Lots of good stuff today!

H

Hipopinto

Member
Hey all

Today was a great day!

My Burtz Block kit and flywheel arrived today!!!

I am so excited I can’t begin to explain

This will be a bit of a project for me as I only want to build it once

I will have several questions that will be posted over the next few months!

One question I have as of now is not Burtz related but where do flywheel housings “crack” ?

I want to get one for this block. I know I can buy new from Snyders but if I can find a good Henry piece of Iron I’m perfectly fine with original.

Any pictures on what to look for?

Is there any reason “not” to use factory iron?

Thank you all for everything

Dave
 
Terry Burtz is bringing out a new Flywheel housing that is stronger than the orig. Look by and between the bolt holes for an cracks. Or just tap on it if it has a dull thud it's cracked. If yours isn't cracked use it. If it's cracked wait til the Burtz one is available.
 
Terry's new flywheel housing also has an O ring groove where the rear cam bearing sits. If you use the stock housing, have the surface that mounts to the engine machined flat and parallel to the surface that the bell housing mounts to. This is important for alignment and to seal the area where the rear cam bearing is located.
 
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Crossing the dowel holes at the 90 and 180 degree mark.

Probably due to "flex" resulting from a front engine mount that was on springs, and a rear engine flywheel housing "attachment" to the frame that except for the rubber, wasn't.


Joe K
 
I asked John L if the housing was available as I would have bought one when I ordered!

I may just wait for it but I’m getting antsy to proceed

Any input on the Snyder’s unit? They make aluminum and iron any input on either of those?

Thanks guys

Dave
 
Hipopinto said:
Any input on the Snyder’s unit? They make aluminum and iron any input on either of those?
Click to expand...

The Snyder's flywheel housings are good, they're just expensive. For that money you could buy several cores, have them blasted and inspected, and probably repaired and the faces surfaced.

That's basically what I did. I started with six cores, three were damaged beyond repair, two had small cracks, and one was perfect. I had the cracked ones repaired and surfaced, then sold two and kept one for my build (the one I kept had the late '31 design). Total outlay less than $525.

I don't know why you'd go with aluminum unless you were building a racer.
 
Jeff / Illinois

My handle is based on my 1/4 mile car!

I have a turbo 4 cylinder 1980 pinto that is knocking on 9 second times

Best time last year was 10.13@133

Dave
 
Hipo-damn that is moving!

We had a 75 Pinto wagon with a V6 and I really enjoyed that car. It was not a speed demon by any stretch of the imagination. But it was SOLID!

As for your A, remember do it once, do it right and you will be good for 50K.

Mike
 
My thoughts exactly on the model a

I am building 8170 with the Goldilocks ratio to match this

I will definitely need a little bit of input from all of you on the direction of the build. I am thinking egg pistons. I have not ordered my head yet. I’m secretly hoping I could find an overhead valve, but I most likely will go with the buttz head, the burtz touring camshaft

For induction, I was thinking possibly a pair of Stromberg 97’s and an improved exhaust system also looking at an electronic distributor

But again, I have made no choices. I only wanna do this once.


Dave
 
Hipopinto said:
Jeff / Illinois

My handle is based on my 1/4 mile car!

I have a turbo 4 cylinder 1980 pinto that is knocking on 9 second times

Best time last year was 10.13@133

Dave
Click to expand...


Ya know I kinda figured that!! My buddy Harvey had a '72 Pinto Runabout that he stuffed a 302 in it for drag racing, that little brute would get up and GO:p
 
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