure enough and one of the castle nut slots lined up where the hole should be. I got the cotter pin to slide in most of them the first time. I also bent the rounded head of the cotter pin so it was a bit off-centered so most of the head was on the side of the castle nut so the cotter would slide all the way into the slot and not hang up.
 
I'm not a purist, I try and make life easier...instead of using castellated nuts and splitpins, I use nyloc nuts. Never, reuse a nyloc nut, they are single use only. Definitely easier to dis assemble next time you're in there....backing plate bolts, torque tube to back of trans, spring shackle studs
 
Brake fluid is supposed to be replaced every two-years because it attracts moisture to it, I was an ASE licensed brake mechanic. I'm bad, I don't change it on my cars either but when I do have to replace brakes or a project like you're doing then I bleed the brakes and get that old fluid out of there. Just remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder and cap the line, then you'll just need to bleed the one cylinder, but I would bleed them all.
 
Flathead Fever said:
Brake fluid is supposed to be replaced every two-years because it attracts moisture to it, I was an ASE licensed brake mechanic. I'm bad, I don't change it on my cars either but when I do have to replace brakes or a project like you're doing then I bleed the brakes and get that old fluid out of there. Just remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder and cap the line, then you'll just need to bleed the one cylinder, but I would bleed them all.
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Thank you. This reminded me I need to change mine
 
Brian said:
I'm not a purist, I try and make life easier...instead of using castellated nuts and splitpins, I use nyloc nuts. Never, reuse a nyloc nut, they are single use only. Definitely easier to dis assemble next time you're in there....backing plate bolts, torque tube to back of trans, spring shackle studs
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Brian, I was just now thinking of suggesting the original poster use the later (42-48?) Marsden nuts. I believe that's when Ford switched away from the slotted hex nuts.
However, it would be easier for the poster to obtain the modern Nyloc nuts as you suggest.
Installing the new cotter pins has been easy for me. Removing the old ones has proven to be a challenge at times.
 
Tim Ayers said:
This is the exact reason why I hunted down a vintage Snap On king pin press. Bonus was it also included the attachments to pull perch pins. Thankfully, I haven't had to use it yet.
Click to expand...

Tim do you have a picture or part # for this press, I’ll keep my eye out for one at swap meets.
 
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