uh oh....

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
Dad came up this last weekend and we installed a Mitchell OD-with some issues. Not with the OD per se-although we had some issues with the instructions and videos.

But we got in! We ended having to replace the pinion bearings/race and discovered a few issues with the rear axle. No oil-I know I had some in there so have to figure out where it went and the pass side drum would turn but the axle would not. So I have to take the drum off and hope and pray no damage to the axle or the whole things comes back out:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:.

But if I can fixe everything and make it good then I can't wait to test her out!!!!!

Mike
 
Yeah I am hoping that it is just a worn key that is fixable. I know oil leaks from the engine/****** but the diff should be sealed up. Just hoping it is not getting into the brakes and that maybe it did just leak out a little here and there over time.

Mike
 
One thing that I thought was odd was when I was cleaning up the Pinion gear where the bearings ride I noticed that the factory had etched 610 into the bearing surface. It was then machined smooth and just barely noticeable.
 
1930artdeco said:
One thing that I thought was odd was when I was cleaning up the Pinion gear where the bearings ride I noticed that the factory had etched 610 into the bearing surface. It was then machined smooth and just barely noticeable.
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There should be a matching number engraved on the ring gear, indicating a matched pair. But usually the pinion is engraved on the face, not on the shaft.
 
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Growing up I worked in a Service Station (remember those, before they were just a gas station?).

Anyway, we learned when changing the engine oil, we always check ALL fluid levels. Hard to imagine your rear end going empty in 500-1000 miles if you follow this routine.

Sorry to hear that. You will love the Mitchell O/D. I have the O/D and Mitchell Transmission in my Town Sedan. What a great combo.
 
1930artdeco said:
But we got in! We ended having to replace the pinion bearings/race and discovered a few issues with the rear axle. No oil-I know I had some in there so have to figure out where it went and the pass side drum would turn but the axle would not. So I have to take the drum off and hope and pray no damage to the axle or the whole things comes back out:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:.

But if I can fixe everything and make it good then I can't wait to test her out!!!!!

Mike
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Two explanations for that spring to mind. One has been mentioned above - missing or broken key, the other is a broken axle. That is caused by worn out hubs. It looks like you have a rear end rebuild in your near future.
 
Hello, I have found oil leaks at the bolts that hold the outer axles to the center banjo case , permatex 2 or gas resistant sealer works,have a tendency to back off sometimes , spring pulls at it plus vibration from wheels and bearings, I always check them , usually warns you with sticky oil mess on floor if leaking!
 
Are you saying this was a driving car,and after you put the OD in the axle wouldn't turn anymore? You can turn the drum but the axle nut stays still?
 
1930artdeco said:
Dad came up this last weekend and we installed a Mitchell OD-with some issues. Not with the OD per se-although we had some issues with the instructions and videos.

But we got in! We ended having to replace the pinion bearings/race and discovered a few issues with the rear axle. No oil-I know I had some in there so have to figure out where it went and the pass side drum would turn but the axle would not. So I have to take the drum off and hope and pray no damage to the axle or the whole things comes back out:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:.

But if I can fixe everything and make it good then I can't wait to test her out!!!!!

Mike
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I Feel you, My rear axle started having a major leak and me and a friend pulled the axle out, found out my axle shafts were worn out and my drive shaft upper bearing was shot so both are being replaced. Got some good used axles and chased the threads on them. Got the axle together, just waiting on a few parts. Best of luck bud!
 
Update. Took the pass hub off and there is no damage to either the hub or axle. Now for the odd part. I think the hub loosened just enough to rotate somehow-still not sure how. But if I put the key in like I had been doing it is loose and falls right out. But if I rotate it 90* it is super tight. So going to order some new seals and keys and reinstall again. This time maybe a little tighter. So hopefully I will be up and running in a few weeks-the way I do things it takes awhile sometimes.
 
1930artdeco said:
Update. Took the pass hub off and there is no damage to either the hub or axle. Now for the odd part. I think the hub loosened just enough to rotate somehow-still not sure how. But if I put the key in like I had been doing it is loose and falls right out. But if I rotate it 90* it is super tight. So going to order some new seals and keys and reinstall again. This time maybe a little tighter. So hopefully I will be up and running in a few weeks-the way I do things it takes awhile sometimes.
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sound like you didn't put the key in the right way originally. A worn keyway can be difficult to notice but generally the keyway should be tight enough to require tapping the key into the axle with a brass hammer. if the key falls out in the right orientation the axle is worn. Now a good machine shop can cut a new keyway or oversizing the original and using a t shaped key. But if that's the case, better plan on hunting for a better axle or buy new
 
The key has a radius on one end that needs to be on the inside part of the axle. It meshes with the curve in the keyway that was cut when it was machined. There is only one way that the key goes into the keyway. If the key is loose then you need a new key and possibly a new axle or a special key as described above.
 
I use 95 ft pounds or to the next key slot if its not lined up. Then leave the rear hub caps off and re torque the rear axle nut at 5 miles, 10 miles, then every 25 miles until they hold torque.
 
old31 said:
I see no reason to retorque the axle nut after you first set it.
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Normally I would agree. But think of the "don't want to use a puller" removal process. Which is: Loosen the hub nut and drive the car normally. The hub will "walk" off the taper.

A "reverse walk" that doesn't tighten is possible as the hub/axle "finds its new seat" in the pinch between the taper and the hub nut.



Joe K
 
Update: From what I can figure out, I installed the key upside down and backwards. So I had the bevel up and towards the hub. I also apparently did not tighten the nut down enough. So I ordered new keys just to make sure that I have the correct size as I want to make sure my current ones are not worn. I hope this is all that there is and I can continue the Mitchell install and then test drive her!!!!!!

Mike
 
UPDATE: So I rebuilt both rear hubs with original bearings, new and correct grease, installed the keys correctly (this time), and replaced a more than likely dead shackle on the driver side with a good original and greased it using corn head-If I need to change it out that is fine but what there was dried out hard stuff. Amazingly the bushing was still good! So no damage, the differential has oil and I can now move back to finishing the Mitchell installation!!!!! Thank you for all of your help.


Mike
 
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