Forty helmet dist.

The dwell Does not affect anything aside from coil energizing time. The only thing that should be changed for todays fuel is the vacuum brake setting.

Ford recomended 36 degrees of dwell I set them at 34-35 as once the point rubbing block wears in the dwell will increase. With a Skip Haney Coil or a modern coil one can run on dwell as low as 31 degrees although timing would be hard to set correctly at that dwell. Anything above 39 degrees and you will pick up a miss at high RPMS.

You can get one "Close" by setting the gap to 16 thousands on NEW quality Standard or Echlin brand points and setting the timing marker in the middle. The only way you would know the condition of the advance weights and curve or the true timing is with a strobe machine.
 
35fordtn said:
The dwell Does not affect anything aside from coil energizing time. The only thing that should be changed for todays fuel is the vacuum brake setting.

Ford recomended 36 degrees of dwell I set them at 34-35 as once the point rubbing block wears in the dwell will increase. With a Skip Haney Coil or a modern coil one can run on dwell as low as 31 degrees although timing would be hard to set correctly at that dwell. Anything above 39 degrees and you will pick up a miss at high RPMS.

You can get one "Close" by setting the gap to 16 thousands on NEW quality Standard or Echlin brand points and setting the timing marker in the middle. The only way you would know the condition of the advance weights and curve or the true timing is with a strobe machine.
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The things you learn when it's your business to know what you're talking about!
 
Thanks everyone I have a sun machine but it’s out for repairs, I picked up this KRW today it needs cleaning, are these any help for setting up distrubter?
 

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IF you do a search here in forums someone posted the directions for it on a previous post if I remeber correctly.
 
Randall said:
Thanks everyone I have a sun machine but it’s out for repairs, I picked up this KRW today it needs cleaning, are these any help for setting up distrubter?
Click to expand...

I have an early version of this same KRW timing fixture and it works extremely well for setting timing. It's important to adjust your points as precisely as possible for the best timing accuracy.
 
rockfla said:
Dang Ford38V8
My Dad "never" even smacked me that hard!!!! Lol
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Oh boy. I tend to unintentionally insult people sometimes. My post was not to criticize, but to praise Michael for his learning, retaining, and sharing of his knowledge. It was probably easier for him than for most of us, as his know-how runs in the family, but still, kudos on Mike for sharing.
 
I GUESS nobody picked up on THE “LOL” (laughing out load) as a “joke”, as I was “Kidding”?
 
rockfla said:
IF its a Sun machine this one is a pretty decent video, although there is different dwell setting for "today's fuel from what is listed on this video I have found.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EqUH2ZnSSY
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Do you by chance mean different timing for today's fuel instead of "different dwell for today's fuel"? Dwell is adjusted by changing the point gap which will affect the timing some but timing can be set by loosening the screw on the passenger side of the distributor and sliding it up or down as needed. Generally you can add (advance) timing for modern fuel which is higher octane than 1940's gas. The rate of advance is set by varying the amount of tension on the vacuum brake spring.
 
40Deluxe
I just recently got my Sun, in talking with a “trusted” distributor “guy” a couple weeks back…..I swore he told me he used different dwell settings
than what is posted….that’s why I posted what I did. I must have been mistaken? It’s not the first time for me!!!
 
I have a Sun distributer machine, but I also mark the pulley with timing points so I can check it with an adjustable timing light. If you have the #1 head off of it and a dial indicator you can make the marks on the pulley and install a pointer on the timing cover. Actually, install the pointer first, then make the marks, TDC, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 20, 30 and 40. I paint the TDC mark red and the rest of them white. Then I write I down so I can remember what those marks are. Keep a little notebook in the car.

If you're marking the pulley with the head off using a dial indicator rotate the engine in one direction and put a temporary mark on the pulley at the pointer. Then rotate the engine the opposite direction and put a mark. The two marks will have a little space between, the actual TDC is right in the middle of those two marks.Mark your pully there. Then make a template that goes around the pulley so you can use the circumfrance to figure out where to make the other timing marks.
 
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Randall said:
Hey McGarrett I sent you a p m
Thanks
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Yes, saw your PM and sent you a link to a photo of my unit. Looking at the photo of your fixture, it should be easy to find a suitable socket and bulb to fit the existing hole in the side of it. You might try to find a bulb and socket from an old style "D" cell flashlight since the tester uses 2 "D" cell batteries anyway. Another option might be a socket and bulb from an old dash instrument cluster. They are both small and just might do the job. Good luck!
 
Randall,
Here's a copy of the original instructions telling how to set up and use the fixture. Hope this helps you.
 

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