King Seely gas gauge coupler orientation

[Lon Jackson]

I purchase a KS Repair kit some time back. I am now at the point of installation, and I want to make sure I do it right.



Gauge tube coupler tube nut tube
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I am not sure which direction the coupler should be in the assembly of the connection.


The coupler looks like a cone with a short tube attached. Should the pointy end of the cone go towards the nut or towards the gauge?

 

[DavidG]

The tapered end of the fitting fits into the hex tube on the back of the gauge and is held in place on that tube with the recessed brass nut. The air line is soldered to the top of the fitting. Be sure and place the nut on the tubing before you solder the tubing end to the top of the fitting.

 

[Lon Jackson]

Thanks for the information.

My old connector was broken off with part still in the top of the hex tube. Do you know if this is a tapered hole? I guess I will have to drill it out. Any idea what the hole size should be? I am guessing just slightly bigger than the pointy end of the cone.

 

[deuce lover]

Here are pics of a gauge I restored for a member here. The cone shaped fitting in your gauge hex is just stuck ,carefully wiggle it and it should come off. Run a thread chaser on the threads of the hex.Its 5/16 X24. Last pic shows the short piece (example) of the line and how the fittings are.I posted a tutorial many months ago in detail on redoing these gauges.

 

[Lon Jackson]

Thanks Again
The picks are very helpful.

I assume the capillary tube is only inserted to the end of cone and then soldered on the other end.

Your picture of the open Hex tube isn't what I had expected. I would have thought it would have been open, possibly with the calibration wires visible????

 

[petehoovie]

Thanks Again
The picks are very helpful.

I assume the capillary tube is only inserted to the end of cone and then soldered on the other end.

Your picture of the open Hex tube isn't what I had expected. I would have thought it would have been open, possibly with the calibration wires visible????

 

[deuce lover]

Thanks Again
The picks are very helpful.

I assume the capillary tube is only inserted to the end of cone and then soldered on the other end.

Your picture of the open Hex tube isn't what I had expected. I would have thought it would have been open, possibly with the calibration wires visible????

Here is the tutorial which will explain what needs to be done in many cases
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329034

 

[deuce lover]

Thanks Again
The picks are very helpful.

I assume the capillary tube is only inserted to the end of cone and then soldered on the other end.

Your picture of the open Hex tube isn't what I had expected. I would have thought it would have been open, possibly with the calibration wires visible????

Pics of the cone fitting soldered to line,then hex nut

 

[petehoovie]

Pics of the cone fitting soldered to line,then hex nut

 

[JimG]

Make sure you don't overtighten the ferule and blow the back out of it like I did. It's only brass.

 

[Lon Jackson]

I will have to drill out the top of my hex tube as my old cone was broken off flush with the top.

 

[Lon Jackson]

See Pics

 

[petehoovie]

I will have to drill out the top of my hex tube as my old cone was broken off flush with the top.
[IMG][/QUOTE]
[IMG]https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/532847/

 

[deuce lover]

It doesn't appear to be a Ford gauge from your pic.I suggest that you thread a nut on those threads to strengthen the threaded portion before you drill out that cone.

 

[Lon Jackson]

I was successful in drilling out the old cone, only to find the hex tube clogged with dried remnants of the old fluid. I was able to chip out most of it from hex tube and glass tube with wire and pipe cleaner. The very small copper tube connecting the hex tube to the glass tube is also plugged. anyone know of a solvent that I could pour into the glass and hex tubes that would dissolve the blockage in the copper tube???

 

[deuce lover]

Click on the link I included in post 7.It explains about clearing the line and what you can use.

 

[Lon Jackson]

I was able to clean out all the lines. I found that the copper tube from the glass wasn't soldered properly to the hex tube because it was too short. Probably broken off in a previous attempt to repair. I spliced in a piece of copper tube and resoldered. I checked all the lines to be open and no leaks at all connections. With good airflow and no leaks I added KS fluid to hex tube up to the empty line on the gauge. I reassembled everything into dash and hooked up air supply line from the tank. All looked good. I added 5 gallon of gas to my previously drained tank. Gauge still reading empty (no surprise). I started engine and let it run 15 minutes at fast idle. Sometime during this period the fluid in the glass disappeared. It did not go out the top of the glass, so I assume a vacuum was created somehow in the air supply tube from the tank. I removed the gas tank cap which did nothing (the tank is vented anyway). I let it set overnight and there was no change to the level in the glass tube. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? The tank sending unit had previously been removed, cleaned and lines verified clear and open.

 

[deuce lover]

You need to drive the car to get the gauge to function. Once it works it should maintain the correct level if calibrated .If as the car sits for days and fluid goes down the seal is not good at the air line connection.I always dab a bit of Hylomar blue on the cone of the fitting before assembly which insures a good seal. Non drying Permatex also works..I also do that on the fitting at the fuel tank.The pic of the instrument panel is of a 33 I owned and the fluid always maintained to what the level of gas was in the tank.

 

[petehoovie]

You need to drive the car to get the gauge to function. Once it works it should maintain the correct level if calibrated .If as the car sits for days and fluid goes down the seal is not good at the air line connection.I always dab a bit of Hylomar blue on the cone of the fitting before assembly which insures a good seal. Non drying Permatex also works..I also do that on the fitting at the fuel tank.The pic of the instrument panel is of a 33 I owned and the fluid always maintained to what the level of gas was in the tank.