Rebuilding my engine. Head choice?

Thanks for your opinions.
I originally considered using the Snyders 5.5:1 or 6.1:1 heads. The more I read and hear about the Burtz 6.5:1 head the more I prefer it.
Does anyone have an idea what the compression PSI would be for the Burtz head and 0.080 Snyders pistons?

Thanks again.
 
This has been an interesting discussion. I don't plan to have multiple engines leading to the knowledge expressed by the rest of you, but the idea of an HC head for the benefits listed has appeal. My engine has been rebuilt by some PO, and based on compression test and general performance, I don't think it will need another rebuild in my lifetime. That said, is it permissible / advisable to just change the head, acknowledging that some driving habits will need to be adjusted--timing advance. Is the cam change necessary?
 
I decided on the Burtz head and received it the other day. I noticed there is no large center water passage between the #2 & #3 cylinders. Otherwise it looks great. Will that be a problem on a stock original Model A block?

The cylinders had some rust at the bottom of one of the cylinders, so he wound up going to 0.80 over bore. It had .040 pistons when I took it apart. The crank cleaned up at .010 on both the mains and rods.

I had the bearings poured last week and he showed me how it was done and let me pour the upper part of #1 & #2 main bearings.


Thanks
 
Why would anyone 'mix their own fuel'? Surely these 'used oil' mixes must smoke and pollute like crazy! How much money does it actually save? Unless you are driving on pool table flat terrain the loss of power must be a problem as well. It also seems to be abusive to the carb to gum it up with the resulting shellac....and the valves with oily black residue. Where is the 'win' in this picture?
 
Free fuel — when people put gasoline in their diesel and it was drained depending on the concentration I would use it in either the A or the Mercedes diesel, the old ones didn’t care much about fuel, ones I by accident put in antifreeze and didn’t realize it until the next day, went to drain the tank and fuel filter and it was already gone, it would burn used automatic transmission oil too, some people would run them on used food frying oil.
The A would run ok on fuel that the lawnmower didn’t like
Many time I have thought about using one of the high compression heads I have( even a 8.5 Weiand) but after reading all the posts about fooling with the timing and spark knock I am satisfied with my existing performance, an go almost 70, no spark setting causes spark knock at any speed or throttle position with full advance and the fuel mileage is over 20 mpg at any speed.
 
Last edited:
The original incarnation of the engine would sometimes have spark knock, after the cut deep valve seats and worn camshaft were restored to original specifications no spark,throttle or mixture settings could create spark knock on modern gasoline, top speed increased, fuel mileage increased.
I used original Ford parts.
A lot of Fords production specifications are tighter than modern car specifications.
A lot of reproduction parts are not close to original specifications.
I can hear spark knock just fine. — my lawnmower will knock on gasoline that the model A won’t knock on.
 
Last edited:
I run a 5.5 Snyder head, very happy with how it performs 23K miles so far. I use a Ford Model B auto advance distributor to control ignition, it helps too
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top