1940 P/U WOC1 - Project

[hotrodart]

Outstanding!! Terrific project and work......keep the pix coming......

 

[James Y]

More pics of new floor. I purchased a cab wood mounting kit but was not happy with quality, i had some original pieces from the 40 cab and copied them best i could. Turned out better than the hacky aftermarket wood pieces, made them out of fir. Maybe not Oak but I think once they are stained and for the time they will be exposed should be good for another 50 years or so.

 

[James Y]

This is when we start too slow down. It’s now December 2020, still working on the sheet metal, the original hood hinge plates were all bent up and I could not figure out the proper geometry. I still had the donor big truck cab and sheet metal and realized that the hood hinge plates were almost exactly the same as the 40 hood, I cut them out of the donor hood and carefully installed onto the 40 hood. Now at least the geometry of the original hood was restored.

 

[hotrodA]

Great project!

 

[James Y]

Cab corners are next both inner and outer, first welding on the sheet metal , not the best but not the worst job either.

 

[James Y]

Fitted the old fenders and hood, tried to make the best I could.

 

[James Y]

I need rear fenders and I could not find anything that would match up the dimensions I needed. I needed a 40” diameter fender, the cheap Princess Auto tandem trailer fenders were close to the diameter just needed to cut the centre section out and they ended up working, also had to make wider and make a lip on the outside. Lots of welding and grinding but also managed to improve my welding skills.

 

[James Y]

Box installed and tool boxes mounted, fittted the fenders to the running boards. On the ground. Still some more pieces to be made up.

 

[GB SISSON]

Looking great. Teaching yourself to weld can be a real challenge. After 15 years mine are respectable, but yours look better. You got those fenders the hard way, but you'll always be happy you did it correctly. Carry on.

 

[tubman]

Excellent work! If you can't find what you need, you can either sit down and complain about it or make it. You obviously made the right decision here. I agree with GB, "carry on".

 

[James Y]

THx, now it all comes apart for painting, going to leave the original rusty cab, hood and front fenders, black running boards and rear fenders, army green rear box and tool boxes. That’s going to be the theme for now, I wanted to keep the option open to put a original box and fenders on.

 

[Flattop]

Great project! Very interesting!

 

[deuce5wndw]

Outstanding!!!!!!

 

[James Y]

Still at it, very slowly. Goal this year is to move under its own power.

I do have a couple of questions for the experts.

My front bumper bar is 1/4” from the centre grill, should I be worried about the movement of the frame to grill? Should I move the bumper out further and if so how much?

 

[James Y]

Also the engine is a 8BA, I have added the PCV valve and now I need to add the oil filler tube, question is can I shorten the tube, or is the tube a specific length for a reason?

 

[tubman]

Also the engine is a 8BA, I have added the PCV valve and now I need to add the oil filler tube, question is can I shorten the tube, or is the tube a specific length for a reason?

I think it's a good idea for you to consider this. I thought that the stock oil fill tube on my '51 looked tall and awkward, so I replaced the stock unit with a really attractive chrome tube about 6" long. The next time I checked the oil, the right side of the engine was covered with oil. Long story short? The oil fill tube has to be that long in order to get it up in the airflow over the engine. Shortening it causes it to be down in the draft area of the fan which creates a low pressure are around the oil filler cap and makes the road draft work backwards from the way it should. Of course, your situation may be different because of the difference in years.