hey guys, check out my waterpump!

firefirefire90

firefirefire90

Member
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IMG_0389.jpg


tasty looking engine huh? I guess i need to order a new water pump and somehow flush out the engine. Any tips for that?
 
That's exactly why I always like to use antifreeze. When was the engine last run?

Without taking the engine apart and sandblasting I don't know how you'll get rid of all that rust.
 
It's not the water pump or the likely equally rusty block and head that concern me. It's the radiator. Even if you successfully flush the engine and head by running it hot with several cycles of oxalic acid, detergent, rinse, the radiator will need to be turned upside down and back flushed as a final step. If the engine has not yet been run, fouling the radiator with scale and flakes, place a nylon sock in the upper hose as a temporary filter during cleaning. I've seen worse.
 
If you want to clean out your block there is a way.I post the question on the old fordbarn and received an answer form Ron in Kansas 03/21/2010 6:30 PM just in case you can still access the archives. He used Muriatic Acid and soda wash to flush it out. Richard/Ca
 
Well the radiator was taken out as well today so well treat the radiator the same. So how long should I let the coke/acid mix settle? Also, what's the best waterpump to go with? I read they need to be regreased every 500miles... Is this true?
 
You need to put a sock or panty hose in the top outlet to catch all the scale coming out of the block, Rebuild your own pump with stainless shaft & seals , don,t forget a coller to set end float. Derek from a warm again , drying out NZ
 
Muriatic acid I believe will strip the lead out of your radiator in short order. It would be painfull to ruin your original parts ... so maybe speak with an experianced radiator guy 1st.
Most old rads have multible plugged tubes and require removal of a tank and carefull rodding to remove rust, rocks & debis.
(I removed my bottom tank and was shocked!)

If you're still listening.....in the block you want to be carefull to completely neutralize the stuff with lotsa soda and scrub all your tools clean with soda afterwards or everything turns to a rusted mess.
Not trying to sound like a know-it-all, but muriatic acid REALLY WORKS well so it's good to experiment with some junk parts and protect your skin & eyes especially. Good luck.
 
I've never put this in an engine, but I have used it to de-rust metal and it is next to amazing. This stuff really works. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html

Remove rust in seconds without scrubbing. Evapo-Rust™ is so effective it is used by the 4th Infantry Division to maintain the M1A1 Abrams battle tank.

  • Removes even heavy rust completely
  • Easy to use, just soak parts in room temperature solution
  • Requires no special equipment
  • No acids, bases, solvents or other toxic ingredients
  • Will not harm unrusted steel, safe on other metals
  • Biodegradable—can be disposed of safely into sewer
  • One gallon derusts up to 300 pounds of heavily rusted steel
  • Will not affect plastic, PVC, Viton and most paints
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Some of the DFW guys have had good luck putting a little tide detergent in the engine and running it. gets nice and soapy and then you flush. I don't think that would get rid of your rust problem.
 
Sorry I should have said DO NOT to use Muriatic acid in the radiator. Thanks for catching that Craig. Richard/Ca
 
msmaron said:
Do you think this is SAFE to put in a radiator?
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The description says:

  • No acids, bases, solvents or other toxic ingredients
  • Will not harm unrusted steel, safe on other metals
This leads me to believe that it is safe.

I've used this on some jukebox parts (inside not seen) that had steel, copper, pot metal and rubber all on the same part and it took the rust off the steel, made the copper a little tarnished, but a simple polish made it shiney again, and didn't affect the rubber.
 
Elrod said:
The description says:

  • No acids, bases, solvents or other toxic ingredients
  • Will not harm unrusted steel, safe on other metals
This leads me to believe that it is safe.

I've used this on some jukebox parts (inside not seen) that had steel, copper, pot metal and rubber all on the same part and it took the rust off the steel, made the copper a little tarnished, but a simple polish made it shiney again, and didn't affect the rubber.
Click to expand...


is it safe to leave in the head overnight?
 
firefirefire90 said:
is it safe to leave in the head overnight?
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I used Evaporust on my gas tank and ended up leaving it in the tank for 5 days with no ill results at all. I had bolts and screws in the tank, hung it in the garage and kept turning and shaking it. The stuff works wonders!

For this product to work the parts must be submerged so you will need to fill up the entire block with it. Seal off the outlet and fill it up. I do not know how much it will take to fill the block though. Should do the trick in my opinion. You can even filter this stuff and reuse it.
 
I was surprised at how well this evaporust works. I have only used it on rusted parts but it does a great job of removing rust from old parts.
 
Wait wait... Why are you emptying the oil pan? Aren't you cleaning out the water passages? You don't empty the oil pan and then fill up the radiator hole with this. Chances are your oil pan area is fine since it's had oil in it. Your water pump is rusted because it has water there.

I have noticed that when you drain the stuff off the part, you are going to have to flush it pretty good because it is kind of slippery. Water has done a pretty decent job but I've sometimes helped it along by just rubbing my hands over the part to really get the slippery residue off
 
good advice all, you can PVC the upper radiator hose and then hook a garden hose up the fitting fire the motor up and let the rust scale and other flush out the bottom, saves on the stockings your wife will thank you
 
Elrod said:
Wait wait... Why are you emptying the oil pan? Aren't you cleaning out the water passages? You don't empty the oil pan and then fill up the radiator hole with this. Chances are your oil pan area is fine since it's had oil in it. Your water pump is rusted because it has water there.

I have noticed that when you drain the stuff off the part, you are going to have to flush it pretty good because it is kind of slippery. Water has done a pretty decent job but I've sometimes helped it along by just rubbing my hands over the part to really get the slippery residue off
Click to expand...

I understand this. I was just going to empty it anyway in case of any leakdown through the rings.

allen said:
good advice all, you can PVC the upper radiator hose and then hook a garden hose up the fitting fire the motor up and let the rust scale and other flush out the bottom, saves on the stockings your wife will thank you
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As I am only 20 years old, I don't think that will be a problem :D

bruce of mn said:
Here's my pump last year.
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Was your pump all seized up? Did you end up replacing it or just rebuilt it?


Many thanks all!
 
Was your pump all seized up? Did you end up replacing it or just rebuilt it?

I can't remember if I tried to turn it. The car had been sitting for 15 years and there were other seized parts, such as valves. I rebuilt it with a kit. The housing was the only old part, so not much different from all new.
 
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