1936 crossover pipe removal

A

allenmichael

Member
any sugestions on how to access the lower crossover manifold bolt on drivers side? the crossover pipe itself limits access. 6 pt box wrench? help needed, also tap thread size to clean rust out of head all sugestions welcome. engine is in car.
 
allenmichael said:
any sugestions on how to access the lower crossover manifold bolt on drivers side? the crossover pipe itself limits access. 6 pt box wrench? help needed, also tap thread size to clean rust out of head all sugestions welcome. engine is in car.
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I know the exact bolt you are referring to.
A thin wall, six-point socket works best.

Threads in the head? No such thing.
I am guessing you mean threads in the block.

It seems to me the forward two are 7/16"-14 x 1 3/16". The rear two pair are 3/8"-16 x 1 3/16". All hex head bolts utilized a thick split-type lock washer.
Be certain to use a bottoming tap as the threaded holes are blind.
 
are you working that bottom 5/8 bolt from top side or under car? top is out, bottom one is limited by the curve in the crossover pipe itself. trying to work around axle, steering links etc from the bottom, while wrench throw is limited working from the top side unless I remove the splash pans in fender. it is the last sob and Im hitting it with map gas and still can't get it to move.
 
heat, try, heat try,,, finally released and got out.
Only issue now is looks like threads in block might be a bit buggered up with crud so will need to try and run tap, through manifold to block. 7/16 X14 thread I believe?
 
Before our Sears went belly up I purchased a set of thread chasers, getting a lot of use out of them.
 

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Has not been said yet.
Never use taps on flathead blocks!
Best tool is an old bolt with a flat or two of threads ground off.
Ford used what is known as an 'interference' fit.
The use of taps will produce water leaks.
 
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