Adjusting timing

There are lots of different procedures to set timing, but every one of them involves manually bringing the #1 piston to a designated position (almost always TDC). That's how you set timing on virtually every internal combustion engine.
 
The starter turns too fast so the only other way besides the hand crank would be to lift a rear tire off the ground and turn the whole drive system while in low. The hand crank is much easier plus a person has to really get a feel for the dimple on the cam gear. It's best to take all the plugs out and turn the front cylinder till it's blowing compression then carefully feel for the dimple with the timing pin. The dimple is shallow so it can be challenging to feel it.
 
One of these helps,
 

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The procedure for setting the timing in a Model A is so simple I can't understand why people look for new ways to complicate it. Rer 239, I apologize if maybe you have some physical limitation that prevents you from hand cranking the engine, but if you can turn the steering wheel while driving, you should be able to crank the engine.
 
Finally got it. Had to turn it over 3 times before I got it ti stop in the right place
Thanks
Dick
 
Finally got it. Had to turn it over 3 times before I got it to stop in the right place
Thanks
Dick

Dick, I mark my timing mark so I don't have to 'hunt' the next time.

544121
 

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Two things: You can use a light weight spring to hold the plunger in while you turn the engine over. Also, you can use the fan blade to turn the engine over by pushing in on the part of the fan belt that is not on the tension side. That way you can back the engine if you overshoot the pin dropping in. The effort to turn the engine drops off as you approach top dead center.
 
As we we seem to be moving on to finding TDC here's my preferred method: soapy water and slackened no 1 plug ( slackening the others as well makes turning easier ) and watch the bubble!
 

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Finally got it. Had to turn it over 3 times before I got it ti stop in the right place
Thanks
Dick

Only three times... you did good!

Another method would be to leave it in third gear and roll the car forward to find the dimple in the cam gear.
 
Dick, I mark my timing mark so I don't have to 'hunt' the next time.

544121


How do you like that balancer, and belt? I have a pressurized center main, the whole nine-yards has been balanced all the way back to the pressure plate. Do you think it will make your engine live longer?
 
How do you like that balancer, and belt? I have a pressurized center main, the whole nine-yards has been balanced all the way back to the pressure plate. Do you think it will make your engine live longer?

Gene, I like the idea of a harmonic balancer, but of course I have no proof that my engine will live longer. It does seem to run smoother? My engine was balanced when rebuilt, but I don't have counter weights.

The segmented belt was used initially because with the harmonic balancer the clearance between the crossmember was smaller and I could not get a fan belt on easily (I have since for a belt I can get on.. The segmented belt has other advantages also. If, for instance, I loose a water pump or generator while on tour, the segmented belt can easily be shortened. Say I lose a bearing in my generator, I can shorten the belt to run just the water pump. Thankfully I have not tested this yet, but the option is there.

I have been using segmented belts on my table saw and such and it does reduce vibration.
 
Thank you Y-Blockhead. I am happy to accept your thoughts. Sometimes technical data is good, some times it just confuses the issue.

BTW, my crankshaft is counterweighted and balanced. Plus my flywheel is a 30 pounder.

I am seriously considering the balancer, because I have about 1,200 miles on my new engine, and I want the thing to outlive me.
 
Gene, a little more info in the Balancer.

My thought when I got it was newer engines mostly had Harmonic Balancers. I figured the manufacturers would install if they felt it was not a good thing... Extra $$$.

Also, my engine had a slight leak at the front crank seal the balancer has a reverse scroll on the snout and it 'cured' the leak. It has been on my car for ~4 years with no issues.

You can't use the hand crank and the ratchet nut will not fit.


544167
 

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