Valve Clearances

Bob Bidonde

Bob Bidonde

Well-known member
I am in the midst of checking the clearances on the valves in my Victoria because there is at least one noisy valve. I did a search for valve clearances on this website, and the values vary. Here are the particulars for the engine in my car:
Model B engine;
0.060" overbore;
6:1 Cylinder Head;
Model B camshaft;
Modern stainless steel valves;
Adjustable lifters;
Stock valve springs;
10W30 full synthetic motor oil;
Operating temperature 160 to 180F;
160F Thermostat;
3.78:1 differential;
Cruising speed range 40 to 55 MPH.

What do you recommend I set the intake & exhaust clearances at?
 
The proper valve clearance depends on the cam grind. Some cams have a ramp that closes up the gap before the valve opens. If you know who ground the cam, consult with them.

Otherwise, measure what you have and use that as a starting point. If one valve is noisy you many be able to find it and reduce the gap. If not, reduce the gaps on all the valves a small amount, say 0.002, and see if that helps. Sometimes one cam lobe can be ground slightly different than the rest and that can cause that tappet to be noisy.

Remember the rule of 9. When #1 valve is up, measure #8. When #2 valve is up measure #7. When #3 is up measure #6. Etc. The numbers always add up to 9.

I have the adjustable lifters and the valves have to be up to adjust them. So I would measure #8 and adjust #1 when #1 is up. Etc. That saved some time.
 
Bob - I recently installed a Jim Brierley "C" grind camshaft, which I understand is similar to the "B". Jim recommended that I set the valves at 0.012" intake and 0.014" exhaust. That might give you a starting point. You might also PM him to see if he has a different recommendation.
 
nkaminar said:
Remember the rule of 9. When #1 valve is up, measure #8. When #2 valve is up measure #7. When #3 is up measure #6. Etc. The numbers always add up to 9.
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I've not heard of the "rule of 9". Good thing to have in the toolbox. Thanks, NK.
 
JayJay said:
Bob - I recently installed a Jim Brierley "C" grind camshaft, which I understand is similar to the "B". Jim recommended that I set the valves at 0.012" intake and 0.014" exhaust. That might give you a starting point. You might also PM him to see if he has a different recommendation.
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Yes, .012" and .014"
 
JayJay said:
I've not heard of the "rule of 9". Good thing to have in the toolbox. Thanks, NK.
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"RULE OF NINE " IS ANOTHER NAME for procedure in Service bulletins:

For details on "rule of nine" see page 338 in Service Bulletins.

Also see correction on Service BULLETINS page 347.


FYI:

Stipe IB330 says .012 IN and .012 EX (this from the label sent with two Stipe IB330 camshafts).

More info on Rule of Nine on Vince Falter's website:

https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ruleofnine.htm
 
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Bob, are you sure the 'noisy valve' is because of excessive lash, -or a tappet that is loose within the bore?

I am guessing on this number because I have never really counted but we probably find over half the engines we rebuild have loose enough tappet bores to need boring and install O/S Tappets. As the lobe is rotating, the tip is pushing the face of the tappet in one direction yet when the lobe tip passes TDC, the tip is pushing against the tappet face in the opposite direction, and that can create a noise that is often referred to as a threshing machine noise when all of the tappet bores are loose.
 
[FONT=&quot]This Model B engine has 2200 Miles on it since a total rebuild. [/FONT]The existing valve clearances are[FONT=&quot]: Intakes: #2 0.010”; #3 0.0105”;[/FONT][FONT=&quot]#6 0.010”; #7 0.010” & Exhausts: #1 0.015”; #4 0.015”; #5 0.014”; #8 0.0135”. I will adjust them to 0.012" Intakes & 0.014" Exhausts. I will also test the lifters & valves for sideways wiggle. More to follow.
[/FONT]
 
Hmmm
I doubt that the lash measured is the cause of the noise
Could be the lifters/bores but I doubt that too
I found one where the spring preload on the cam thrust was incorrect and that was corrected

J
 
Bob Bidonde said:
[FONT=&quot]This Model B engine has 2200 Miles on it since a total rebuild. [/FONT]The existing valve clearances are[FONT=&quot]: Intakes: #2 0.010”; #3 0.0105”;[/FONT][FONT=&quot]#6 0.010”; #7 0.010” & Exhausts: #1 0.015”; #4 0.015”; #5 0.014”; #8 0.0135”. I will adjust them to 0.012" Intakes & 0.014" Exhausts. I will also test the lifters & valves for sideways wiggle. More to follow.
[/FONT]
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I too doubt if the clearances are the problem. I had a lifter noise years ago, it would come and go at a regular pace. One lifter was loose in it's bore. I reamed the block for Chrysler lifters (5/8") and that solved the problem. I did it with the engine still in the car.
 
NK, I have used the rule of 9 many times before and have printouts for it.

But know one has ever said it any clearer than you:

(Remember the rule of 9. When #1 valve is up, measure #8. When #2 valve is up measure #7. When #3 is up measure #6. Etc. The numbers always add up to 9.)
 
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If you do try to check for loose lifter bore in the side to side, you will have to set up a dial indicator for checking. Just trying to move the lifter by hand and eye sight would be very hard to identify movement unless it is very loose.
Ed
 
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