Where to get what V-8 Pressure Plate

JayJay

JayJay

Well-known member
So over the last several months we've had some various discussions about the V-8 pressure plate, comments about how current rebuilds may have stiffer springs than older rebuilds, one person had a balance issue with a V-8 pressure plate from one of the vendors, etc.

I have a Burtz flywheel for my Burtz engine and will need a V-8 pressure plate for it. I'm planning to use the friction disc with the enclosed springs (available from Bert's). Turns out there appear to be several "V-8" pressure plates of varying diameter and targeted use (i.e., passenger car vs. tractor - I think this friction disc is 8-1/2"?).

What pressure plate should I buy, and from whom? I do not have a core, so a for a rebuild I am happy to pay a core charge. Or should I go for a new one, keeping in mind that I suspect any new pressure plate originates overseas either to the east or west.

Thanks, guys.
 
Here's my understanding of where we are on the V8 pressure plates. The "correct" plate part number is 09A-7563. That's the one with the counterweights and adjustable fingers. If you look on eBay, many 8N-7563 PPs are being sold as 09A units, so you have to visually confirm the correct product.

Reproduction units differ from NOS examples in several ways that seem to be cost-saving measures, the most significant of which is the stiffer springs. Several methods to work around this problem have been put forward:
  1. Find a NOS V8 PP
  2. Disassemble the repro PP and remove 1 of the 2 springs adjacent to each finger (credit Terry Burtz for this idea)
  3. Source replacement springs that meet the original spec (obviously a lot to unpack there)
  4. Use a diaphragm PP from a later Ford (Jim Brierley has published a short guide on doing this)
  5. Use an extended clutch release arm to improve your leverage against the stiffer springs.

For ideas 2 and 3, you will need to re-balance the PP.

Additionally, the price on repro units is fairly high right now. Bratton's prices them at $130 but they're having trouble getting stock from their supplier. Most other places are charging $150 or so.

If I needed to buy one now, I would buy this one. Rebuilt unit; judging by the photos it has the correct insulating washer on the springs and thus it might have the correct springs.
 
One thing to add, be sure to measure and (if needed) adjust the finger heights when you install the PP. Don't assume it was set correctly by the vendor.
 
IMHO the suggestion from Jim Brierley about machining the flywheel and using the diaphragm clutch from the Ranger pickup is a very good suggestion. Diaphragm clutch pp's need less pressure to push and hold very good. I use diaphragm pp's in Oldsmobile race engines without any problems.
Ed
 
katy said:
Where does one find this information?
Click to expand...

He wrote on the other site: "The clutch I used was from Clutch Masters in Rialto, CA their part number is 07017D and listed as Clutch kit 9" Ford diaphragm. My price was $185 for the PP, $20 to grind the flywheel surface and $80 to drill and tap the wheel. This was done on a flywheel that had been previously lightened and drilled for a V8 clutch. The bolt pattern is similar to the V8 clutch but slightly different and has 3 dowel pins to locate the PP. From memory I think they told me it was for a Ford Ranger pickup. I use a Model A disc, my trans is also a V8. This clutch has "fingers" that are contoured so a flat throw-out brg. is used This was done in April 2019."
 
Locate Jim’s book 4 Bangers and me

A link is listed on the jalopy journal HAMB monthly banger thread

J
 
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I actually went through Jim's book before I posted. He includes a photo of the diaphragm clutch, and says that some people are using it, but he doesn't give any information on how to do it yourself.
 
Ford had three different V8 type clutch covers in the early V8 era. The first was the 9-inch with the 10-inch coming in later. The 11-inch was for 4-speed trucks. They are all the BW Long type design. The earlier 9-inch is the one that can be made to fit best depending on flywheel modifications. The Burtz flywheel uses the 9-inch Long type set up.
 
I currently use older rebuilt 9in v8 pp and also the diaphragm ones.
The diaphragm bolt pattern is very close to the v8.
More than a few have been just “modified” with a file to fit, not good.

When I mod flywheel I drill both patterns so either can be used
 
alexiskai said:
I actually went through Jim's book before I posted. He includes a photo of the diaphragm clutch, and says that some people are using it, but he doesn't give any information on how to do it yourself.
Click to expand...
Not really a DIY job. You'll need a big lathe to turn the flywheel and a mill to accurately drill the holes. Balancing should also be done.
 
Like every job
If you have the right tools it is easy
Be careful of online diagrams some have bad information or dimensions
J
 
I suggest you call early ford v8 sales in piedmont , South Carolina .
They have plenty of v8 pressure plates with the adjustable fingers. That is what you want.
Larry Shepard
 
larrys40 said:
I suggest you call early ford v8 sales in piedmont , South Carolina .
They have plenty of v8 pressure plates with the adjustable fingers. That is what you want.
Larry Shepard
Click to expand...

They definitely have excellent prices. I bought a 3.25:1 rear end from them. The V8 PPs are $135 plus shipping.
 
alexiskai said:
They definitely have excellent prices. I bought a 3.25:1 rear end from them. The V8 PPs are $135 plus shipping.
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Yes they do … got one in today from them. They are much cheaper than some of our regulars…. Clutch disc available reasonably as well.
Thanks for bringing the cost factor to the post.
Larry
 
I have never heard anyone ever say anything negative about Ft Wayne Clutch. I have only bought one item from them, and it was correct.
 
I dilly-dallied around and by the time I got my act together the rebuilt unit that alexiskai suggested (post 2) was gone. So I ordered a new one from Brattons and it, and the good friction disc (with captured springs) arrived yesterday. The PP looks good, counterbalanced arms and adjustable fingers, although I have not yet put wrench to the finger adjusters to see if they are metric or SAE. Interestingly enough, there does not appear to be any indication that it has been adjusted for balance. So either it was within balance spec as assembled or else it was never checked.

Have any of you seen indications of balance adjustment on your pressure plates? I don't think I've ever noticed in the past, although admittedly I've never really looked either.
 
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