What else needs to be done while I have the engine out?

[motherlode]

Due to a cracked flywheel housing I have the engine out. Plan to freshen up, clean, paint, and seal everything I can at this time. Want to make sure I don't miss something simple that I should be doing while I have the chance.

I'm doing both of the Mitchell seals for the transmission. Are there any options for improving the main seals on the engine? It ran well, and is relatively clean inside so I was not planning to disturb the babbits.

I have a full flow oil filter kit for it too. I did the head gasket right before I found the flywheel housing issue so that's been taken care of. I've got a new clutch, surfaced flywheel, pilot and thrust bearings. Rebuilding front motor mount, new pedal shaft and bushings.

What am I missing???

 

[JayJay]

If it were me, as long as I had the engine this far apart I think I'd check the clearances on the main and rod cap bearings, adjusting if necessary. Do it with the engine upside down in the engine stand. Remove, adjust and replace one at a time so you don't interfere with the rope seals.

The only options on engine seals are to replace the rope seals with newer lipped viton style ("Burtz" seals). To do this you would need to pull the crankshaft out and do some machining. As long as your rope seals are not leaking significantly I would not do this.

If you don't have adjustable valve lifters this would be a good time to pull the valves and camshaft and install adjustable lifters. And consider a higher lift cam.

It appears that you have the original-style friction disc without the damping springs. You might also consider using a newer style disc that may smooth out clutch action. Don't forget to adjust the clutch fingers once you get the clutch assembled onto the flywheel.

 

[Gene F]

The little oil feed line to the centermain cap?????

I assume you have fuel filter screens (pencil in tank, etc).

 

[nkaminar]

Paint.

 

[Benson]

FYI:


Clean oil filter screen.

In early 30's Ford factory engine rebuilding faculties reported a number of low mileage engines with damaged main and rod bearings damaged by lack of oil due to plugged oil pump screens.

There is a V8 Service Bulletin in 1932 (CORRECTION it was Sept-Oct 1933 (page 131) for V8 engines but applies to Model A and B also) showing a plugged screen.

If engine has sludge clean the valve chamber.

Caution there are holes drilled in bottom of this chamber to feed the main bearings 1 and 3 along with the camshaft bearings.

If you you use a putty knife to scrape out the sludge. Do not shove the sludge into these oil feed holes, which will plug them up!

Also Photo 5 in post #1 shows an early clutch disk with no springs.

I tried a rebuilt one of these disks in 1962 problems were:

1. Clutch chattered a lot.

2. The rivets holding the hub were loose and made a clunking noise when shifting from forward to reverse.

When purchasing a clutch disk with springs be sure that you get the disk with the "captive springs".

There is a version where the springs fall out and jam the clutch disk.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Bratton's has the disk you want. https://www.brattons.com/CLUTCH-DISC/productinfo/11400/

 

[ThirstyThirty]

If it were me, as long as I had the engine this far apart I think I'd check the clearances on the main and rod cap bearings, adjusting if necessary. Do it with the engine upside down in the engine stand. Remove, adjust and replace one at a time so you don't interfere with the rope seals.

like JJ says... smart to ck, measure adj if req'd mains & rods. u r there! and appear to be more than capable to handle the simple task of popping some caps. Good Luck with your engine servicing & flywheel project.

 

[JayJay]

Bratton's has the disk you want. https://www.brattons.com/CLUTCH-DISC/productinfo/11400/

I think Bert’s also stocks this friction disc.

 

[ModelA29]

You need to remove that intake and carb then send it to me for proper disposal.......

 

[BrianH]

Have that flywheel and pressure plate balanced.

You might also give the valves a clearance check.

 

[Bruce of MN]

Adjust the valves in any event.

If it were me, as long as I had the engine this far apart I think I'd check the clearances on the main and rod cap bearings, adjusting if necessary. Do it with the engine upside down in the engine stand. Remove, adjust and replace one at a time so you don't interfere with the rope seals.

The only options on engine seals are to replace the rope seals with newer lipped viton style ("Burtz" seals). To do this you would need to pull the crankshaft out and do some machining. As long as your rope seals are not leaking significantly I would not do this.

If you don't have adjustable valve lifters this would be a good time to pull the valves and camshaft and install adjustable lifters. And consider a higher lift cam.

It appears that you have the original-style friction disc without the damping springs. You might also consider using a newer style disc that may smooth out clutch action. Don't forget to adjust the clutch fingers once you get the clutch assembled onto the flywheel.

 

[Wick]

On painting the engine, use the paint in the quart can, it covers better and gives a better shine.
Just brush it on.
Replace the throw out bearing. Check front cross member for cracks. Check the throttle assembly that mounts to the back of the motor for wear. Look over the transmission, pedal bushings, shift tower
( replace gaskets) Battery cable in good shape?
Do not paint the mounting area for the starter, the starter needs a good ground.
Inspect starter ring on flywheel.
Insulated and seal up the floor boards,you want a nice snug fit to keep out dust and heat.
Wick

 

[Big hammer]

Remove the rear engine mounts, inspect them for cracks, weld any cracks, install them with new rubber pieces

 

[motherlode]

If it were me, as long as I had the engine this far apart I think I'd check the clearances on the main and rod cap bearings, adjusting if necessary. Do it with the engine upside down in the engine stand. Remove, adjust and replace one at a time so you don't interfere with the rope seals.

The only options on engine seals are to replace the rope seals with newer lipped viton style ("Burtz" seals). To do this you would need to pull the crankshaft out and do some machining. As long as your rope seals are not leaking significantly I would not do this.

If you don't have adjustable valve lifters this would be a good time to pull the valves and camshaft and install adjustable lifters. And consider a higher lift cam.

It appears that you have the original-style friction disc without the damping springs. You might also consider using a newer style disc that may smooth out clutch action. Don't forget to adjust the clutch fingers once you get the clutch assembled onto the flywheel.

Ok I might take a look at the babbits.

Getting into the cam is more than I wanted to do but I understand it's a lot of work if I want to come back and do it again. What do you suggest for lifters and cam? Eventually I'll end up with a high comp head so that might be a good combo.

The friction disk came from a local shop here that did the flywheel grind. They are not model a specialists so probably didn't know. I'll look into getting the spring style disk.

The little oil feed line to the centermain cap?????

I assume you have fuel filter screens (pencil in tank, etc).

pencil in tank??

FYI:


Clean oil filter screen.

In early 30's Ford factory engine rebuilding faculties reported a number of low mileage engines with damaged main and rod bearings damaged by lack of oil due to plugged oil pump screens.

There is a V8 Service Bulletin in 1932 (CORRECTION it was Sept-Oct 1933 (page 131) for V8 engines but applies to Model A and B also) showing a plugged screen.

If engine has sludge clean the valve chamber.

Caution there are holes drilled in bottom of this chamber to feed the main bearings 1 and 3 along with the camshaft bearings.

If you you use a putty knife to scrape out the sludge. Do not shove the sludge into these oil feed holes, which will plug them up!

Also Photo 5 in post #1 shows an early clutch disk with no springs.

I tried a rebuilt one of these disks in 1962 problems were:

1. Clutch chattered a lot.

2. The rivets holding the hub were loose and made a clunking noise when shifting from forward to reverse.

When purchasing a clutch disk with springs be sure that you get the disk with the "captive springs".

There is a version where the springs fall out and jam the clutch disk.

Thanks for the detail, I'll do that.

Bratton's has the disk you want.

Is the one from Mikes acceptable? It looks a little different.

I don't have enough posts here to post the full link but it's PN A7550
mikes-afordable.com

You need to remove that intake and carb then send it to me for proper disposal.......

Hah, maybe. I hate having a fuel pump.

Have that flywheel and pressure plate balanced.

You might also give the valves a clearance check.

Had not considered a balance, will have to look into that.

On painting the engine, use the paint in the quart can, it covers better and gives a better shine.
Just brush it on.
Replace the throw out bearing. Check front cross member for cracks. Check the throttle assembly that mounts to the back of the motor for wear. Look over the transmission, pedal bushings, shift tower
( replace gaskets) Battery cable in good shape?
Do not paint the mounting area for the starter, the starter needs a good ground.
Inspect starter ring on flywheel.
Insulated and seal up the floor boards,you want a nice snug fit to keep out dust and heat.
Wick

Thanks for the tips, I've got throwout bearing and spring, new ring gear (thanks to 12v on the starter it's all torn up). I'll take a look at the other stuff too.

Remove the rear engine mounts, inspect them for cracks, weld any cracks, install them with new rubber pieces

Thanks, I did find a bunch of cracks in the driver's engine mount and will be welding it up since I could not find any good used mount. I'll pull the passenger mount out and check it too.

 

[JayJay]

mother: I won't copy your entire post but a few comments:

1. Re: engine mount: Bert's (Modelastore.com) has a ton of used parts. You might call him (Steve Becker) to see if he has a good used engine mount rather than weld up the old one. Welding can introduce local heat stresses that, unless properly relieved, can lead to future cracking.

2. The A7550 clutch disc from Mike's appears to me to be the variety that has springs, but they are not "captured". Look closely at the picture of the unit that Bert's supplies (https://modelastore.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3729), and the attached photo. You will see metal tabs that wrap around the spring from both of the long sides. Those springs are inserted before the two plates are riveted together. The metal that wraps around those springs prevents the springs from jumping out of their mounting locations (see attached photo). I have heard, but have no personal knowledge of, that non-captive springs can jump out of their mountings, which would not be a good thing in the clutch housing.

Bratton's also sells this disc with the captive springs (the attached photo is the disc I received earlier this week from Bratton's). If you have another preferred vendor the best thing to do is to call them and ask if their friction disc has the captured springs. If they don't know what you are talking about then the answer is likely "no".

If you get down off the hill (I assume you're in the hills based upon your username) it looks like Sacramento Vintage Ford in Rancho Cordova also has the friction disc with the captured springs (their P/N 00325-0).

3. On lifters and cam, my suggestions would be a set of adjustable lifters from Snyder's (their P/N A-6500-SL-Q8) and a Terry Burtz cam. Terry's cams are brand new. If you want to go to a reground cam that will be close profile to the Burtz cam then Snyder's offers a "touring grind" reground camshaft. I believe you can also source the Burtz cam from many of the Model A vendors.


BTW, don't confuse Bert's Model A Store with Terry Burtz, two entirely different entities!

 

[Gene F]

It's called a pencil filter. You take out the fuel shut-off valve in the tank, and it slips in. Keeps any possible crud out of the fuel system. It works well due to the way it is designed. Costs a few bucks, and all the supply houses for Model-As sell them. One of these will last a lifetime.