oil bath conversion

GLAmes said:
Has anyone actually done a pair of comparison oil samples or is that just speculation?
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Actually I did, for mine. I have an original oil bath and the one I converted to a (paper) K&N. then drove the car over the same road, same speeds, and I found that the one with the K&N in it, gave me better performance. That could just be me or just my car.
 

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I found that the one with the K&N in it, gave me better performance.
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You're correct. The filter is less restrictive and hopefully will catch particulates a normal filter media will catch using an oil film on the filter media. That is why it needs to be serviced on a regular basis (clean and oil).

An oil bath filter assy diverts air intake flow so as to have heavy particulate fall out of suspension and be caught/absorbed by the oil bath.

The problem with a K&N type is on an EFI, the oil may foul the MAF SENSOR or leave an oily buildup on the intake tract and throttle body.

The only way I know to compare air flow/intake is to put each style ACL on a carb and flow bench.

Same with a HP OIL FILTER. The filtering media is less restrictive to allow full oil pressure and flow. The oil filter on a HP engine is changed much more frequently according to it's build.

Air coming into the oil bath air cleaner's inlet is forced vertically down toward the oil reservoir. Once the air reaches the oil reservoir at the bottom, it changes direction rapidly and is then forced back up to the engine's intake system. It is the rapid change of direction in the air mass that cleans the air--while the air has no problem making such an abrupt change in direction, the sluggish dirt particles carried in it cannot change direction as quickly and end up being trapped in the oil reservoir.

INFO SOURCE - https://itstillruns.com/oil-bath-air-breather-works-5591461.html
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So you see how it interferes with proper airflow for a modern engine (IMO).
 
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Merc Cruzer said:
Actually I did, for mine. I have an original oil bath and the one I converted to a (paper) K&N. then drove the car over the same road, same speeds, and I found that the one with the K&N in it, gave me better performance. That could just be me or just my car.
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Actually I was talking about oil analysis and the measure of silicon in the oil.

I belong to a diesel engine forum where the theory came up that paper filters are better than oiled cloth filters. My Dodge/Cummins is on a 30,000 mile oil drain schedule. I sample every 15,000 miles. My silicon PPM count is lower than any paper filter sample that has been posted, and they are all less than 10,000 mile samples. It is true that some oiled filters contaminate MAF sensors and so on. They are those whose owners believe if a little oil is good, more is better. If I over oil mine, which I did once, the residue shows up on the intake blades of my turbocharger.

I doubt that anyone of us drives their classic enough to even consider extended drain cycles and it is highly unlikely that there are many, if any, analysis data sheets. I, for one, modified my air cleaner to accept a paper filter. I do plan to send in a sample after I've put some miles on the engine. My focus is wear metals, water and coolant.
 
And while still in b!tching mode - :p

Hope she never hiccups or backfires as the engine will most likely get an oil bath and if used on a HP engine, WOT is going to suck on the actual ACL oil level.

If you read the SERVICE DECAL/SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS closely, it tells you to check the oil level frequently as not all suspended oil in the element drains back into the sump. One reason INSTR call for different weight oils for different outside ambient temperatures.

How long would you have to soak the actual filtering section to actually have it come clean (if it ever does)? How long to allow it to air-dry before re-installing?

Few liken this to a SPIN-ON OIL FILTER upgrade.
 
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