Brakes on a Model A
- Thread starter dac
- Start date
Not ideal, but will work. The biggest issue with the steel drums is fade. So worst case is that you may suffer from partial fade as opposed to complete fade. But best would be to replace them all.
It was/is common practice to turn brake drums true each time you did a brake job (wear surface replacement). So you might want to check those 90-year old rear drums for thickness. I believe the recommended minimum thickness for the steel drums is 0.125" (1/8").
nkaminar
Well-known member
Yes and no. I think it would be OK as a temporary fix, but in the long run you will want cast iron all the way around. It depends on the condition of the steel drums in the rear too. They should be pretty close to 0.120 thick. It also depends on how you drive your car and where you live. If you do a lot of driving, like tours, then it would be best to replace the rears too. But if you just drive around town and maybe to the ice cream store then it will be OK. If you live in an area where there are long grades to descend then your better off with the cast iron drums in back.
If you put the cast iron drums on the front but not the back, bias the brakes to the front when you adjust them. This means that the front brakes will start to drag before the rear instead of the other way around. Even with cast iron drums at all 4 corners it is better to bias the brakes to the front.
As JayJay said, the steel drums will fade and stop working if they get hot.
Where do you live, Dac?
If you put the cast iron drums on the front but not the back, bias the brakes to the front when you adjust them. This means that the front brakes will start to drag before the rear instead of the other way around. Even with cast iron drums at all 4 corners it is better to bias the brakes to the front.
As JayJay said, the steel drums will fade and stop working if they get hot.
Where do you live, Dac?
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J Franklin
Well-known member
If you do it you will be halfway there!
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I know guys that have PUs that put cast on front only and adjust for slight front bias to prevent the rear from locking up because the rear is so light. Seems to work for them.
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Canton_Model_A's
Senior Member
I eventually will get the cast drums, will just have to find someone with a press so I can swedge in the studs. Guess while I am at it, get new hubs too.
Higher priorities this year, Clutch and PP and throw-out bearing. It has to drive before it can stop.
Higher priorities this year, Clutch and PP and throw-out bearing. It has to drive before it can stop.
Synchro909
Well-known member
I have intentionally left the steel drums on the back of my Phaeton and put cast ones on the front. My reasoning is Henry gave the rear too much bias. He gave the rear 150% what he gave the front. NO ONE does anything like that these days. I figured that by leaving the rears as they were and improving the front, I was getting closer to the 60% on the front that we should all aim for. At a brake workshop day run by our club, my setup was easily the best performer on the day. Stopped dead in 19 feet from 20 mph with a beefy sort of guy in the passenger seat.
I'll be leaving it that way other than new woven linings on the front and the wedge guide with the pin through it. I won't be putting cast drums on the back.
Just my experience, not theory.
I'll be leaving it that way other than new woven linings on the front and the wedge guide with the pin through it. I won't be putting cast drums on the back.
Just my experience, not theory.
Joe K
Well-known member
That would be me. (29CC pickup)
I normally set brakes a little heavy on the front. My rationale is that Henry had it wrong by putting the majority stopping effort to the rear (in an attempt to prevent the car from "swinging around" in a stop) and that better that most braking effect be at the front as modern drivers "steer the skid."
My usual modus in setting brakes is NOT the wooden stick routine - although I might use that in setting up for trial in the garage. Fine tuning occurs on a dirt road where the skid of each wheel can be seen and "balanced" left to right and then front to rear.
Dad said he always adjusted his brakes on his parents "pea gravel" driveway. I find a gravel road to be more indicative.
Of course by my method, the actual brake drum plays small in the evaluation. A stop/skid is the same if effected using cast iron drums or steel drums. You're measuring "effect" by evaluating the length/duration of the skid marks.
Of course steel drums WILL fade more than cast. Steel generally suffer from 90 years of use, a worn to paper thin-ness (i.e. no mass to dissipate heat), and "polishing" from the modern brake lining commonly seen. Reinforcing bands WERE popular in the 1970s (Made from a ring cut from a Ford Pinto flywheel?) but that is kind of a band-aid approach.
Best would be all four drums cast iron.
Joe K
Joe K
Well-known member
I'm currently working on a 30-31 front axle which came complete (except for a busted brake actuator housing) and seems to have the "reinforcing bands." These may have been an available commercial product as they're even turned to a "channel" cross section (to dissipate heat.)
I may "try" these as it will save a mailing from Mel Gross Industries.
Joe K
I may "try" these as it will save a mailing from Mel Gross Industries.
Joe K
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
Both of my Model A's have cast iron drums in the front and original steel drums in the rear. I have no intention of converting the rear brakes to cast iron until the steel drums are worn beyond safe use. The brakes work very well on both cars. I set the brakes to have a front 1st bias. From years of experience, I find this to be a safe practice.
Dick M
Well-known member
If you want the best vendor to buy brake parts from or have work done on your drums, Contact Randy Gross. His company has been in business for decades. You will find his pricing very attractive. And, lastly, Randy is a straight up "Model A Guy".
Randy Gross
Brake Drums, Brake Shoes, Wheel Hubs, and Steering Box rebuild
714-292-8660
melmodela@aol.com
Randy Gross
Brake Drums, Brake Shoes, Wheel Hubs, and Steering Box rebuild
714-292-8660
melmodela@aol.com
Wholeheartedly agree, Randy does top notch work, quite reasonable, and timely. I'm building up a front end right now with Randy-rebuilt backing plates and new cast iron drums, and they work like buttah! The rears have been on my car almost a year and about 4500 miles and are likewise working great.
eagle
Well-known member
"It has to drive before it can stop." Ha! Reminds of what my grandpa used to say, you never get anywhere with your brakes on. However, I've driven cars where you get the panicky feeling, want to drag your feet because the brakes are not working. Not fun! One thing to remember: The mechanical brakes can be very good, many people drive an A with worn out brakes and declare they need to install hydraulic, not true. Fix them right and they will give you many many years of good service. I bought my A 12 years ago, the brakes had been recently done right. I haven't touched them since. Not even adjusted them, no need. Stops perfect, no excess pedal travel or pulling left or right. I think about it every spring when I get the A out, but so far no need for anything.