Clutch/Pressure Plate R/R

[Canton_Model_A's]

Guys/Gals:

I am going to be replacing the clutch and pressure plate here in the next month or so. I have already gotten all the parts, Including the spring spreader from Snyders.

My question to the group, is how do you attach the spreader to the rear end so I can get the bolts out of the shackles. Oh and I am also replacing those as well. (Both bolts and shackles)

Images/Pictures/Video would be great here. This will be a interesting task.

 

[Phil Brown]

You stick the flat end of the spreader in the spring where it rolls back on itself and forms the eye for the shackle (between the spring flat and the rolled eye) Pressure from the spreader will hold it there, but they CAN slip and move a bit. Go slow and easy your first time as you crank out the spreader.
Sorry don't have any pictures of one in use but it is pretty easy once you get started

 

[Mulletwagon]

This should help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwT3lhhOWm0

Also plan on changimg all the bushings which will require a reamer after the bushings are pressed in. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck.

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

Some guys like to detach the spring while it is still in the rear crossmember and then drop the rear end assembly. Others drop the whole unit and then remove the spring. I prefer the second method. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, both can be dangerous if certain safety precautions are not observed.
If you drop the whole unit with the rear spring still attached, be sure to immediately affix a large C-Clamp over the center of the spring once it clears the cross member to prevent the upper spring leaves from flying apart if the center bolt is broken or weak from rust. The bottom leaves that are under more compression and tension will stay together if the two spring clamps are left in place. Since you are not going to separate the leaves, keep the spreader and C-Clamp in place while you change clutches. That way, everything should go right back together smoothly. The ends of the spring will still be the correct distance apart in order to insert the spring hangers (shackles).
Marshall

 

[Canton_Model_A's]

I don't plan on removing the leaf spring out of the car. so I would just leave the spreader in place while I redo the shackles. and then reassemble.

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

Quite correct, it is not necessary to take the spring off the rear axle to change clutches. However, this is the best time to disassemble the rear spring and repair the leaf ends by grinding out depressions caused by the leaves above digging into the ones below, as well as grinding the three corners on each leaf bottom at a 45 degree angle to prevent future gouging. With the spring apart and the leaves repaired in this manner, you can then apply a graphite lubricant (like Slip-Plate) to the bottoms of each leaf (except the bottom main leaf). Chances are that the leaves in your spring are rusted together from lack of lubrication, unless the spring was properly restored in the last few years or someone went to the trouble of spreading the leaves and forcing lube in between them, not an easy thing to do. Then the spring no longer acts like a spring because the leaves are rusted together into one big chunk of steel and have lost the designed-in springing action where the leaves slide across each other. A rusted, dry rear spring will affect the ride and handling characteristics.
Your call, but I think this is the perfect opportunity to address this often- overlooked area in the Model A. You'll also eliminate some of those pesky squeaking noises when you hit a bump in the road. Most of those are caused by dried-out front and rear springs, as well as dried out shackles in need of grease.
Marshall

 

[Tom Endy]

This is the safe way to go about it. collapse the spring spreader before attempting to drive the shackle bushings out as you could easily launch the spreader.

http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/The-rear-spring.pdf

Tom Endy

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

This is how repaired rear spring leaves will look with the gouges in the topsides ground down and the bottom edges beveled on the three sides. Afterwards I used a finer grit disk on the spring leaf tops and smoothed out the coarse grinding disk swirl marks. The tops were painted semi-gloss black and the bottom sides were coated with a graphite lube, such as EZ Slide or Slip Plate.

Yup - A lot of work to repair a Model A spring. But to have a healthy, lively rear spring instead of a solid chunk of stacked, dead metal, it's worth the effort.

And you thought you were only going to change clutches!
Marshall

 

[Canton_Model_A's]

I had not planned on re-working the spring this year. it was just to do the Clutch/Pressure plate. Maybe in 2026 I will re-work the leaf spring and take care of it.

 

[JayJay]

This is how repaired rear spring leaves will look with the gouges in the topsides ground down and the bottom edges beveled on the three sides. Afterwards I used a finer grit disk on the spring leaf tops and smoothed out the coarse grinding disk swirl marks. The tops were painted semi-gloss black and the bottom sides were coated with a graphite lube, such as EZ Slide or Slip Plate.

Yup - A lot of work to repair a Model A spring. But to have a healthy, lively rear spring instead of a solid chunk of stacked, dead metal, it's worth the effort.

And you thought you were only going to change clutches!
Marshall

This is more or less how I did both the front and back springs on my '30 TS resto project, but aftger polishing smooth I painted top and bottom of the leaves with the graphite paint. Dang, was that stuff messy!

 

[Y-Blockhead]

This is more or less how I did both the front and back springs on my '30 TS resto project, but aftger polishing smooth I painted top and bottom of the leaves with the graphite paint. Dang, was that stuff messy!

I use slip plate on my exhaust manifold. Makes a nice finish and protects from rusting. Use sparingly. I use the spray on a chip brush.

 

[Canton_Model_A's]

Another crazy question. When I take off the torque tube from the rear of the transmission, what gaskets will I need to replace. My preferred vendor is Snyders.

The 'Bible' states "Place Gaskets and inner cover over the U-Joint".......

 

[Y-Blockhead]

U-Joint gasket set from Snyder's https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=978993&cat=41756

 

[Canton_Model_A's]

Thank you Y-Blockhead. I have the set on order, will be here tomorrow. Also ordered another bottle of 600W oil to add to the collection

 

[Mulletwagon]

Be sure and check your U-Joint. Now would be the time to change it if there is any significant wear. Finding a good replacement can be challenging.