42 Ford Sedan Radius Rod

edhd58

edhd58

Well-known member
will a radius ball socket from a A work on my 42 sedan ..

i cant find one for my car ..

I'm playing with the camber and want to lower thr rear of the front wishbone by lowering the ball end ..

The rear of my car is 6 inches higher than the front ,, but I like the stance and want to keep that
 
Since the rear of your car sits quite high be sure to frequently check your differential fluid level as it will tend to run down the inside of your torque tube and dissolve the rubber casing surrounding the torque tube center bearing, if your car has one. Not good. Keep an eye on it.
(That's what I discovered on my 40 with a rake.) Had to install special seal made by a fellow in TX.
 

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19Fordy said:
Since the rear of your car sits quite high be sure to frequently check your differential fluid level as it will tend to run down the inside of your torque tube and dissolve the rubber casing surrounding the torque tube center bearing, if your car has one. Not good. Keep an eye on it.
(That's what I discovered on my 40 with a rake.) Had to install special seal made by a fellow in TX.
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1942deluxe said:
Ed, the P/N for the stock one is 11A-3446 and there is also a NOS one Ebay if that helps.
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that number is for the bushing ..

I am wanting another half to the cup ..

I am wanting to jerry rig the bushing end of the radius rod down approx 1-1/2 inches from standard .. to see is more positive camber helps my darting problem ...

I know i can lengthen the shackles and lower it that way .. but i want to keep the stance it has..
 

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The GREEN BIBLE shows that front radius ball cap B-4440 fits 1932-40 Passenger.

Also shows that front radius ball cap 11A-3440 fits 1941 to 48.

Could you custom fabricate the radius rod cap you desire using 2 of the above caps?
 
Could you custom fabricate the radius rod cap you desire using 2 of the above caps?

That was / is my intention ... use one on top one on bottom of the ball and space it all down so teh center of it is approx 1-1/2 inch below normal
 
edhd58 said:
that number is for the bushing ..

I am wanting another half to the cup ..

I am wanting to jerry rig the bushing end of the radius rod down approx 1-1/2 inches from standard .. to see is more positive camber helps my darting problem ...

I know i can lengthen the shackles and lower it that way .. but i want to keep the stance it has..
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537407
 
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Let's not forget that these have been available from Michael at 3rd Gen in McMinville, Tennessee for two months now.

Coop


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Thanks V-8 for posting that info. about the new ball cap availability. I knew I saw it somewhere but, couldn't remember where. Glad you're paying attention.
 
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Here's Michael Driskell's contact info!


3rd Gen Automotive - Contact

Michael Driskell (Ask for Michael on phone)

Third Gen Automotive
Phone: 844-327-5988
Url: thirdgenauto.com
2600 Old Nashville Hwy
McMinnville, TN 37110
 
edhd58 said:
that number is for the bushing ..

I am wanting another half to the cup ..

I am wanting to jerry rig the bushing end of the radius rod down approx 1-1/2 inches from standard .. to see is more positive camber helps my darting problem ...

I know i can lengthen the shackles and lower it that way .. but i want to keep the stance it has..
Click to expand...

Just to get things straight, you are playing with CASTER, not camber and a degree or 2 that you will achieve by what you want to do will not likely make any difference. You have other problems. Look for loose parts like king pin bushings, spring shackle bushings, tie rod and drag link ends, worn steering box parts, loose spring U-bolts and front end alignment.
Longer shackles will make things worse.

You can Mickey Mouse together what you are trying to do with a short piece of 2 by 4 and some fence wire. Stay away from traffic for testing.
 
Pete said:
Just to get things straight, you are playing with CASTER, not camber and a degree or 2 that you will achieve by what you want to do will not likely make any difference. You have other problems. Look for loose parts like king pin bushings, spring shackle bushings, tie rod and drag link ends, worn steering box parts, loose spring U-bolts and front end alignment.
Longer shackles will make things worse.

You can Mickey Mouse together what you are trying to do with a short piece of 2 by 4 and some fence wire. Stay away from traffic for testing.
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Pete .. you are correct .. I meant caster not camber .. i keep inserting the wrong word every time i discuss this .. I know what i mean but say the wrong thing .. EVERYTHING in the front end is new except the steering box .. and it is in good shape with very little free play at center ..

About looking for something loose .. that was one of the first things I checked ... because Ive had the entire front end apart replacing everything that moves.

As far as a 2x4 and wiring it up .. yes i could .. but it will only cost a few dollars to do what i'm talking about doing .. AND .. I'll feel a lot safer with everything bolted in place ..

quote "and a degree or 2 that you will achieve by what you want to do will not likely make any difference." ... I'm sorry but I dont understand what youre saying ..
are you saying all I will accomplish doing what i'm talking about doing will only alter the caster a degree or two and THAT will not help anything ?
 
The front tires look rather big. Maybe they are causing the darting. Extra scrub. Double-check your toe in too.
 
edhd58 said:
are you saying all I will accomplish doing what i'm talking about doing will only alter the caster a degree or two and THAT will not help anything ?
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That is right. Unless something has been modified, stock caster is around 5 degrees and that is all you need for normal street driving.

As far out as it sounds, check around the center area of the front cross member for cracks. That could cause your problem.
 
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