1937 V8 60 - replacing the clutch

D

Dameon Hubbard

Member
Hey guys,

Im looking to replace the clutch and have been advised you can pull the back end rather than the motor. Could someone give me a basic run down so I know what Im in for. Diff, torque tube, gearbox?

Dameon.
 
I have done it both ways and by a slight margin prefer to roll the rear end back. As I recall:
- Chock the front wheels.
- Remove the stick from the transmission; cover the hole.

- Move front seat all the way back and remove floor boards (best if front seat is fully removed)
- Jack the rear end up high enough that you can get under to where the torque tube bolts to the transmission. Put frame jacks under the frame rails in front of the rear wheels.

- Put a floor jack under the differential and remove both rear wheels to give you clearance to roll the rear end back on the jack wheels
- Unbolt the rear spring from the frame and push the U-bolts up and out of the way.

- Disconnect the rear shock links
- Disconnect the rear brake cables (if hydraulic, just the emergency brake, as the brake hose at the front of the torque tube should reach far enough to roll the rear loose from the transmission.)
- Let the rear end down only as far as needed for the spring to clear moving back about 4".

- unbolt the speedometer turtle from the torque tube

- Unbolt the clam shell halves from each other.

- Unbolt the clam shell halves from the back of the transmission, and remove them.
- Loosen the front engine mounts.

- If the fan is less than an inch from the radiator, remove the fan.

- Unbolt the rear transmission mounts
- remove the engine anti-chatter rods.

- disconnect and remove the clutch lever from the transmission

- Put a floor jack under the rear of the engine with a block of wood to protect the oil pan.

- Jack up the engine to just raise the transmission ears off of the mounts
- Roll the rear end back until the universal joint is pulled free of the transmission rear shaft.

- Pry the snout of the torque tube down as far as you can and block it there.

- Remove all of the transmission to engine bolts except the top two; barely loosen them.

- Replace two of the side bolts with bolts about 4" long, upon which the transmission will slide back. Finger tight. Not absolutely necessary, but chould prevent damage to the clutch when pulling the transmission back and out.

- Jack up the engine to raise the rear of the transmission enough that it can slide back far enough to come out of the clutch plate; maybe 2 - 3 inches. Keep an eye on the oil pressure sender and fan as you jack up the engine; if either is in danger, remove it.

- Remove the rear mounts entirely to give you clearance. You may have to unbolt the rear mount from the transmission housing. Be careful, it holds the rear bearing in place.
- Go time; get one or two strong lads. Good grip is essential. Put lifting straps or towel under the transmission.

- Remove the remaining top two transmission mounting bolts

- Now pull the transmission back straight until it is free of the clutch plate, then remove the guide bolts (if you used them) and lift that 80 lb transmission out of there.



It has been a few decades since I did this. What did I forget?
 
drolston said:
I have done it both ways and by a slight margin prefer to roll the rear end back. As I recall:
- Chock the front wheels.
- Remove the stick from the transmission; cover the hole.

- Move front seat all the way back and remove floor boards (best if front seat is fully removed)
- Jack the rear end up high enough that you can get under to where the torque tube bolts to the transmission. Put frame jacks under the frame rails in front of the rear wheels.

- Put a floor jack under the differential and remove both rear wheels to give you clearance to roll the rear end back on the jack wheels
- Unbolt the rear spring from the frame and push the U-bolts up and out of the way.

- Disconnect the rear shock links
- Disconnect the rear brake cables (if hydraulic, just the emergency brake, as the brake hose at the front of the torque tube should reach far enough to roll the rear loose from the transmission.)
- Let the rear end down only as far as needed for the spring to clear moving back about 4".

- unbolt the speedometer turtle from the torque tube

- Unbolt the clam shell halves from each other.

- Unbolt the clam shell halves from the back of the transmission, and remove them.
- Loosen the front engine mounts.

- If the fan is less than an inch from the radiator, remove the fan.

- Unbolt the rear transmission mounts
- remove the engine anti-chatter rods.

- disconnect and remove the clutch lever from the transmission

- Put a floor jack under the rear of the engine with a block of wood to protect the oil pan.

- Jack up the engine to just raise the transmission ears off of the mounts
- Roll the rear end back until the universal joint is pulled free of the transmission rear shaft.

- Pry the snout of the torque tube down as far as you can and block it there.

- Remove all of the transmission to engine bolts except the top two; barely loosen them.

- Replace two of the side bolts with bolts about 4" long, upon which the transmission will slide back. Finger tight. Not absolutely necessary, but chould prevent damage to the clutch when pulling the transmission back and out.

- Jack up the engine to raise the rear of the transmission enough that it can slide back far enough to come out of the clutch plate; maybe 2 - 3 inches. Keep an eye on the oil pressure sender and fan as you jack up the engine; if either is in danger, remove it.

- Remove the rear mounts entirely to give you clearance. You may have to unbolt the rear mount from the transmission housing. Be careful, it holds the rear bearing in place.
- Go time; get one or two strong lads. Good grip is essential. Put lifting straps or towel under the transmission.

- Remove the remaining top two transmission mounting bolts

- Now pull the transmission back straight until it is free of the clutch plate, then remove the guide bolts (if you used them) and lift that 80 lb transmission out of there.



It has been a few decades since I did this. What did I forget?
Click to expand...
Holy crap. Thank you for taking the effort to post that. Looks like its going to be quite the effort to do that clutch. I cant help wonder if its easier to pull the engine!
 
I wonder about that too, especially given the substantially smaller size and lighter weight of a V8-60.

I've never done a 60; just thinkin' out loud.
 
tubman said:
I wonder about that too, especially given the substantially smaller size and lighter weight of a V8-60.

I've never done a 60; just thinkin' out loud.
Click to expand...
and I've had the motor out before but not taken the back end off. I suppose it would be good experience....
 
Dameon Hubbard said:
and I've had the motor out before but not taken the back end off. I suppose it would be good experience....
Click to expand...

I think it is easier to pull the rear end back than to take out the engine.
 

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I also believe pulling the rear back a few inches is the easiest way to go. Lord knows, I've done many.
You only need to pull it back 6" or so.

It isn't as difficult a task as it may sound.
Experienced at this (me) about four hours total.
 
What I forgot:
You will probably have to unbolt and remove the universal joint from the transmission rear main shaft.
 
Kube said:
I also believe pulling the rear back a few inches is the easiest way to go. Lord knows, I've done many.
You only need to pull it back 6" or so.

It isn't as difficult a task as it may sound.
Experienced at this (me) about four hours total.
Click to expand...
I actually heard exactly that from someone else who's done it many times. Around 4 hours. I'm going to give it a go.
 
Kube said:
I also believe pulling the rear back a few inches is the easiest way to go. Lord knows, I've done many.
You only need to pull it back 6" or so.

It isn't as difficult a task as it may sound.
Experienced at this (me) about four hours total.
Click to expand...
Does that six inches allow space to replace the clutch or drop the gearbox?
 
Dameon Hubbard said:
Does that six inches allow space to replace the clutch or drop the gearbox?
Click to expand...


That gives you the space to get the transmission out. And then access to the rear of the engine to remove and replace clutch components (unless you have an 11" clutch for which I think you have to drop the pan)
 
The trans comes out the top as TonyM stated. The frame mount and wishbone are in the way to drop it down.
 
drolston said:
I have done it both ways and by a slight margin prefer to roll the rear end back. As I recall:
- Chock the front wheels.
- Remove the stick from the transmission; cover the hole.

- Move front seat all the way back and remove floor boards (best if front seat is fully removed)
- Jack the rear end up high enough that you can get under to where the torque tube bolts to the transmission. Put frame jacks under the frame rails in front of the rear wheels.

- Put a floor jack under the differential and remove both rear wheels to give you clearance to roll the rear end back on the jack wheels
- Unbolt the rear spring from the frame and push the U-bolts up and out of the way.

- Disconnect the rear shock links
- Disconnect the rear brake cables (if hydraulic, just the emergency brake, as the brake hose at the front of the torque tube should reach far enough to roll the rear loose from the transmission.)
- Let the rear end down only as far as needed for the spring to clear moving back about 4".

- unbolt the speedometer turtle from the torque tube

- Unbolt the clam shell halves from each other.

- Unbolt the clam shell halves from the back of the transmission, and remove them.
- Loosen the front engine mounts.

- If the fan is less than an inch from the radiator, remove the fan.

- Unbolt the rear transmission mounts
- remove the engine anti-chatter rods.

- disconnect and remove the clutch lever from the transmission

- Put a floor jack under the rear of the engine with a block of wood to protect the oil pan.

- Jack up the engine to just raise the transmission ears off of the mounts
- Roll the rear end back until the universal joint is pulled free of the transmission rear shaft.

- Pry the snout of the torque tube down as far as you can and block it there.

- Remove all of the transmission to engine bolts except the top two; barely loosen them.

- Replace two of the side bolts with bolts about 4" long, upon which the transmission will slide back. Finger tight. Not absolutely necessary, but chould prevent damage to the clutch when pulling the transmission back and out.

- Jack up the engine to raise the rear of the transmission enough that it can slide back far enough to come out of the clutch plate; maybe 2 - 3 inches. Keep an eye on the oil pressure sender and fan as you jack up the engine; if either is in danger, remove it.

- Remove the rear mounts entirely to give you clearance. You may have to unbolt the rear mount from the transmission housing. Be careful, it holds the rear bearing in place.
- Go time; get one or two strong lads. Good grip is essential. Put lifting straps or towel under the transmission.

- Remove the remaining top two transmission mounting bolts

- Now pull the transmission back straight until it is free of the clutch plate, then remove the guide bolts (if you used them) and lift that 80 lb transmission out of there.



It has been a few decades since I did this. What did I forget?
Click to expand...

When you mention remove the trans stick, do you mean remove the stick and top plate together (and cover the hole)?

I imagine it would be worth removing the fly wheel and getting this machined whists its out? To match the nice new clutch.
 
Finally done! Massive job in the end as exposing the clutch showed oil in there from a not properly installed oil pan rear seal (oops (that was me when replacing welsh plugs)big lesson learnt). So the pan had to be dropped again and re installed this time fitting that rear seal to the engine rather than the pan.
Thanks for all the advice especially drolston.
 
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