40's pickup rotisserie?

I had built a rotisserie off a set of internet plans 6 years ago. Knowing plusses and minuses from production units I modified mine while building it. Turned out great. Heavy enough to handle a 50's Cadillac.
Vic
 
411Ton said:
Has anyone sourced or made a rotisserie? Would love to buy or see plans! Thanks!
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Ya mean like this?

Harbor Freight, about $1800. Did 15 restorations with this unit.
 

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I did add an adjustable rod to each end as the way it was built, there was only incremental adjustments. With a threaded rod, I could balance the body so easily and so well, I could spin it with one hand and it would stay where I placed it without locking.
 
I did extensive research trying to find the best auto rotisserie about 7-8 years ago. I ended up buying an Auto Twirler Pro, replacing an imported one that was poorly made. The Auto Twirler is made in the USA and has been very easy to use and very robust, mostly 3/16" thick tubing and clamping plates. I did not mind spending a little extra, especially for peace of mind when working near it. Plus, the ball bearing pivots, big casters, and heavy-duty overall construction makes it a pleasure to use. I have had a few early pickups on it, usually with the cab mounted to the frame and it works very well. I even had my 8N tractor on it during restoration and it was very stable and still east to roll around. I just wanted to share my experience. I am sure you will find what works best for you, whether built or bought.
 
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I bought an Auto Twirler Rotisserie too and put a '65 Falcon on it to sandblast the underside. It sure beats laying on your back and sandblasting. Now I can sit in a chair and sandblast. I have a big sandblast cabinet too. It's taken me all of my life to finally get the tools I've wanted and a large shop.

The only place that sells the blasting sand near me is tractor supply.
 
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411Ton said:
Any pics of how it attaches to the cab?
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I don't think so.

I had made rails that went between the two "stands" of the body. On the rails I had pieces of tubing that were cut to the proper length so as not to put stress anywhere to the body. The tubes were 1" in diameter with an end plate welded on. That end plate was threaded so I could install a bolt directly into it. Then I would use factory body to frame mount holes.

By utilizing the factory mount holes, I was able to touch in paint later as none would get beneath the mount at painting time. Once mounted with pads, etc. this "touching in" was not visible.

I have attached a photo of a 40 convertible body mounted. This should make it quite clear how I mounted all bodies. I'd restored so many coupes and convertibles, I had "stands" made respective of body style, marked as to what they went to as well as the rail system marked.
 

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Kube said:
I don't think so.

I had made rails that went between the two "stands" of the body. On the rails I had pieces of tubing that were cut to the proper length so as not to put stress anywhere to the body. The tubes were 1" in diameter with an end plate welded on. That end plate was threaded so I could install a bolt directly into it. Then I would use factory body to frame mount holes.

By utilizing the factory mount holes, I was able to touch in paint later as none would get beneath the mount at painting time. Once mounted with pads, etc. this "touching in" was not visible.

I have attached a photo of a 40 convertible body mounted. This should make it quite clear how I mounted all bodies. I'd restored so many coupes and convertibles, I had "stands" made respective of body style, marked as to what they went to as well as the rail system marked.
Click to expand...

Super helpful, thanks!
 
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