39 tonner wood bed question

[NCSUDucker]

There is currently no bed in the truck. I do have the metal strips and bolts and a piece of the original bed for the profile. This is at least one thing I feel comfortable doing since I'm a shop teacher. My question is, are there wood supports that go under the bed from side to side for the front to front pieces to rest on? Otherwise that is a long span from front to rear. There is a lip that runs around the bed except for at the cab. Appreciate any input you guys might have.

 

[alanwoodieman]

should be some metal pieces going side to side, if I remember there should be at least two of these, maybe three, look for holes in the frame

 

[petehoovie]

There is currently no bed in the truck. I do have the metal strips and bolts and a piece of the original bed for the profile. This is at least one thing I feel comfortable doing since I'm a shop teacher. My question is, are there wood supports that go under the bed from side to side for the front to front pieces to rest on? Otherwise that is a long span from front to rear. There is a lip that runs around the bed except for at the cab. Appreciate any input you guys might have.

 

[ActionYobbo]

On my truck the bed was mostly rotted out. Yours looks to be in much better condition than what I have. I did have remnants of wood left and from that I can tell there was a several square sections of wood running side to side under the deck boards. Definitely one at the front that I can be sure of.

 

[NCSUDucker]

should be some metal pieces going side to side, if I remember there should be at least two of these, maybe three, look for holes in the frame

Does the wood sit on top of the lip or underneath? I'm assuming on top as there is only about 3/4" at best between the frame and the top of the lip where the frame goes over the axle. There are a series of holes that go down the frame that looks like where the cross pieces would be. Were these originally metal or wood? I could see them being wood as the previous owner kept everything when he removed the bed but the only thing I have is the metal strips for between the boards.

 

[NCSUDucker]

On my truck the bed was mostly rotted out. Yours looks to be in much better condition than what I have. I did have remnants of wood left and from that I can tell there was a several square sections of wood running side to side under the deck boards. Definitely one at the front that I can be sure of.

That's kind of what I was thinking and looks like this pic I found when googling.

 

[rawlir]

Should be square wood pieces running side to side, Google Bruce Horkey in the midwest.....

 

[petehoovie]

That's kind of what I was thinking and looks like this pic I found when googling.

 

[GB SISSON]

There are multiple wood crossmembers. They tuck under the 8' long side strips. The crossmembers sit on the frame rails at the drilled holes and have a 1/8" notch on the top side where they tuck under so the 1 1/8" boards lay flat. I use full 2" for crossmembers as that's about what I have found upon dissasembly. The two crossmembers that are mounted on the raised axle hump area are wedge shaped in cross section. perhaps 1 1/2" on one edge and 1" on the other. I tend to keep the main crossmembers 3"-4" wide. I have used 2x2 1/4" wall square tubing for the front crossmember on two of the tonners as it affords a great stiffener and repair for the front panel which is often compromised at the bottom. Welding the panel to this straightens it nicely and makes thgat area bombproof. You may find that when using full 2" crossmembers the rear factory stamped steel crossmember sits above the frame rails. Since I save big truck mudflaps and rubber conveyor belting I always come up with something that'll tuck under there to raise it up a bit. I like to mechanically repair my trucks and make them solid and safe while they appear unrestored. This tonner in the pics was built from numerous green jailbar trucks I had accumulated for parts, and is intentionally a beater, so I used a mix of weathered but sound planks gleaned from the salvaged wood side of my business. No varnished red oak and stainless strips spoken here. Fortunately I've had friends drop off black locust logs for me to mill and I squirrel away any 5' cuttoffs for those wood crossmembers when I can. Hope this helps! There is probably more shots and details of this truck and it's bed on my thread here called 'Winter without a project?'

 

[petehoovie]

There are multiple wood crossmembers. They tuck under the 8' long side strips. The crossmembers sit on the frame rails at the drilled holes and have a 1/8" notch on the top side where they tuck under so the 1 1/8" boards lay flat. I use full 2" for crossmembers as that's about what I have found upon dissasembly. The two crossmembers that are mounted on the raised axle hump area are wedge shaped in cross section. perhaps 1 1/2" on one edge and 1" on the other. I tend to keep the main crossmembers 3"-4" wide. I have used 2x2 1/4" wall square tubing for the front crossmember on two of the tonners as it affords a great stiffener and repair for the front panel which is often compromised at the bottom. Welding the panel to this straightens it nicely and makes thgat area bombproof. You may find that when using full 2" crossmembers the rear factory stamped steel crossmember sits above the frame rails. Since I save big truck mudflaps and rubber conveyor belting I always come up with something that'll tuck under there to raise it up a bit. I like to mechanically repair my trucks and make them solid and safe while they appear unrestored. This tonner in the pics was built from numerous green jailbar trucks I had accumulated for parts, and is intentionally a beater, so I used a mix of weathered but sound planks gleaned from the salvaged wood side of my business. No varnished red oak and stainless strips spoken here. Fortunately I've had friends drop off black locust logs for me to mill and I squirrel away any 5' cuttoffs for those wood crossmembers when I can. Hope this helps! There is probably more shots and details of this truck and it's bed on my thread here called 'Winter without a project?'

 

[38 coupe]

The 3/4 and tonner bed is basically the same from 38 to 52. There is a nice thread over on the Ford Truck Enthusiast site of a complete restoration on an F-2. There are lots of pictures in that thread including at least one showing the cross members, post here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1608411-1950-f-2-restoration-thread-19.html#post19702293.
As others have stated those among us who are less talented at woodworking can purchase from Bruce Horkey, link here: https://horkeyswoodandparts.com/page29.php#woodcross. Given your woodworking capability you won't need to do that, but the picture might help.

I have saved a few pictures of original 3/4 / tonner and F-2 / F-3 beds with good condition original appearing bed wood, notice the welting along the edge of the bed wood between the outer board and the bed side.

 

[NCSUDucker]

There are multiple wood crossmembers. They tuck under the 8' long side strips. The crossmembers sit on the frame rails at the drilled holes and have a 1/8" notch on the top side where they tuck under so the 1 1/8" boards lay flat. I use full 2" for crossmembers as that's about what I have found upon dissasembly. The two crossmembers that are mounted on the raised axle hump area are wedge shaped in cross section. perhaps 1 1/2" on one edge and 1" on the other. I tend to keep the main crossmembers 3"-4" wide. I have used 2x2 1/4" wall square tubing for the front crossmember on two of the tonners as it affords a great stiffener and repair for the front panel which is often compromised at the bottom. Welding the panel to this straightens it nicely and makes thgat area bombproof. You may find that when using full 2" crossmembers the rear factory stamped steel crossmember sits above the frame rails. Since I save big truck mudflaps and rubber conveyor belting I always come up with something that'll tuck under there to raise it up a bit. I like to mechanically repair my trucks and make them solid and safe while they appear unrestored. This tonner in the pics was built from numerous green jailbar trucks I had accumulated for parts, and is intentionally a beater, so I used a mix of weathered but sound planks gleaned from the salvaged wood side of my business. No varnished red oak and stainless strips spoken here. Fortunately I've had friends drop off black locust logs for me to mill and I squirrel away any 5' cuttoffs for those wood crossmembers when I can. Hope this helps! There is probably more shots and details of this truck and it's bed on my thread here called 'Winter without a project?'

GB...You are the man! Exactly what I was looking for and what I was envisioning as well. What type of bolts are used to fasten the crossmembers to the frame?

 

[NCSUDucker]

The 3/4 and tonner bed is basically the same from 38 to 52. There is a nice thread over on the Ford Truck Enthusiast site of a complete restoration on an F-2. There are lots of pictures in that thread including at least one showing the cross members, post here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1608411-1950-f-2-restoration-thread-19.html#post19702293.
As others have stated those among us who are less talented at woodworking can purchase from Bruce Horkey, link here: https://horkeyswoodandparts.com/page29.php#woodcross. Given your woodworking capability you won't need to do that, but the picture might help.

I have saved a few pictures of original 3/4 / tonner and F-2 / F-3 beds with good condition original appearing bed wood, notice the welting along the edge of the bed wood between the outer board and the bed side.

Appreciate the link to the thread, some very nice visuals there. I didn't catch the welting before but makes since. Assuming just the 1/8" welting available from early ford store and the like?

 

[petehoovie]

The 3/4 and tonner bed is basically the same from 38 to 52. There is a nice thread over on the Ford Truck Enthusiast site of a complete restoration on an F-2. There are lots of pictures in that thread including at least one showing the cross members, post here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1608411-1950-f-2-restoration-thread-19.html#post19702293.
As others have stated those among us who are less talented at woodworking can purchase from Bruce Horkey, link here: https://horkeyswoodandparts.com/page29.php#woodcross. Given your woodworking capability you won't need to do that, but the picture might help.

I have saved a few pictures of original 3/4 / tonner and F-2 / F-3 beds with good condition original appearing bed wood, notice the welting along the edge of the bed wood between the outer board and the bed side.

 

[expavr]

Attached are photos of the wood X Members of my 40 Tonner. All original except the front one that had to be fabricated due to extensive dry rot. The original wood was primed with red paint (Red Lead?) and then painted the body color. I primed and painted them Black.