Tudor seat pivot pin

M2M

M2M

Well-known member
The Tudor seat pivot pins the suppliers sell are not original, the are drilled for a cotter pin, see below image.

I have original pins but I'm missing the fasteners; where can I buy fasteners that work and are easy to install and remove? They don't have to be exact copies of originals...I just don't like cotter pins for this, plus the original pins don't have holes.

A_47903_S.jpg
 
Last edited:
My pivot pins have holes and cotter pins. They sure look original to me but I'm no expert. If the originals had no holes how are they kept in place?
 
Of the four pins on my Tudor, three are repops and use cotter pins whie the fourth is original and uses an "E" clip.
 
I had to lengthen my drilled ones by welding, then cutting off and using a lathe to turn the groove for a snap ring and beveled the end a bit. Then I simply wrapped a nail around them to get the ID close to the groove, and cut off the nail to fit. Squeezed with pliers to add a bit of tension. I don’t think it needs to have much spring tension to stay in the groove. Hope that makes sense. So yeah it’s a cosmetic thing
 
The problem is not finding the correct pins, but rather the wire form circle clips. They tend to distort when removed.
 
I am using "hair pin" spring clips instead of cotter pins or the "C" type wire retainers.


This is not original but I can pull the hair pins and remove the pivot pins and slide the seat to the rear get the seats out of the way when working in the area under the floor boards.


Actually, instead of using the stock length pivot pin, I made some longer ones with a rounded point that makes it very easy to re-install. I drilled the "cotter pin hole" in the same relative place as the shorter pivot pins.


This makes life a lot simpler.


Chris W.
 
The original type clips shouldn't be hard to make, find a coil spring the proper size and cut it w/a disk grinder.
 
I use a clevis pin with a "hair pin" cotter pin to keep it in place. It is very easy to pull the hair pin and remove the clevis pin and slide the seats back onto the rear floor. This is especially handy when removing the floorboards to change the battery or do other maintenance in this area.

Chris W.
 
My Tudor is far from concourse, so I just used a bolt and nyloc. The shank of the bolt is long enough to go through both sides of the floor mount, and I have cut the length of the threads so I don't have to turn the nut heaps to fit. But removing seats is not a common thing for me, so the bolt and nut works well.
 
Shoot I have bolts through mine, with the nuts that have that little nylon locking ring. You kinda have to be looking for them, and no one has even mentioned them to me. I'm a tall guy (38" inseam is the shortest I can wear) so I have the offset seat stands too.

I always thought a thin flat washer would do those pins a world of good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top