Weak Spark 1950 Ford V8

fordbruce

Junior Member
Hi ! I have a 1950 Ford V8 239 Motor ……I bought new points and condenser from NAPA and got all the timing marks lined up with #1 spark plug , points are gapped .016 ::::::: turn the engine on and I have a very weak spark ⚡️……… could it Bev the brand new condenser ? Thank You Guys
 
And yes, it could be the brand new condenser. They are known to be fragile inside, sometimes are bad right out of the box. When I buy a condenser I buy two, to double my chances of winding up with a good one. Last time, both were good.
 
And tell us a bit more about the ignition system. 6v, 12v, external resistor? battery strong with good connections/grounds? The napa condensor has been the 'go to' for fordbarners, but recently there are increased failures right outa the box. Some here like a condensor from a magneto, what you need is a high quality condensor rated .22 mfd. Or is it .022? With 50 years in old toyota landcruisers I have never had a bad Denso condensor. Just sayin'....
 
what you need is a high quality condensor rated .22 mfd. Or is it .022?
Tubman, our resident condenser expert, has posted that the microfarad rating doesn't really matter. He said the "perfect" mfd. varies with the engine's RPM, so no mfd. rating would be perfect under all conditions. Just about any automotive condenser will work fine on our engines.

And condensers don't care about voltage, so no difference if you are 6 or 12 volt.
 
Tubman, our resident condenser expert, has posted that the microfarad rating doesn't really matter. He said the "perfect" mfd. varies with the engine's RPM, so no mfd. rating would be perfect under all conditions. Just about any automotive condenser will work fine on our engines.

And condensers don't care about voltage, so no difference if you are 6 or 12 volt.

Thanks for the support, Jay; the actual value should be .22 micro-farads.

You are correct about the large tolerances that are acceptable. Here are some interesting values found on an official pre-war list of Ford condensers. I find the statements printed on the bottom quite interesting.
 

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Thanks for the support, Jay; the actual value should be .22 micro-farads.

I find the statements printed on the bottom quite interesting.

'Scuse my ignorance, but does the higher or lower number represent a greater capacity?

Edit: I looked it up like I should have done before posting.
The higher number indicated greater capacitance.
 
Thanks for all the replies ! I returned the condenser , got another one and also bought another coil , and it started ! Thanks for all the help !!! My Ford is 6volt positive ground , and has that GREAT FLATHEAD SOUND !!!
 
When I worked in the fleet, we had an old ex-WWII mechanic there that got mad at me for changing the condenser with the points, cap and rotor, He argued that you had more chance of getting a bad one out of the box. I laughed at him, figured he was just cheap and then I finished my tune-up. Damned if it wouldn't start when I was done. It was a bad brand new shiny in the box Standard Blus Streak condenser. He says, see I told you so. I never forgot that. I still replace them when doing a tune-up and it's never happened to me again. Just because you have installed a new out of the box "quality" part never forget that it might just be defective, it happens, not very often, but it happens.

Congratulations on fixing it. The only other things I would have tested were the primary voltage to the coil to make sure you had enough voltage getting to it and then the resistance of the coil itself. Most of the time, but not always, a voltmeter will help you out by not guessing if an electrical part is defective or not. Still, there are times when you just give up with the meter and start throwing parts at it. Replace the parts one at a time until it starts, and when you know which part was faulty. Then you can try to diagnose the part with the meter to make a better machinic out of you. Even take a hacksaw and carefully open up the part to see what went wrong inside of it.
 
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