Repairing '39 Deluxe Coupe

kensesc

Junior Member
I have started repairing a 1939 Deluxe Coupe. It was semi-restored about 50 years ago and driven for a couple of years. Then it was parked in various garages and warehouses for the next 45+ years and not run. When I bought it, the wheels would roll and the engine wouldn't turn over. I have already greased the wheel bearings and fixed the brakes, so the wheels will now roll. I am presently working on the engine. I have disassembled the engine and the the major parts are at the machine shop waiting to be worked on. Most everything appears original, except the valve guide retainers have been swapped out, and apparently the carburetor, or maybe just the bottom throat connection, has been replaced. There is no throttle control available for connection to the dash throttle controller. Obviously I have a few questions:

1. Carburetor: The markings are: "Ford USA", "94". The base connection has: "45", "8BA", "1915". Should I just use this carburetor and connector and not try to reconnect the dash throttle linkage or find a correct style carburetor.
2. The water pumps are at the machine shop getting cleaned. One of the water pumps will not turn. Is it better to get a new pump or two or rebuild the existing pump(s)?
3. The wiring harness at the dash and engine bay is in pretty rough shape and I would like to replace it. Is this all one harness or are there several harnesses involved?

I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions. I'm just a little slow working on things. Thanks for all the great information on this forum.
 
You have a carb for a 49 - 53 engine. One marked 91-99 is correct for your engine. I have them if you need one. I'd get new pumps. There are several sections of harness you will need.
 
Welcome to the Fordbarn. Not sure if you are a member of the Early Ford V-8 Club or not. If not I recommend you join and you will get the V-8 Times magazine. All the major V-8 parts vendors advertise in the magazine. www.earlyfordv8.org. Also you might consider getting the V-8 Club's 38-39 Ford book. The club's bookstore is temporarily closed right now, but many of the major parts vendors carry the club books. Sound like you have a great project.
 
KEN: Get your pumps rebuilt by Skip Haney on Fordbarn. He installs new bearings, seals and impellors. Well worth the $$$.
 
flatjack9;
Thanks for the reply. Do your carburetors have the correct base for my model? How much do you want for one?
 
19Fordy;
I'm waiting to get the pumps back from getting cleaned. I'll have to see if there is enough to rebuild or if they will have to be replaced.
 
replacing the wiring harness is not a hard job made easier by the removal of the front seat. leave it out until you have everything under the dash sorted as you probaly will need to replace a gage or two.
 
I never found any thermostats in the cooling system. I assume they are supposed to be in the hoses at the radiator. How are they held in place?
Ken
 
In the hoses, yes, but on the head side. If you have the stock type hoses the ends are flared out and will hold the thermostats in place. If you do not have those hoses you have to get a little creative to keep them from traveling up the hoses.

Stating your motor has an 8BA series Holley 94 i'm curious what year flathead is in your 39. Can you post pics? It was not uncommon to swap later flatheads into earlier cars.
 
X2 on sending your water pumps to Skip.

SOME of you well-meaning folks continue to forget that these questions usually originate from NEW members who likely don't have a clue who a "SKIP" is, nor do they have a clue of how to contact said SKIP, for instance. We need to be proactive at making contact info for folks like SKIP (or whomever) when we suggest their services.

Coop

SKIP HANEY - Contact

29436 Taralane Drive
Punta Gorda FL 33982
941 505 9085

skip@fordsrus.com


.
 
Last edited:
Zax40, Thanks for the information. As for the engine, Inever found any identification marks on it. It is at the machine shop now, so I can't check anything. Hopefully attached is a picture of the engine with the heads removed. The bore of the pistons is 3.110"
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240130_142405501_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20240130_142405501_HDR.jpg
    73.2 KB · Views: 317
Zax40, Thanks for the information. As for the engine, Inever found any identification marks on it. It is at the machine shop now, so I can't check anything. Hopefully attached is a picture of the engine with the heads removed. The bore of the pistons is 3.110"
546246
 
I think I have the original air cleaner.? Can the air cleaner top be cleaned? Is there anything under the perforated cover?

What about the filter itself? Can the media between the cages be replaced, and if so, with what?

How can the lower can of the air filter be cleaned? I don't want to open the sealed can.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240717_134840416.jpg
    IMG_20240717_134840416.jpg
    45.4 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_20240717_135004803.jpg
    IMG_20240717_135004803.jpg
    49.5 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_20240717_135010445.jpg
    IMG_20240717_135010445.jpg
    54.5 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_20240717_135019819.jpg
    IMG_20240717_135019819.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 15
Is the distributer a "normal" lookin thing, vertical at the front?, or the diving helmet lookin thing sticking out the front of the camshaft?
 
If you go to Mac VanPelt web site he has pictures of the various engines for ID. To me your engine appears to be correct for 39.
Don't take the air cleaner apart any further than what you already have. Can be cleaned in Kerosene. The screen, with the square holes, and the metal element are sold as replacements if needed. The bottom of the filter should have a 78-xxxx part number stamped if so it's correct for 39.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

Yes, I have the "crab-type" distributor.

There is a number stamped on the bottom of the filter. It is 78-96004, so I guess it is correct. I'll clean what I can get to and replace the filter media.
 
I have another question. How are the floor boards supposed to be attached to the chassis? I have several types of bolts and screws holding the floor boards in place now. Just wondering what was the correct method? Seems like it should be bolts with countersunk heads.
 
Crab dizzy should be late 40's, however they will interchange with timing cover. Is there a large raised "59" on top the bell housing?
 
Back
Top