Engine Wiring Schematic Diagram need for non-popout ignition.

BRENT in 10-uh-C

Well-known member
We are installing a NuRex 'pop-out-look-alike' ignition switch and using their armoured flex cable into the distributor, but because we are installing an electric fuel pump for some 97s, I need to change the wiring somewhat and eliminate the pop-out switch. Has someone already made a picture diagram or schematic showing the modified wiring that I can print instead of taking the time to make one??

TIA!!
 
I would change the wiring so the ignition switch is before the coil (originally the switch is after the coil) and run a wire from the ignition switch to a relay, then to pump (or in my case, my tach).

This way the pump is switched and all the current isn't passing thru the switch. The pump gets full battery voltage from the relay Sorry, I have a schematic I drew up years ago for this but I can't locate it now.
 
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Brent, This is not hard to do an you don't need a schematic. Run power to the switch from the terminal opposite the ammeter. The switch will say Batt or B or +. Run a wire from the switch to the coil, which will say Ign or something like that. If negative ground run it to the positive terminal on the coil and if positive ground run it to the negative terminal on the coil Run the other side of the coil to the points. You can run a wire to inside the terminal box and then to the armored cable so that you do not destroy the original look. Sometimes the wire out of the armored cable is long enough to reach the coil. Also run a wire to the fuel pump from the ignition switch at the same terminal that goes to the coil Check to see if the ignition switch can carry the current for the ignition and the pump. Otherwise use a relay for the pump.

That's it.
 
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How fancy do you want to get, what fuel pump safety shutoff controller system .
Alternator? Generator? Stock starter switch or solenoid switch?
 
What pump are you using? Just curious.

One of the little 12v pumps on 6v. It will make about 1 lb of pressure which will be fine to fill both carbs.
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Brent, This is not hard to do an you don't need a schematic. Run power to the switch from the terminal opposite the ammeter. The switch will say Batt or B or +. Run a wire from the switch to the coil, which will say Ign or something like that. If negative ground run it to the positive terminal on the coil and if positive ground run it to the negative terminal on the coil Run the other side of the coil to the points. You can run a wire to inside the terminal box and then to the armored cable so that you do not destroy the original look. Sometimes the wire out of the armored cable is long enough to reach the coil. Also run a wire to the fuel pump from the ignition switch at the same terminal that goes to the coil Check to see if the ignition switch can carry the current for the ignition and the pump. Otherwise use a relay for the pump.

That's it.

Neil, you're right. I don't need the schematic for me, -however I want it for my employees so that I can hand them a sheet with the schematic that they can follow and when they are complete they can double check themselves. That is the way I run my shop on customer's projects. It saves me time by having sheets or videos for each task.


If no one has this, I guess I will take the time to draw one over the weekend.
 
See if you can use this?? I got it from Y-Blockhead a while back.
 

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See if you can use this?? I got it from Y-Blockhead a while back.

That schematic is 100% correct, but I don't think the fuel pump draws enough current to require a relay.

Where you show the key-switched power feed to the relay, I think it can just go straight to the fuel pump.

I wired up electrically heated seats in a Cabriolet a few years ago for a guy and I used a relay for them. Lots of current draw.
 
Using a relay will isolate the ignition from any interference the fuel pump may possibly introduce to the ignition system
 
Thanks MC. Here is a larger version.I added the relay because originally it was wired for two 30 watt fog lights and i didn't want to overload the switch.

54042158102_4c472ec3a9.jpg
 
My ignition switch passes enough current to power my fuel pump. But it all depends on the fuel pump and how much current it uses.

In my case, there is a fuse in the line that goes to the fuel pump. It is on a junction block with some other fuses for other things.
 
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