New seal for PS ram.

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I will have to try to check mine (that should be fun!) to see if it was Bendix:

I gave him a call and he hasn't worked on one from 53' or 54'. I sent him pictures to see if he has the parts.

Thanks for the lead.

You are welcome. The design was changed slightly in 1961 and they seem to specialize in MUSTANGS and such.

But he does have some good info on his site.

Always wondered if he did early. Seems to me to one heck of a market (early) if it is clean and honest work.
 

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Last night I checked the cookie sheet under the ram. About a third of the sheet was covered with fresh fluid. This is just from sitting, not even in operation. So being that it leaks that bad, I've ordered a new one from Rockauto.

Might make a gasket for the reservoir cover in the meantime as well, it just leaks too much. I turn a corner and fluid leaks out.

Other than that, I'm happy with how well it works, wouldn't go back to manual at all. These leaks are no big deal and I know how to fix them.
 
Last night I checked the cookie sheet under the ram. About a third of the sheet was covered with fresh fluid. This is just from sitting, not even in operation. So being that it leaks that bad, I've ordered a new one from Rockauto.

Might make a gasket for the reservoir cover in the meantime as well, it just leaks too much.

Check the take-off to see if FORD or aftermarket (toss).

Why not a new bowl gasket with the order?
 
Last night I checked the cookie sheet under the ram. About a third of the sheet was covered with fresh fluid. This is just from sitting, not even in operation. So being that it leaks that bad, I've ordered a new one from Rockauto.

Might make a gasket for the reservoir cover in the meantime as well, it just leaks too much. I turn a corner and fluid leaks out.

Other than that, I'm happy with how well it works, wouldn't go back to manual at all. These leaks are no big deal and I know how to fix them.

Just curious, where did you get the seals for your control valve? Did all the fluid on the cookie sheet come from the control valve or the ram?

And by the way Merry Christmas to all involved with this post along with the readers too. Where would we be without our readers!
 
They don't have a listing for that gasket:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1954,crestline,3.9l+239cid+v8,1338825,steering

Check out the price of a pump if you don't have a core!

I bought the seals from a local seal company, was 45 bucks for the two seals. The leak is only from the ram, as the sheet is only placed under that side. The control valve is not leaking from what I can tell, only has some fluid on it that came down the hoses from the reservoir leak.
 
Still think you could buy a nice sheet of cork and cut a new bowl gasket for the pump cover yourself. As to the ram, either a new one or have it rebuilt, which ever cost is better.
 
Yes, absolutely and I may just have some cork in the garage.

Also want to wish this group a Merry Christmas, only a few days away! I totally appreciate the support here, including the quick responses which really help. Looking forward to what the new year brings!
 
Looks like I stopped the reservoir cover leak, at least for now.

Pulled the cover off, and removed the gasket. I have a bunch of rubber/cork material so I was prepared to cut a new one. Noticed a nice groove worn into the gasket, or should I say compressed into the gasket on one side. Thought, hmm, what if I flipped it over and reinstalled it?

Well, I can't believe it but I drove it all over the neighborhood, hills, corners you name it and it has not leaked yet! It used to leak just driving in my yard.

New life to an old gasket, it was in great condition other than the groove. No cracks, still very supple. I love these cars. Try that on something modern haha.

Also, I tweaked the alignment and after a few test drives/adjustments I have it going straight down the road, no pulling hard left anymore. My uncle taught me a trick over 30 years ago to get your alignment relatively close to spec. It's very difficult to describe in words, I call it the "Eyeball Alignment".

For the following procedure, all four tires have to be on the ground, steering wheel centered and ideally held still (bungee cord etc). A four post hoist is best, you can do it on a flat shop floor though.

You look along the inside edge of the front tire towards the back tire on the same side of the car. If you visually line up the front inside edge of the front tire with the back inside edge of the front tire, you should just see a slight bit of the back tire, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inches of the back tire. That means you are towed in. Do the same on the other side. You can also easily tell if a tire is towed out and make the appropriate adjustment to the tie rods. Not sure how else to explain this. Years ago I did an F150 like this and then took it to the alignment shop. Didn't tell them what I did other than changing the tie rod ends. Guy said it was the easiest alignment they ever did, he moved the adjuster about 10 degrees to get it perfect.

Another bonus of the "alignment" is that the return to center is even better than before. I'm still scheduled to do a proper alignment at my buddies shop after Christmas, but for now I don't feel bad driving it around.

We are having a brown Christmas here in Alberta, so I can still drive the car anywhere, roads are totally dry.
 
Just curious, was your gasket rubber or cork?

Glad to see the car is cooperating with you. It makes life so much nicer when you can get a few success along the way.

It has been nice here in Conifer, Colorado, but it is supposed to start snowing in the next few hours and all day tomorrow. So it will be a white Christmas again.
 
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I think I finally figured out why some cylinders have the external balance tube and others (not aftermarket) don't.

There was a design change on the 1957 FORD, the earlier cyl had the balance tube and the later cyl (not aftermarket) did not.
 

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It appears that my power steering cylinder, with the tube, mounted externally, was originally made by Lares Corporation, is still available at O'Reillys.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...erey?q=Lares+powering+steering+cylinder&pos=0

$636.99 Each + Refundable Core $500.00
Just checked with my local O'Rilley's and they confirmed they can not order it. I am shocked :)

Evidently Lares has replaced the original cylinder with part # 10031 - available at Advanced Auto Parts.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...05-P?vehicleIdSearch=47563&isAllVehicle=false




Also, Mac's used to do an exchange but now you have to send in your cylinder and get it back rebuilt 3-4 weeks later, for just $917.99

https://www.macsautoparts.com/1953-...ng-cylinder-ford-mercury-only-49-27562-1.html
 
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It appears that my power steering cylinder, with the tube, mounted externally, was originally made by Lares Corporation, is still available at O'Reillys.

LARES is a re-manufacturer. They do quality work and is why a re-man is so expensive (your core).

Detailed Description

Power Steering Power Cylinder
;

* Power Steering Cylinders are thoroughly cleaned and exterior surfaces reconditioned for like-new look.

* Each component is carefully inspected and replaced if not to OE tolerances.

* All units have new chrome shafts.

* All seals and O-rings are replaced with OE equivalent parts.

* Each unit is tested to insure OE performance.

* Painted with a high quality paint.

* All units are carefully packaged to insure safe arrival at your door.

* Re-manufactured in the USA.

A new shaft ($$$) and re-maned here are two big reasons for the price tag.

https://www.larescorp.com/

https://catalog.larescorp.com/part/10031/

You get what you pay for.
 
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LARES is a re-manufacturer.

Thanks, didn't know that.

I couldn't find a listing for one made by Bendix, with that design.

I crawled under the car last evening to see if I could find any markings on my cylinder and no luck. Maybe someone has one, not in the car.
 
LARES is a re-manufacturer.

Thanks, didn't know that.

You're OK ...

I couldn't find a listing for one made by Bendix, with that design.

I crawled under the car last evening to see if I could find any markings on my cylinder and no luck. Maybe someone has one, not in the car.

Most likely over the years, the original take-offs were trashed and an aftermarket installed. THANX for re-builders such as this that can save a good core. One would have to search for a NOS or take-off.

It all depends how one wants to use the car, whether a driver, restoration or show car.

Me? I am OCD (correct alphabetical order of OCD). It has to be perfect or look perfect, even a driver.
 
My gasket was pure rubber. Took the wife out last night driving around looking at Christmas lights, no issues with the steering other than a bit of pump noise turning at an idle.

When I swap out the ram, I'm going to switch to ATF instead of PS fluid, have had better luck with that in the past for noise.

I also don't recall any numbers on the ram cylinder when I cleaned and repainted it. I noticed in the rockauto description of the cylinder I ordered, they state that it is a new unit. Interesting as I also thought Lares was only a rebuilder.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11541057&cc=1338825&pt=7372&jsn=903
 
My gasket was pure rubber. Took the wife out last night driving around looking at Christmas lights, no issues with the steering other than a bit of pump noise turning at an idle.

Your reservoir gasket?

If the pump is noisy it is most likely air ingestion in the fluid. Raise the front of the car and while the engine is idling, turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop (not holding against the stops) and the air should be bled out after a few turns. If not, there are further methods (if there is no air leakage into the system).

When I swap out the ram, I'm going to switch to ATF instead of PS fluid, have had better luck with that in the past for noise.

CORRECT. Remember, FORD TYPE F was not introduced until the 1968 model run so look for TYPE A (or modern upgrade replacement - usually DEXRON II). Do not buy cheap fluid as it will bite you.

I also don't recall any numbers on the ram cylinder when I cleaned and repainted it. I noticed in the rockauto description of the cylinder I ordered, they state that it is a new unit. Interesting as I also thought Lares was only a rebuilder.

No, they are also a vendor. Now be advised that the new units advertised are imports.

Did your cylinder have a balance tube?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11541057&cc=1338825&pt=7372&jsn=903
 
... When I swap out the ram, I'm going to switch to ATF instead of PS fluid, have had better luck with that in the past for noise. ...
YES, the original power steering system was designed to work with ATF,
Not newer (incompatible?) fluids made for modern power steering.
 
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