Replace ignition switch

F

Fred Leverentz

New member
A few weeks ago I stumbled onto one of the senior experts explaining how to wire a higher amp ignition switch such that such additions such as turn signals or lighted temp gauges could be turned off with the key. I would like to do this, but for the life of me, I can't find that post again. Help!
 
The instrument panel and the terminal box are kind of limited on how much wiring will fit internally and between the two. The heavier duty the switch, the larger the housing becomes. I'm not saying it can't be done but there are alternatives that can be easily hidden from view. A person can come straight off the battery with a fused hot wire to run stuff like the turn signals as long as the conductor wire is protected from chaffing and the elements. A person can convert the circuit for the ignition to turn on the power to the coil instead of close the grounding breaker circuit like it was originally. The ignition is not a fused circuit unless there is a main buss fuse at the source of the power going to the terminal box. None of the systems were fused from the manufacturer so folks added all that stuff later. With only two terminals in the terminal box, it limits choices in there. The dash panel is very close to the fuel tank so a person has to make sure that no shorting conditions are added into that space.
 
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Just how many amps do you plan to put through it? Any of the universal aftermarket switches can easily handle the things you are naming.I take it you are not running the original popout now? Just an on-off,and want something heavier,correct?
 
On all 4 of my cars, I run an aftermarket simple on/off switch. I run everything through it - fuel pump, turn signals, power outlets for say, GPS, driving lights - every thing but I am on 12v so the required current is halved compared to 6v. To solve the OP's problem, I would hook at a simple relay activated by the ignition switch which would then power up everything else. It would require less power than the ignition, I think. The relay could be hidden well out of sight, it that is important to you.
 
Keith, I'm not necessarily interested in lots of amps, but the link I'm tring to locate said the amps had to be higher than what I now have (maybe 3 anps) in order to wire a swith to allow me to turn off my turn signals when I turn the switch (i.e. the car) off. I seem to have this old guy habit of turning into a parking lot, turning the key off, and walking away leaving the turn signals merrily blinking until I return.
 
Keith, I'm not necessarily looking to run lots of amps, but the link I'm looking for said I need something more than the original (maybe 3 amps) in order to wire the switch so that I can run my turn signals through it to turn them off when the switch (i.e. car) is turned off. I seem to have this old man habit of pulling into a parking lot, turning off the key, and walking away with the turn signals merrily blinking away.
 
Fred Leverentz said:
I seem to have this old man habit of pulling into a parking lot, turning off the key, and walking away with the turn signals merrily blinking away.
Click to expand...

It sounds like you need a beeper or clacker on the turn signal circuit to remind you.:)
 
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