transparent distributor cap

German guy

German guy

Senior Member
Anyone having issues with the transparent distributor caps from Snyders? I have had the same problem with two in a row. They work fine for about 3 months then all of a sudden they get intermittently unreliable. I was having starting problems after 3 months with the first one...the car would start fine and then an hour later it would not...no spark visible. I kept the old stock cap in a took kit in the car and replaced the transparent one ...voilà... it started. The cap looked fine...good connectivity to the coil and the rotor and no sign of condensation inside. I put it back on and the same thing happened...not every time...but unexpectedly. I bought a new one and the same thing happened. Worked fine for a few dozen starts and then became unreliable. As the simplest part of the ignition system it should be next to impossible for it to fail. Any ideas? I like seeing the spark..but I really love when it starts reliably.
 
You spark problem may be unrelated to the cap. My only problem with the transparent cap it they crack after a while.

If dirty it may attract moisture which would provide an alternate path for the spark. That is the only thing I can think of except the contact at the top. Make sure the high tension wire from the coil is pushed in all the way into the cap and coil.
 
I have a transparent distributor cap that is many years old and it is in good as new condition because I only use it as a diagnostic tool. In my opinion, the plastic the transparent cap is made from is not capable of withstanding the environment of the engine compartment for continuous use.
 
Mine fogged up to the point it wasn't clear enough the see the sparks anymore. I wish someone would make them out of clear glass and you could clean them every now and then.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
I have a transparent distributor cap that is many years old and it is in good as new condition because I only use it as a diagnostic tool. In my opinion, the plastic the transparent cap is made from is not capable of withstanding the environment of the engine compartment for continuous use.
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For the ones Mike's is selling, they are specifically marketing it for continuous use. Not endorsing that, just mentioning it.
 
The clear plastic cap must withstand exposure to gasoline and considerable heat. Put a small drop of acetone on the cap. If it appears to dull the surface, the cap is not suitable for continuous use under the hood of a Model "A."
 
German guy said:
Anyone having issues with the transparent distributor caps from Snyders? I have had the same problem with two in a row. They work fine for about 3 months then all of a sudden they get intermittently unreliable. I was having starting problems after 3 months with the first one...the car would start fine and then an hour later it would not...no spark visible. I kept the old stock cap in a took kit in the car and replaced the transparent one ...voilà... it started. The cap looked fine...good connectivity to the coil and the rotor and no sign of condensation inside. I put it back on and the same thing happened...not every time...but unexpectedly. I bought a new one and the same thing happened. Worked fine for a few dozen starts and then became unreliable. As the simplest part of the ignition system it should be next to impossible for it to fail. Any ideas? I like seeing the spark..but I really love when it starts reliably.
Click to expand...

I had one from Snyder's that I ran for quite a while. One morning the engine would not make any noise. After checking a lot of things I finally notice the center carbon electrode was GONE, broken off flush with the cap.

Installed a regular cap and it started just fine. I have not replaced the clear one..., I use a cut down original type for diagnostics.
 
Modern China plastic just does not last no matter if it is a transparent distributor cap or a plastic bucket. I have a rubber mallet from the late 60's, and the rubber head is as good as the day it was made. I have a rubber mallet that is just a few years old made in China and the rubber is falling apart with chunks missing.
 
As stated above, put the normal, black distributor cap back on the distributor. First check the black button is not worn completely smooth. The tab on the rotor should make a springy contact with the button, as if trying to push the cap off the distributor. This spring loaded condition is overcome when the clamps are installed.

Plexiglass will not withstand petroleum products such as gasoline. It will craze (crack) when contaminated, especially while in the hot sun.
 
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