Pinion bearing.

OHV DeLuxe

Senior Member
I’ve got all new bearings on a 36 axle and the double pinion bearing came with a distance piece between the two tapered bearings, seems to me when assembled on the pinion i do not get any preload leading me to thinking i should probably leave it out as i’m used to from earlier.
Any experience on this?
 
Use an inch-lbs torque wrench if you have one to set the preload.

Or the good ole' spin the banjo with the pinion end in a vice until it "feels right" trick. :rolleyes:
 
Use an inch-lbs torque wrench if you have one to set the preload.

Or the good ole' spin the banjo with the pinion end in a vice until it "feels right" trick. :rolleyes:

I believe the second option to be the most reliable one. I tried the first, and could never get a good read due to erratic jumping of the indicator. I’m told that back in the day, all real mechanics had been born with torque wrenches built into their wrists: “Spin hard with both hands, and the preload is correct when the rotation stops at or just before one complete turn”. So that’s what I did and it worked for me, many miles ago.
 
I believe the second option to be the most reliable one. I tried the first, and could never get a good read due to erratic jumping of the indicator. I’m told that back in the day, all real mechanics had been born with torque wrenches built into their wrists: “Spin hard with both hands, and the preload is correct when the rotation stops at or just before one complete turn”. So that’s what I did and it worked for me, many miles ago.

I made a special socket for my little inch-lbs torque wrench and it worked out great - not only for the preload on the pinion, but also for the preload on the differential carrier and then when both preloads are combined. There are lots of ways to "skin" this cat and back in the day it was done by feel more than anything else.
 
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