S.E. Pennsylvania Shop Referrals 39 Steering Column

S

smullen17

Junior Member
Looking for a shop in the S.E. Pennsylvania area that can help with 39 Conv Cpe steering column. Any referrals are greatly appreciated.
 
What are you needing to do with the column? If we know what you want to do there is lots of advice so you can do it yourself.
 
The steering wheel appears to be loose. I can move the steering wheel up and down on the spline. My understanding is at the bottom of the steering column in the engine compartment, there is a bale to release and then a c-clip? I am trying to get a clear idea of how to get the horn button out. I know it is a long tube. Thanks.
 
The steering wheel sits on a taper, no splines. Nut could be loose.
On the bottom, unclip the bail, then the housing needs a twist, about 1/4" to pull off.
I forget which direction, but you can see a raised bump on the can that shows how it works. Then, the 2 prong fork gets pushed up towards the wheel and a C clip will appear, bump that clip out and the horn rod will pull straight out. Lucky for you to have a rag top because in a closed car the ceiling is not high enough to get the rod out, you must drop the steering box. Be careful not to bend the rod! Also, when pushing on the fork thingy, the whole rod will want to move up. So, have some one hold the horn /light button down at the wheel, or with a yard stick or similar flexible thing woven thru the steering wheel you can do it alone
 
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Thank You cas3 for the info. I have attached pics of the gaps in the steering wheel when moving back and forth and also what looks like splines. Thank you for any follow up info.
 

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Looks like the "splines" are the rubber upper column bushing that has worked it's way upward. Pull the horn rod, then the wheel, fish out the old bushing, tap a new down into the column, install the wheel & horn rod, and loosen the clamp on the base of the column, slide up to minimize the gap, tighten the clamp, and you should be good to go.
 
yup, thats a lot of gap, and yup those look like splines...but it can't be. Your car looks all stock, I believe we may be looking at the remains of the rubber bushing, or a bearing someone has put in there. People do weld on a GM type of spline stub for using a different steering wheel, but I don't think thats the case here, looks all Ford to me.

Its not a tough job, are you planning to do it yourself? I would be concerned about driving it as the nut may be ready to fall off!
 
Good advice as usual from Rich B, is the wheel actually moving up and down, or has the tube moved?
 
Thanks for all the great info. This car is all original except engine and top. Has a '53 115hp. Have the original 85hp. My father bought it in 1953. To my knowledge and memory nothing has been done to the steering. I would like to do the work myself. The plan seems to be to get the bale off and c clip out and horn button should slide out and we'll go from there. Let me know if I am missing anything. I will post some pics once I get the horn button out. Hopefully this weekend.
 
Thanks Pete for the photos. First thing I would do, put a drain pan under it and wash with starting fluid and a rag. I can see in the photos the bump on each side that is the "lock" that needs a twist to open. Once clean, you will see it.

Inside, you will find an oily mess, wash that too with starting fluid.

Once you get it all cleaned up you will have an easy project. The oil leak is usually the tube that goes up into the box above oil level, and they were only crimped by Ford, today many folks silver solder them to stop the leak. That can be done easily at this point as you are already there. Another alternative is use John Deere corn head grease in the box, Its made to flow when warm, and set up stiff when cold so it stays in the box instead of on your garage floor.

Very cool its been in the family so long! lets see some pics!
 
I'm curious Skip, why you recommend "Starting Fluid" rather than something less flammable, like brake cleaner? Has it got something to do with cleaning electrical components? Even with the battery disconnected and out of the car, the whole idea makes ne nervous. I would think something less flammable to start and then maybe finish up with some specialized electronics cleaner if necessary.
 
I like starting fluid because its cheap (usta be), evaporates quick and is not so toxic on your skin as brake clean and others similar.
 
Every time I see a nice one, it confirms the fact that I believe the '39 DeLuxe to be the best expression of this period of Ford styling. This is despite the fascination I had with certain '40 DeLuxe models when I was a callow teen-ager. Your taste in cars clears up, just like your skin.
 
Tubman--My father shared your sentiment. My father saved the original bumpers. He always liked the 40 bumper and grill guard combo
 
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