Getting my A back on the road-three questions

Bob Leonard said:
Great responses, but this is turning out to be more than I thought it would be. I had planned to replace the missing fuel sediment bowl, slap the carburetor back on, install the new battery, and get going. Bob
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These projects can always test one's abilities. I liked everything you have said other than: starting it first up in the air, running it for a couple of minutes... then driving it!

I am following your thread with interest ~
 
Bob Leonard said:
Great responses, but this is turning out to be more than I thought it would be. I had planned to replace the missing fuel sediment bowl, slap the carburetor back on, install the new battery, and get going. Bob
Click to expand...

These projects can always test one's abilities. I liked everything you have said other than: starting it first up in the air, running it for a couple of minutes... then driving it!

I am following your thread with interest ~
 
I did order the filter. There was already a tube put up there decades ago to keep sediment from coming down, but it also restricted my gas usage as the last gallon or two could not be used. I have hopes that the filter will solve that problem. I also ordered a filter for the sediment bowl. I guess that you can't have too many filters. With these two, I doubt that anything can get to the carb that could restrict a jet.

My carb rebuild kit is supposed to arrive today. After I install that, I expect that I am going to have to order other parts, such as possibly the venturi and definitely the bolts, and perhaps other hardware. I'm also going to have to get a little rust off of the inside and much more off of the outside. I'm thinking of an acid bath, but that will take the paint off, also, thus requiring me to repaint it.

I think that I'll take some pictures of the opened and unopened, but unrebuilt, carb and then some after the rebuild to post in this thread since a couple of people expressed interest in seeing what I have done. If people want, I can do that throughout to project as I encounter more issues (as I expect I will.)

Can anyone tell me if this thread is the proper place to do that or if there is a more appropriate place to do so in the Ford Barn?

Again, thanks for all the advice and the community you have here.

Bob
 
ThirstyThirty said:
These projects can always test one's abilities. I liked everything you have said other than: starting it first up in the air, running it for a couple of minutes... then driving it!

I am following your thread with interest ~
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I'm not sure that I understand. You don't like the idea of starting it up on the jacks? The reason I want to do that is to see if there are any leaks or other problems before I take it down. If there are, I will still have it up there to get under it. Please let me know if that is a problem. If it is, I can take it down and then, if I need to, put it back up.
 
Check the drive train to make sure it is lubed and not slopy. The old gent I bougt mine from in a barn in West Virginia mentioned this me when I bought it about 25 years ago. It had not been driven for 30 years. I love taking my grand children and great grand children for rides in it during the summer. It is stored in a garage in Rhode Island where we go up there every summer to visit our familys.
 
Bob Leonard said:
I'm not sure that I understand. You don't like the idea of starting it up on the jacks? The reason I want to do that is to see if there are any leaks or other problems before I take it down. If there are, I will still have it up there to get under it. Please let me know if that is a problem. If it is, I can take it down and then, if I need to, put it back up.
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Hi Bob -

Just stating my opinion. If I had an A that sat up for a long time, and i do... (on all four tires n wheels, holding air well; inside) for safety's sake i would start it on all four tires on ground. I would run the engine for longer than the stated (2?) couple minutes, ie... would want a full heat soak. + some extended run time. bit off idle. To normalize the combination of parts. I had an almost very bad incident occur with my A on jack and front end in air. Another time i got close to my Guardian Angel and further convinced me miracles can an do really happen. the 'gennie' kind. :)

But of course, there is no standard or set procedure for what you are doing. If anyone knows how my post before got double posted... and wants to remove one, ok with me. Thanks in advance ~

TT

ps: I am rootin' for you and a good first restart! :)
 
It sounds like you have some hesitation about repainting the carb exterior. What concerns you?
And yes, this is fine for posting as you have. Everything you’ve talked about is consistent with the title, and it’s interesting to follow your process from one thing to the next. Some of us have been there.
 
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David in San Antonio said:
It sounds like you have some hesitation about repainting the carb exterior. What concerns you?
And yes, this is fine for posting as you have. Everything you’ve talked about is consistent with the title, and it’s interesting to follow your process from one thing to the next. Some of us have been there.
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No, that wasn't a hesitation really, just an observation. I understand that the acid bath will take the paint off, so I can accept that it will need to be repainted. I'll need to research that so that the paint job works.

My carb kit came in along with the booklet about Model A Carburetors. I won't try to rebuild it until I read the book.

This weekend, I'll try to get the fuel valve put back on, along with the new sediment bowl assembly. I'll also start lubing it. Thanks to the several people who posted about that. I appreciate the comments about lubing in untypical places.

Bob
 
Just to add, there is now another source for an electronic regulator for the original adjustable brush generators. They are still in the test phase but so far have been working as intended. If its at least as good as others that have been produced before then it will make a good charging system for model As.

The 6-volt converted alternators tend to overcharge the battery due to the way the internal regulators are set up. The voltage is set too high on all the GM 10si type conversions I've checked. They work just fine on the regular 12-volt set up so they are very good for 12-volt conversions
 
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Well, I have run into my first problem that I couldn't solve. My goal this weekend was to replace the gas shutoff valve and the fuel sediment bowl while waiting on a delivery to get to work on my carburetor. At least, that was the plan.

The valve was incredibly easy. It was on in a matter of minutes, along with the screen that sticks up about two inches into the gas tank. Job done.

The sediment bowl assembly is another thing. I had a lot of trouble attempting to get it out. It did not make sense. I could not understand how one person could do this. I had an English teacher in high school who used to say, "If all else fails, read the directions." So, I got Les Andrews' book, and it was there in black and white: "A second person will be needed to hold the sediment bowl while removing the nut from the inside." So, I will get someone to help me next weekend and bang this job out. Regardless, this project id taking a lot longer than I anticipated. Maybe by then, I can have cleaned the rust off of the carburetor and rebuilt it.

I'll also have a chance to go pick up a 1 3/4 inch open ended wrench. I used an adjustable wrench to get it started but that was a challenge. I measured it with a micrometer and saw that it was 1 3/4 inches. When I opened Les Andrews' book it said--wait for it-- that I needed a 1 3/4 inch wrench. I really need to go to the book BEFORE starting each project.

This job raised a vastly important, existential question: "Why is it called a GAS shut-off valve, but a FUEL sediment tank.?" Ponder on that for a while.
 
Bob Leonard said:
I'll also have a chance to go pick up a 1 3/4 inch open ended wrench. I used an adjustable wrench to get it started but that was a challenge. I measured it with a micrometer and saw that it was 1 3/4 inches. When I opened Les Andrews' book it said--wait for it-- that I needed a 1 3/4 inch wrench. I really need to go to the book BEFORE starting each project.
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Oops. I meant to say 1 1/4 in wrench. That is what I measured and that is what the book said. I just misstated it. Sorry.
 
Check out rennerscorner.com for additional information on your carb rebuild project. They sell proper parts and offer excellent advice.
 
Yes, I did get (and install) the "pencil" filter. I also got the new sediment bowl back on, installed the carburetor, and hooked up all of the fuel lines.

Question: In my carburetor kit, I have paper gaskets. I see where some of the suppliers sell copper gaskets for several connections, including the two parts of the carb. What are the advantages and disadvantages of copper gaskets vis-a-vis paper ones? Are they worth the price? If so, should I use them everywhere that I have a chance?

I've been down from working on my "A" the last couple of weeks or so due to work, chores, life, etc., but this weekend, I was able to catch up a little.

I had intended to rebuild the carb, but I decided to see if I could get her running first. If she runs rough, then I will do that, or I can do it when I have time; there are more urgent matters to attend to.

I drained the transmission fluid and will drain the rear end and refill both, along with the steering box.

I also got new spark plugs, gapped them, and installed them.

I'll fill the radiator and see if I have any leaks that will show without the engine running.

I'll probably charge my battery today since it has been sitting up (new but unused) for almost a year. I'll then install it and put a trickle charger on it.

After all of that, I will be ready to start it. Before I put fuel in her, I intend to turn her over to see if I am getting sparks at all four posts in the distributor (I got one of those clear tops) and at the plugs. If I am, I'll fuel her up and see if she runs.

I feel that I am close to getting back on the road. I'm attending to the engine now, but before driving it, I will lube up all of the lube fittings and oil where appropriate. Based on previous suggestions here, I'll probably get new tires before I do anything more than just run to the store.

Thanks to all who have advised me here; I appreciate it more than you can know. I also hope that someone is getting enjoyment from my running description of what I am doing.
 
Good Afternoon...Just a few thoughts. I've run a six volt alternator for 19 years without any trouble. It doesn't require any adjustments for day or night. The coil and condenser should most likely be changed to new ones. They might work for a short time, but will most likely quit when you don't want them to...like not in the driveway! I apologize if this was mentioned and I missed it...Ernie in Arizona
 
NEW TROUBLE:

I really thought that I would be starting my car this weekend. In addition to the things mentioned above (new plugs gapped to .035, installed a new gas valve, drained and replaced the transmission and rear end fluid, filled the steering box), I put the carburetor back on, filled the radiator (no apparent leaks!!), reset the timing, and since the battery was dead, bought and installed a new one. Before adding fuel, I wanted to see if we had a spark to the plugs, so I cranked it, or at least tried to. The starter didn't even make a sound. Nothing.

It is possible that the rusted old ground cable end isn't making contact with the battery. A new one is on its way from Snyders and should arrive on Monday. Assuming that does not help, does anyone have any idea what I need to troubleshoot and in what order? The rod on the starter barely moves, so perhaps that is the problem. If so, I have no idea how to fix it other than by buying a rebuilt starter. I don't particularly want to get a rebuilt starter ($215) if all I need is a starter switch ($35). Or if it is something other than the starter. When I put the car up a little over ten years ago, it was running well.

Also, would it help me to post this question in a new thread with a more appropriate title?

Any ideas? Thanks.
 
Bob Leonard said:
Before adding fuel, I wanted to see if we had a spark to the plugs, so I cranked it, or at least tried to. The starter didn't even make a sound. Nothing.

It is possible that the rusted old ground cable end isn't making contact with the battery.
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I had this happen on my car the other day and it ended up being that the push rod for the starter backed off some while driving. Try checking to see if you can tighten it some so that the starter switch can make contact with the contact on the starter. Even a cable in poor condition should be able to turn the starter as long as the connections are good.
 
Mike1291 said:
I had this happen on my car the other day and it ended up being that the push rod for the starter backed off some while driving. Try checking to see if you can tighten it some so that the starter switch can make contact with the contact on the starter. Even a cable in poor condition should be able to turn the starter as long as the connections are good.
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I'll try tightening the starter rod. Thanks. As for the battery cable, the ground cable connection is completely rusted. I hit it with PB Blaster, but the tightening nut wouldn't budge, so I'm just going to change the cables out (even the negative one, although that one does not look bad, and I was able to get a bolt through it and tighten it up).

They were supposed to arrive today, but this morning, I got a message that they were just now being shipped, and I should expect them by Wednesday. I just now got another message from FedEx saying that they will be here Thursday. I had hoped to get the car running early in the holiday season so that I could work on it over the holidays. That is obviously going to be cut quite short.

I guess that I will try to finish the lubrication job and work on cleaning her up until the cables get here.

My problem will be troubleshooting her if the cables don't resolve the fact that the starter won't turn over. Les Andrews has about five pages on starters, including a couple of tests that can be run to see if the starter is working. If I have to, I will perform those tests. If it doesn't work, I will replace it with a rebuilt one, but that will entail sending in the core and will cost me a lot of time. If the starter appears to be okay, then I could be at a loss about what to do next.

Thanks, everyone, for your help.
 
Well, my parts, including the battery ground cable, came in yesterday and I was so hopeful that my problem was that I could not ground the battery due to extremely rusted-out connections. Unfortunately, the new, bright, shiny cable did not help. I hooked up the battery, and still no response from the starter. Since the battery is now clearly grounded and since the other terminal of the battery goes straight to the starter, I probably have a bad starter or switch.

If anyone has any ideas, I'd like to hear them. In order to broaden my search, I'm going to put a post in directly about this issue to attract the attention of starter gurus.
 
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