Cars bogs after 45 mph.

No need on stroms,all you have to do is install smaller PV in them. like #67 to #69. PV on Strom dont open till the pedal is on the floor.Not vac oper. ken ct.
 
Russcc,
Thanks for input about dual accelertator pumps.

Ken,
Uncle MAx used .043 main jets and #69 power valves, he replied to me
in a PM.
Thanks,
Bob
 
Ken,
Uncle Max told me that here is a lifetime warranty on the carbs he rebuilt for me, but
he also told me that he is a young 101 yrs. old.
Bob
 
Start with the very basics. Retarded ignition timing will cause your car to bog under load. Make sure your points are set right as well.
 
I think you have another problem,not carbs. MAX is the best,it dont get any better than him. ken ct.
 
ken ct said:
3.5 lbs pressure is at the limit a strom will tolerate.2-2 1/2 in more like it.How can you be running .045 in both carbs and then say you have .043 in the front one???? Should be .043 in both carbs. And power valves do NOT come in any kits that i know of. Except in OLD Sorensen kits. Stock PV's usually are too big running a 2x2. most run #67-#68 in them. Your running too much gas through them your over carbed. OMO ken ct.
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I found .043 in front carb and replaced with .045 to match rear...appears .043 is a better choice (your recommendation) in all 4 locations. H&H recommended these jets and you are correct I bought #65 PVs separately (and emulsion tubes) as well as recommended by others. (Appears #65=.035dia, #66=.033,#67=.032, #68=.031, #69=.0292) Never had the pedal to the floor to get into this circuit as a bit rough prior to that as I described.

russcc said:
If the accelerator pumps have not been modified for dual carb use, that is where I would look. The article by Barney Navarro shows how you drill a small hole in the pump setup to keep the gas level lower in the pumps so they don't give the engine to much gas. Think about it, the gas from 2 accelerator pumps when the engine originally only had pone. Too much!
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How about changing the accelerator pump rod to summer from winter setting on the 97?

My setup has been in place since my Father owned the car in the 50's. No pump mods I am aware of and never ran a regulator- pump output is approx 5.5psi. The Internet has allowed me to make the regulator and jet "improvements". ;)
 
Yes moving to S would probebly help,then you run into the rod being wrong length,there are 2 diff lengths.Thats another can of worms. Fulcrum arm must be bent to accomadate the shorter rod so throttles open and close fully. You put stock PV's in it. they also must be smaller like around #68. Its hard to believe your running with 5.5 lbs gas pressure. ken ct.
 
Could be bouncing points (poor spring tension ) Bad connections ING side of coil .closed up points .bad coil .set up a jumper wire direct to coil .
 
Yes Ken, If I rebuilt a Carb and the owner was not running a filter at the carb I would be reluctant to warrant it ,Some after market non Ford / AC ,pumps do not have enough clamping action on the cork seal to gorse
 
ken ct said:
Ted,first thing they blame is the carbs when somethings wrong. ken ct.
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You could go into the distributor repair business- double your revenue and quadruple your re-work requests! :eek:

I moved my Offy dial regulator to 3.5 psi (from 2.5psi) yesterday. (Dad didn't run one on this car- I added one)

Results were dramatic. The miss/crackle at "high" rpm (approx 2500-3000 by ear) was gone with engine at op temp. As the temp gauge moved up a bit after some idle downtown the miss began to appear- although much less pronounced. I was able to go full throttle in high gear for first time.

Apparently these regulators don't produce stated pressure at all operating temps/flows...The float shutoff valves are Strombergs latest- perhaps they are improved now for improved cutoff over the original design? The Sberg literature I have indicates 3psi max.

A search at this site indicates a 3039 NAPA paper fuel filter is recommended- I haven't tried one- some light sediment in my bowl. If that helps Bob.... Tank is "clean".

I will likely put the .043 jets I have in front carb and test drive again. Ran well enough that I could just leave it alone. If it improves a bit I'll purchase and match .043 jets for the rear. ( Fwiw this engine has "race" cam, .120 overbore, and Offy Hi rise with the twin 97s)

Lane
 
yep, need a mechanical pressure gauge to check the setting....might find out you're not even putting out the 3.5...good luck....Mike
 
Update on car bogging after 45 mph.
Turns out that I have a flat lobe on my camshaft,
affecting the rod which controls the mechanical fuel pump.
I am putting in an electric fuel pump to solve problem.
So, it defintely wasn't the carbs.
Thanks for everybody's input.
Bob
 
Well im glad you found out it wasn't the carbs,way to go Max. Though i still think he should balance carbs with all .043 jets,OMO ken ct.
 
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